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87k miles, recent major tune up to include wires and coil, Bosch III injectors, CTS, waterpump. Has Longtubes, highflow cats, and flowmasters. Fuel pressure is 50psi at idle (stock pump, new sock and vibe dampner). Idle is 900-950 depending on how you look at the needle when warm.
I did search and I have a feeling the Idle Air Valve is probably the culprit.
Anyone agree or should I look elsewhere?
Rick
Simplest thing to do first is to remove the IAC and clean it (use Gumout, but not Carb cleaner) and then reset the IAC using the ALDL paper clip method. It is in the FSM but if you do not have that I think there is a sticky or use the forum search for IAC reset. All this is free before you start throwing parts at it.
Simplest thing to do first is to remove the IAC and clean it (use Gumout, but not Carb cleaner) and then reset the IAC using the ALDL paper clip method. It is in the FSM but if you do not have that I think there is a sticky or use the forum search for IAC reset. All this is free before you start throwing parts at it.
Cleaned it already, reset already (no codes anyway)
Have FSM
What kind of vacuum do you have at idle?
How did that compression test work out?
Still have postive pressure out of the dipstick tube at idle?
Has the throttle body stop screw "cap" been removed from the TB?
Running a 22lb injector?
Still runing a stock tune?
Last edited by engle1147; Dec 23, 2011 at 11:29 AM.
Your IAC is probably working if it will idle warm. Quick Test is to turn it off and restart. Idle should be higher, but return to the previous number within a couple of seconds. That verifies that the ECM is capable of moving the Pintle to allow in a bit more air for a quick restart.
You need to know what the ECM is seeing from the Coolant Temp Sensor. You've replaced it, so you may have a wiring or ECM problem. Specs are an Actual Idle of 50+/- RPMs from Targeted in Drive. 100+/- RPMs Actual from Targeted in Park/Neutral. See what that is and the Coolant Temp Sensor Signal (which is used in place of a Choke) and you'll have a better idea as to what the problem is.
good questions....
to start off with this is still a project car which I just tagged yesterday and drove for a bit - perhaps from sitting so much it just has issues- such as old gas.
anyway.
Yes, throttle stop screw cover removed as I adjusted idle down at one time.
Haven't done comp test.
didn't have pos pressure from crankcase at idle - issue was/is some oil blowing out dipstick at high rpms. Unresolved at this point.
Injectors are stocker replacements from FIC
I read in this forum those injectors like more pressure (48-50) at idle so that is what I did. Do you think I mis-read?
I believe it to be stock tune - no info from PO on that.
Originally Posted by engle1147
Why is the fuel pressure @ 50?
My vote is your over fueling @ idle....and the IAC can't keep up with the additional air requirements to match the extra fuel.
What kind of vacuum do you have at idle?
How did that compression test work out?
Still have postive pressure out of the dipstick tube at idle?
Has the throttle body stop screw "cap" been removed from the TB?
Running a 22lb injector?
Still runing a stock tune?
Your IAC is probably working if it will idle warm. Quick Test is to turn it off and restart. Idle should be higher, but return to the previous number within a couple of seconds. That verifies that the ECM is capable of moving the Pintle to allow in a bit more air for a quick restart.
You need to know what the ECM is seeing from the Coolant Temp Sensor. You've replaced it, so you may have a wiring or ECM problem. Specs are an Actual Idle of 50+/- RPMs from Targeted in Drive. 100+/- RPMs Actual from Targeted in Park/Neutral. See what that is and the Coolant Temp Sensor Signal (which is used in place of a Choke) and you'll have a better idea as to what the problem is.
I will try that a few time today see what idle does, as well as vacumn check.
quite a few connectors have broken lock tabs on them, perhaps loose connections contributing to problems. IAC and TPS being 2 of them.
Quick update: I just started her and kept rpms at 1500 for about a minute, she kept an idle after that. albeit is was low (about 550rpm). after warm up for a bit idle improved to 850ish.
Vacum check shows a solid 18.5in - increase rpm to 2000 vac goes to 21 and then to 25 with snap close of throttle fianlly returning to 18.5 --- great results.
I think I will replace those connectors with issues and revisit this thread after a couple of tanks of gas have used.
Yes, throttle stop screw cover removed as I adjusted idle down at one time.
I read in this forum those injectors like more pressure (48-50) at idle so that is what I did. Do you think I mis-read?.
And how did you do that? You cannot simply adjust the idle down or up unless you push it out of the ECM compensation area which might give you the problem you have. Set it to 15-20 IAC counts with a scanner.
I believe you should set it back to stock pressure which is about 43 with the hose off.
Ok. Since the 24th I installed a lowering kit (PITA) and just got it aligned this morning, whole car was off.
After that I picked up the new TPS and IAC connectors I ordered from Autozone. I also filled the tank with premium. Went home and spliced the connectors in, and then reset fuel pressure to 42 psi at idle.
I will have to wait until the AM to check cold start but so far she fires right up and idles perfect at about 950 rpm. This is an improvement so far. Took a ride around the hood and low end felt better/stronger.
At this point I don't think the IAC is bad any longer.
I will have to wait until the AM to check cold start but so far she fires right up and idles perfect at about 950 rpm. This is an improvement so far. Took a ride around the hood and low end felt better/stronger.
At this point I don't think the IAC is bad any longer.
I don't like the splices. I prefer to use the scanner to see exactly what the ECM sees. That way, if there is a break somewhere or a grounding out, you see it better.
That is a little high for stock. What is the ECM command idle speed?
I don't like the splices. I prefer to use the scanner to see exactly what the ECM sees. That way, if there is a break somewhere or a grounding out, you see it better.
That is a little high for stock. What is the ECM command idle speed?
Don't have a scanner so.............
Only replacement connectors I could find had pigtails so too late not to splice ........
Only replacement connectors I could find had pigtails so too late not to splice ........
Idle speed ?
I would suggest you get one. I am not a fan of splicing into lines since you are now creating a weak spot in the line unless it can be snapped in and removed. Still, if there is a weak spot on the wire upstream, it might not reflect what the ECM sees.
The ECM will be programmed with the appropriate idle speed for the engine. In my case, the idle speed is higher but not at 950 so I question what your ECM wants the idle speed to be at. Something available on a scanner. If your ECM commands 600 and you are forcing 900, it might give other issues like what you are having.
87k miles, recent major tune up to include wires and coil, Bosch III injectors, CTS, waterpump. Has Longtubes, highflow cats, and flowmasters. Fuel pressure is 50psi at idle (stock pump, new sock and vibe dampner). Idle is 900-950 depending on how you look at the needle when warm.
I did search and I have a feeling the Idle Air Valve is probably the culprit.
Anyone agree or should I look elsewhere?
Rick
Did you switch to a synthetic 10w oil for cold situations? check your ground wire on the starter, is the starter replaced? There terrible in cold conditions
Did you switch to a synthetic 10w oil for cold situations? check your ground wire on the starter, is the starter replaced? There terrible in cold conditions
Did you switch to a synthetic 10w oil for cold situations? check your ground wire on the starter, is the starter replaced? There terrible in cold conditions
The guy lives in FL i don'tthink winter driving happens very often and has 87k miles on it. GM used very light oil to cut friction at idle for emissions.. not for it's lubrcation qualities. You should buy oil for the area and temperature ranges you will use the car. The problem I have with synthetic oil is the cost vs. any gails. Unless you use your vette as a daily driver you seldom put very many miles on it and you should change the oil based on time or mileage. Most vettes time out on things rather than have big miles on them. Yes there are exceptions to this staement as well. I changed to 20-50 dino oil and change it every 6 months or 3000 miles works fine for me and the engine is clean as can be has good oil pressure and the average day here in CT is in the middle of the viscosity range. Makes sense to me but YMMV... Personally I would be more concerned with changing the neglected coolant brake fluid trans fluid etc..
Dave