$2000-$2500 for a good short block. (not stellar...but reliable)
$1100 for TPIS porting with bigger valves. (260cfm)
fuel system optional
$1000 headers and exhaust
$1000 intake (+ or - depending on new/used)
$350 tuning
$200 Champion radiator
$1000 misc (gaskets, injectors, fasteners, etc)

For less than Cumber spent on block/heads, a street-reliable 383 can be built. (Unless you're looking for your 9th engine ) Transmission and rear ends should be seriously considered -- though driving style may determine the necessity. In my case, I started with a ZF/Dana44 platform...so I was ahead of the game. Shamdave has already done his exterior/interior IIRC. Maybe some trans/rear end work has already been done?

This point of this thread is what Shamdave can/needs to do. And, what he hasn't considered. I don't think it's fair to say he needs $16,000 to complete his project, but half of that is reason to assume.

OTOH, maybe less than that will complete the project -- depending on who he knows in the machine shop business.

 

This thread is getting to be a little much. If I was to buy a C5 Z06 for say $20000 I would have to mod it anyways because 340rwhp/340rwtq wouldnt have been enough, and if I was to buy a C6 Z06 for $40000 I would mod it as well.

Building up my C4 was a no brainer, and I have learnt quite a bit in the process.

I dont think we need to list how much are mods are to prove anything to anyone. I wont stop modding mine until it is perfect in my eyes!

I have a friend with a 07 Z06 that has dropped over $20000 in mods, and guess what his car is worth, lol. Not to mention the purchase price of $62000.

 

My numbers are real, not make believe. When setting a goal of 400rwhp, you need to be realistic about longevity or plan on rebuilding again.

 

If you think it's expensive to do it right the first time.. Wait and see what it cost the second and third and fourth time around.

I had $5200 in my heads and intake a TB alone. This was on my 85. I could have save money and bought cheaper part but speed cost. Not bragging just facts.

 

Truer words have never been spoken.

 

Gotta pay to play. To do it right costs $$$. I could have bought a house with the $$$ I have spent on my C4, but to me it's priceless. I work hard and my hobby is bracket racing. Can't put a price on what makes one happy. I'm out there pretty much every week with the guys and the smell and sound of power just can't be beat. House and cars are paid for, kid's are done with school, wife's happy (she actually comes with me to most of the races). Life is good. Willie

 

You can't put a price on happiness. There's a lot of rich people that haven't found it. My C4 puts a smile on my face even though I know I've spent too much.

 

What a nice quote , total truth !!!
Im with you guys , im part of the club !
Been a long way , 5 years now and i have spent more
than i have ever thought of ....but in the end it's the permagrin
that costs $$$$

 

I have run the TPI, MR, SR & HSR, one of the few people that have run all 4 intakes

MR or SR choice depends on gear, auto or stick , cam and compression, but for seat of the pants feel you need the following.

MR & 3:73 etc

SR and almost any gear.

Floor it and go wow at 2500 + rpm= MR unless you have 406 or more CI

Floor it from a stop = SR and peter out @ 5500-5800 RPM

Sure,, some people get different results, it depends on the variables,, gears, cam, CR etc

 

I don't understand what the base cost of the car has to do with modding it. You're almost never going to get your money out of a modified car, modify what you like. ****, my suspension was nearly as costly as my 88 was, but I'd do it all over again.

 

cost basis has to do with your goals. if you like the c4 and enjoy modding it then it's moot since you're enjoying yourself.

however if you want to autocross, run that 11.9 or maintain resale {for the near term} something like 20k for a c5z is money well spent. while it's true with enough $$ you can make a c4 perform, they just have a more mods required to achieve the same benchmark, you also will have less resale, more time invested and an older car.

i guess my point would be to visualize the end before you start. if a modded c4 that rips is a great thought to you then have at it.

if spending 6000 on the car and then investing 20k into it over the years only to sell it for 10k is a troublesome thought, then you might want to rethink your strategy.

 

I was realistic about longevity in mine. Didn't go for the highest lift or highest rpms. AFR heads (or equivalent flow) makes it fairly easy to hit 400rwhp these days. (And, the only reason I didn't was due to the use of a long-runner intake).

My shortblock with forged parts was right at $2500. Last time I checked AFR's are around $1500 for L98s. (TPIS charges about $1100 to get the same flow from ported 113's as AFR 180s). A 383 with good heads (or head porting) should land in the 400rwhp range. And, that doesn't require going above 6k rpms. Add $400 and buy the AFR's to make sure you hit the 400.

I'd be interested to see where you spent the $7800 part of your budget and why you think the budget I suggested is unreasonable. (Keep in mind you'll be explaining why my setup is going to blow up.)

Seems like there's waaaay too much pressure against the OP's plans.

 

If you're willing to wrench yourself and a thrifty fellow who monitors ebay/craigslist etc, you can get yourself some pretty good performance on the cheap just utilizing your stock short block.

Used Superram or Miniram $ 800
24lb svo injectors $ 200
Used cylinder heads $ 800 (Lots of older, but still very good cylinder heads available on the net)
New cam, lifters & springs $ 700
Used Headers $ 400
New good Torque converter $ 600
New Drag Radials $ 400
Tuning equipment or a chip from somebody $ 400
Gaskets, Fluids $ 400

Total rounded-up $ 5000

Put it all together yourself and once you get it dialed in, you have yourself a solid 11 second ride and you'll compete nicely versus most street cars. (You'll win a lot more races than you lose) As a note, I recommend you shoot for a performance number vs a dyno number.

If the motor was fine to begin with, keep fresh oil in it and it'll last for a long time. Be a fun street car.... I know this because I've done it.

 

OK

Keep in mind the OP has an 85. That means cast iron heads and a flat tappet cam. Just like what I had. Those are not going to get the power or reliability he's looking for.

He needs a different block. A 4 bolt main roller block runs at least $250. He could go 2 bolt but it won't save much. Decent machining is not cheap and not a place to cut corners. Any good machinist is not going to do this for free unless they are really good friends. I spent $1,000 on machining. That's what it takes if you want it done right.

My rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings) ran $2,050. Crank and rods are 4340. We've already exceeded your $2,500 estimate with no assembly. The rotating assembly was internal balanced by the machine shop to 1/2 gram. Makes for a smooth running and reliable engine. Vibration will tear up a motor.

You forgot the cam and entire valve train. Add up a cam, timing chain, roller lifters, retainer, pushrods, and roller rockers and you can add another $900.

If he already has a pair of 113 heads, porting might be a good option. But if they are cast iron, he needs to find used heads and have them ported. That will cost more than AFRs. And the flow will be less. And I did not spend $1,500 on the 195s. If you know the right people there are considerably better deals. You need to look at AFRs site again. 195s definitely flow more than 260 CFM.

Since he now has an internally balanced assembly you need to add a good dampener. You can go cheap or do it right. I went with ATI for $280. And don't forget a flex plate. It's a good idea to use and SFI rated one when adding this power. Add $85. The roller block requires a new oil pan (2 pc seal vs. 1 pc seal). Here's another place you can go cheap. I chose Canton for the windage tray, scraper and extra oil capacity. Oil flow is not a place to cut corners. Add another $230.

Now for all the incidentals. I doubt he'll find a machine shop locally that will meet the low cost machining goal. So add at least $250 shipping. You need bolts, gaskets, etc. Add at least $300.

You get the idea.

 

When I built my 355, I wanted something bullet-proof and "reasonable"...

My results were 425 FWHP and 530 FWTQ with the following mods:

130979 - J&E Pistons - $546.00

134-6003 - ARP Rod bolts - $45

234-5501 - ARP Main Studs - $112.00

134-3601 - ARP Head bolts - $92

JB2079 - Crower roller tappets - $197.95

73603 - Crower 1.6:1 ratio roller-rockers - $386.62

134-7101 - ARP Rocker studs - $45

74197 - Accel base plate - $425

20199-T9 - AS&M Runners - $394

X22212271-13 - Cam Dynamics Corvette Challenge cam designed for Tommy Morrison. Basically this is a ZZ9 cam with a "little" bit extra. Specs: 225/229@.050, duration 282/287, lobe separation 113 deg., lift w/1.6:1 rockers - .555/.556

We started with a 2-bolt main and put splayed 4-bolt caps in it.

With machine work and other "parts" the total came to $4771.70

The cost for the CNC work to the heads is not included in that price. My heads came with the motor, but to get them done would have been an additional $1600.

I also didn't put a road-race pan on it initially, and it cost me a complete rebuild and new crank/rods. To save $350, I spent an additional $3k to get it running again.

The "while I'm there" syndrome is something you NEED to listen to. The stock pan worked great...until I went to TWS and had slicks that pulled 1.2 G's in some sustained G corners.

It cost me...big. I should have listened to my engine builder...I had the money and didn't want to spend it.

I LISTEN to him now...

You'll notice those numbers are with a LTR intake on it...

 

What happened ? thanks !

 

I think to be fair to the OP we should not blow smoke up his a$$. I spent the money and I don't regret 1 cent. My advice to him is simple, find a builder you trust. I can highly recommend one. Then balance your goals with your budget. His original question was Mini Ram vs. Super Ram. When it comes down to it the cost difference is negligable. The question is what do you want when you drive it.

I used to work on NASA satellites. They came up with a new way to build them call "Cheaper, Better and Faster". After several failures the new way was scrapped. They could never get more than 2 out of 3. The same logic applies here.

 

It's not hard to spend $7K plus on a stroker with quality parts. And most of the big cube SBC's I have done with an aftermarket block will end up over $10K. I have well over $10K in my engine. The nice thing about using top shelf parts is if you decide down the road you want more power (power adder) then the bottom end is strong enough to take the added power. But it really comes down to what your goals are for your car. Not every engine I do has Dart block, Crower rods, a 4340 crank, and JE pistons. I have done plenty of mild 383's that last along time with cast parts if not pushed too hard. For alot of people that is all they need. But with that being said... you get what you pay for.

 

This is the builder you need to listen to.

 

Hard braking, too much grip in the tires, long sweeping turn and you have sustained sucking of air into the oil pickup...

I spun 3 rod bearings and cracked the crank in 3 places as well.

A good road-race style pan has 1 quart extra oil in it, and spring-loaded baffle doors to keep the oil in the pickup area.

Canton is DEFINITELY a must when you bump the traction/braking capabilities of the car