I've been searching, but haven't found any info on replacing the pump on a 91 L98. Has anybody done it, is it complicated?

 

Very easy !!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=28155590

 

Thanks for the reply, but when i click on your link, it comes up "Sorry, no matches". Am I doing something wrong?

 

its cake on the C4s-just remove ur gas lid and you should see a rubber seal and some screws or bolts. The pump comes out with the whole sending unit. Its been a few years since Ive done it but it really is pretty simple-shouldnt even need instructions.

 

type in the words FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT in the search box

 

...and the fuel pump's pretty easy too...

 

I just did this on my '88 three weeks ago. Not very difficult, but there are a few things to be aware of.
1. Be careful and patient when removing the hoses. Take your time here; they have been on there a long time and will crack easily. Replacing them, however, will add significant time and hassle to the job.
2. It is important that the rectangular gasket (appx 3" X 5") is in good shape and seals well. J&D Corvette (a forum sponsor) can sell you one for 6 bucks.
I made my own from some sheet rubber that I had around. Whatever you end up doing, be it replacing, making your own or salvaging the existing one, make absolutely sure that you have a good seal when reinstalling the unit.
3. There is a yellow plastic electrical connector on top of the plate, right by the filler neck. Do not try to remove this, it will break. Disconnect the wires on the inside. This will make sense when you remove the entire unit.
4. When you disconnect all the lines & screws and actually start to take the entire unit out, do not be dismayed when it appears that there is no way to get it out. If you carefully turn it and keep working with it, it will come out.
5. Most importantly, do not start this job without disconnecting the battery!
Hope this is of value.

 

20 minute job. Comes out from the top. Remove fuel door, rubber boot, hoses, electrical connector, sending unit bolts, and wiggle it out.

Replace pump in sending unit assembly.

Reverse.

I didn't even get the second beer finished.

 

I did this one recently. My tank was really dirty, so if yours is too, now might be a good time to clean it. Be real careful with the bolts that bolt the filler neck part to the tank. Mine were very corroded, and as careful as I was, one snapped off when I was taking it out! Had to drill and tap it...made a relatively easy job a hassle. I would up getting stainless bolts, so you might consider this too if yours are in bad shape.

Good luck!

 

Do not even start the job until you have the following parts/supplys there...

new hose clamps EFI clamps.
12" of EFI fuel line (size?) same size barbed pipe union to splice hose if needed.
new tank gasket.
11 new 10mm stainless bolts. Anti seize lube for threads.

siphon hose and 5 gal can to siphon as much of the dirt thats floating in the tank as possible.

New fuel filter. new pump w/screen.

fan or some way to dissapate fumes. (there will be lots) NO electric tools nearby.

IF your intake windage tray has broken off or separated, see the thread recently regarding fuel starvation or engine cutting out at low fuel level. You can build a new tank "well" to solve the problem because it WILL happen. The factory tray is glued on the tank bottom and once it comes off...its very difficult to get it glued back to the tank liner.

If its a simple pump replacement with no upgrades...2 hr job if all the stuff is there.
Hose especially...plan on tearing the ends of the pressure hose and the return, As someone already stated, they are OLD and hard. They don't wanna come off. If you end up damaging too much to get back on the tank fitting, thats where the barbed union comes in to splice in a new section of EFI grade fuel hose.
The filler boot will likely tear as its removed...they all do.

Siphoning the floating trash out is the quickest and safest way to get most of the trash out. IF you can reach in with a rag thats fine...many guys can;t. The hole is not very large. That being said, use care when removing the assy and re-installing. The float arm is easy to bend and throw the gauge off.
You might want to search for the thread for cleaning the fuel sender while its apart.

Have fun!

 

Grumpyvette has a tutorial on this:

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/....php?f=32&t=33

 

Here is the write-up that Frak did for us a few years back complete with how to photos. Its about an hour job if you take your good old time and 15 minutes or less if you hurry. Check it out.

 

My apologies everyone, I posted my question and then my computer took a walk on the wild side! It seems to be better now...
I'm assuming the fuel pump should help my problem. the car runs great when its got more than a half a tank, but once it dips under a half tank, it runs like crap. It shudders and shakes like its starving for fuel. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks for your help.

 

i'll have a few beers before I start... that should solve that problem!