time for rebuild
I have decided to build it into a 383 since it has to be torn apart anyways. Really wanted a LS1 but I don't want the headache of wiring it in.
I have noticed lots of 383 kits on Ebay and wondering how hard is this gonna be for in garage build up? I do have mechanical abilities and lots of tools and air compressor.
Just need to know what all needs to be done and where is a good place to purchase a 383 kit?? theres alot on ebay I have been looking at.
I want a pretty mild cam, something where it sounds good and hits hard, but not overkill if that makes sense.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/2821760932.html
Is this something I could use to save me money and just build it since its already bored and put together? Or just build my old block?
Mid-late 90s Truck blocks are good for that plus they got 4 bolt mains.
Easier to just get a complete crate though if you go 383 you may want a slightly better head. Wouldnt buy an unknown ebay cheapie you just dont know what youre getting. You looking to rebuild the one you have or drop in something completely different (assuming you are)
budget?
the heads are a poor match small valves and 58cc chambers will make very high compression. dished pistons for 383 kits are more money
383 is going to cost about $1,200 just in block machine work
The TPI intake has the best low end available.... now you combine huge torque from a 383 you get a burnout king... your going no where.. the TPI is restrictive for air flow 383 needs air flow...
your power band from 4800 rpms will be wasted using the TPI setup
you will need injectors, adj FP reg, a tune to match the 383 setup
unless the parts you are looking at are name brand parts most ebay engine parts will cost more money to make them work... if they dont break or wear out
by the time your done you should have picked up a low mileage LSx
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Jan 27, 2012 at 10:27 PM.
Only difference is a little block/pan clearancing depending, less than 200 (outside the typical bore/hone etc)
Maybe I misunderstood, just woke up
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You may be able to pick up a running motor cheaper in good condition.
You need a lot of supporting mods to take full advantage of the 383.If you arent willing to do that stick with the 350 and the proven upgrades that work for a tpi.
You may be able to pick up a running motor cheaper in good condition.
You need a lot of supporting mods to take full advantage of the 383.If you arent willing to do that stick with the 350 and the proven upgrades that work for a tpi.

Better define budget and goals. Solid near stock daily driver?...Rebuild what you have.
If the original motor just overheated, it's likely all you need to do is pull the heads, have the heads checked and then machined for flatness (aluminum heads will often twist (warp) a little even when removed from an engine that didn't overheat), and install new gaskets. This will cost $500-$1,000 if you do the work yourself. Depending on mileage you may end up adding a water pump ($50 on a Gen 1), and perhaps a radiator (since it overheated, something in the system wasn't contributing to cooling properly!).
If you build a 383....crank, pistons, intake, heads, cam, bearings, machine work, gaskets, tuning, injectors, etc...plan on a minimum of $4k and most likely closer to $5k for a decent, cheap build. Want more power or dependability? Keep adding $$
Easy to do the build in the garage, assuming you have a reasonable work space, light, etc. I know a few on here have performed work in much more "austere" conditions, but that's just not for me.
A bone stock mustang GT could out run this car in heart beat and I don't like that feeling. Guess I am use to the power of my Viper and understand they are not close, but just feel like the 350 in my vette is like a V6. Nothing special.
Guess my expectations are too high for the corvette
A bone stock mustang GT could out run this car in heart beat and I don't like that feeling. Guess I am use to the power of my Viper and understand they are not close, but just feel like the 350 in my vette is like a V6. Nothing special.
Guess my expectations are too high for the corvette





I the same thought when I put a new motor in my 86 if i going go though all that work mite as well put a motor in it thatt wont get beat by a Toyota Camry.
I also have a 383 Love it but I think I do need more gear in the rear it has a auto behind it it quick but I think it could get hole harder with a set of 3:54 in it I have 3:07 now.
I must agree get a good set of heads you need to get that big bore 383 to breath to get the most out it bang for the buck.
I have Trick folws now but if I was going to do it again and If I knew about these heads before I purchaced my TF this is the heads I would of purchased.
http://www.profilerperformance.com/r.../sbc-23-degree
Good luck I have about $5500.00 in my 383 so far LOL.
People have been making 350's run hard since before I was born. I would rebuild it and put your money into addressing the L98's weak points.
also if it matters 383 means motor has to come out but you can do a cam swap and work on the top end with the engine in the car.
People have been making 350's run hard since before I was born. I would rebuild it and put your money into addressing the L98's weak points.
also if it matters 383 means motor has to come out but you can do a cam swap and work on the top end with the engine in the car.




I can tell you who not to get the short block from LOL but true.
If you do get a short block take it apart clean very well check everything before stick in the car trust me been there done that.
Even if you build a 350/355 and want to get power out of it you still need better Heads, Cam, Intake, Injectors, Exhaust, Tune and cooling so might as well make it a stroker not much more money.
Dont forget if you have a Auto trans you need to build that up also to handle the extra power plus Tourqe convetor with some extra stall I went with a 2500 stall now I wished i went with more stall 3000 if I ever pull the trans again.
IMO youre hooked on the Viper torque youll never get that with a 350.
Id stroke that thing to a 396 (3.875 stroke crank) then use supporting parts to make it do what you want to do. Great power and torque and still packaged like a sbc noone will ever know and things will still fit back together.
if you can drop a few bucks then go for an aft. block..421, 427, 434ci sbc. Viper killer territory there.
And what others have said you might have to go with a stand alone type ECM to get the most out a big over lap type cam set up.
To much lift my cause you problems also including push in type rocker arm studs and valve spring that can handle a BIG cam.
Each there own but dont skimp on valve train parts if they let go all you're going to end up with is a Corvette sitting in the driveway.
I running a LT-4 hotcam they say it can pass Ca Smog it didn't last time I got it smoged in my 383 they say I need a better tune then again If I could I would also go to a more agressive type cam but I need to find out my self what can i get away with.
Get your cooling fixed... and sell that HP LOL TPI intake... to someone that has a TBI setup looking
Pick up the edlebrock efi pro flo xt... check the heads.. I'm sure they will be fine...install good head gaskets
If you have 3:23 gears or below... Step up to at least 3:45 you will now beat up 2000 range GT's
I pulled 14.3 in my old 305 stock TPI TA with 155, with my tune, inj, TB, 3:73 & mufflers only
That was more then enough to beat GT's they were averaging 14.5/7
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Jan 28, 2012 at 06:14 PM.
It all says if you are converting the car from carburator to fuel injection.
CORRECTION the pro flow intake is available stand alone... Well worth looking at
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Feb 4, 2012 at 03:40 AM.















