Shock replacement
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 3
From: Mission, Kansas
Shock replacement
Does anyone have a link for step by step process on replacing all 4 shocks on a 1990 Corvette? It looks simple, but I want to make sure I don't get into something I can't get out of. Also, would appreciate torque specs for the bolts/nuts to the shocks.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 519
Likes: 22
From: Golden CO
Ha, I'm right there with you, I bought new shocks for my 92 a couple months ago, bought some jack stands, and there it ended. I did read here somewhere the torque values are wrong from some source, I'll dig it up. Do you have a FSM, I do and should look there again but I don't recall it being rich in info... But from what I recall, it is very basic, you don't have to have any special tools, though air tools would sure beat doing by hand. Ill be doing by hand.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 3
From: Mission, Kansas
Ha, I'm right there with you, I bought new shocks for my 92 a couple months ago, bought some jack stands, and there it ended. I did read here somewhere the torque values are wrong from some source, I'll dig it up. Do you have a FSM, I do and should look there again but I don't recall it being rich in info... But from what I recall, it is very basic, you don't have to have any special tools, though air tools would sure beat doing by hand. Ill be doing by hand.
I have cousins in San Jose. Maybe I'll go out there to visit and stop by and help you, then you can make up some faux business trip to Kansas City and help me.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
Stay away from the air tools, unless you're a pro. They'll get you in trouble real quick! Pretty straight forward job.
Support the car on jack stands, but put blocks under the wheels so they can't drop down when you remove the original shocks. Bonus feature of C4's: Front suspension is easily accessable with the hood up! Note for early C4 owners that have the sissor type hood support: Don't move the car with the hood up! The support may bend in the middle, and hood will slam down!
The nuts at the top of your new shock may be different that the original parts, but tighten them just enough to expand the rubber bushings to the same diameter as the big washers. Don't damage the polished shafts of your new shocks by using vise grips or pliers. You may need to drill a hole thru the fiberglass bracket directly above the front shocks to get a screwdriver into the slot on the ends of your new shocks. No big deal!
Support the car on jack stands, but put blocks under the wheels so they can't drop down when you remove the original shocks. Bonus feature of C4's: Front suspension is easily accessable with the hood up! Note for early C4 owners that have the sissor type hood support: Don't move the car with the hood up! The support may bend in the middle, and hood will slam down!
The nuts at the top of your new shock may be different that the original parts, but tighten them just enough to expand the rubber bushings to the same diameter as the big washers. Don't damage the polished shafts of your new shocks by using vise grips or pliers. You may need to drill a hole thru the fiberglass bracket directly above the front shocks to get a screwdriver into the slot on the ends of your new shocks. No big deal!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,351
Likes: 222
From: Delta B.C. Canada
2023 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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On the rears, the top of the shock is attached to a bracket, which in turn attaches the the frame with 2 bolts. Remove the nut from the bottom of the shock, and pull it off of the mounting stud. Then remove the two top bolts, and pull the top of the shock out of the frame rail.
IIRC correctly, the torque on the bottom is 65# and the top two are 25#. On the top stud, either double nut it or use locklite when reattaching to the bracket.
IIRC correctly, the torque on the bottom is 65# and the top two are 25#. On the top stud, either double nut it or use locklite when reattaching to the bracket.
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