C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

HELP Me please! Abt coolant temp sensor

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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
The link i posted to summit has the part you need,
on the 85 the left side (drivers side) is the auxillary fan,
on the right side is the primary fan,
I know this 195 f switch works, when we had the snapon reader hooked up to the ecm doing the timing the primary fan came on as soon as the temp hit 195
Okay, there little problem.. The new crate motor that I got have the bigger hole that would not fit the sensor in. What can I do?
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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Buy a reducer that's the right size for the block and the sensor .The parts people will be able to help you find the right one.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by steven mack
Buy a reducer that's the right size for the block and the sensor .The parts people will be able to help you find the right one.
Wouldn't that misread the temp if the sensor is little out?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 05:44 AM
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sounds like you are going thru the same stuff i did ! When i put the edelbrock heads on i had a larger hole too, I went to the industrial fittings place and they had adaptors for everything, so check the phone book or google,
and yes i wondered the same thing about the temp switch being away from the water flow, but it seems to work fine !
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by steven mack
Buy a reducer
1/2"NPT to 3/8" NPT

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2139/
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
on the 85 the left side (drivers side) is the auxillary fan,
on the right side is the primary fan,
Where is your temp gauge sender located?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
Are these arranged differently every year?
On my 87, the passenger side (between 6 & 8) is the temp gauge display sender unit.
driver side (between 1&3) is aux cooling fan temp switch.
Trap for young players; Positions swapped in '86

Notwithstanding differences in fan operation.
84 had a mech switch only for the main fan
85 had ECM control of the fan and mech switch for aux fan ( if fitted)
And supposedly a mech over ride switch for the main fan

86- 89 had ECM control and mech switch for aux fan ( if fitted)
90+ had ECM control of both fans
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteoz
Trap for young players; Positions swapped in '86

Notwithstanding differences in fan operation.
84 had a mech switch only for the main fan
85 had ECM control of the fan and mech switch for aux fan ( if fitted)
And supposedly a mech over ride switch for the main fan

86- 89 had ECM control and mech switch for aux fan ( if fitted)
90+ had ECM control of both fans
Old ones as well !
I was unaware of that ! TY for the clarification.

To the above "big hole small thread" problem...go to ACE hardware or even the Depot and buy the appropiate brass bushing. That allows the sensor to still enter the block the same distance...it simply fills the hole. Even IF the sensor were OUT of the hole 1".....its still going to be submerged in the hot water...won;t effect anything. The water under pressure will find and fill the voids.

I guess the easy way for those that understand the system operation would be to simply ground the sensor wire to ground and see what happens....something will come on or the gauge will go to a default setting.

Last edited by leesvet; Mar 4, 2012 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
sounds like you are going thru the same stuff i did ! When i put the edelbrock heads on i had a larger hole too, I went to the industrial fittings place and they had adaptors for everything, so check the phone book or google,
and yes i wondered the same thing about the temp switch being away from the water flow, but it seems to work fine !
Okay I got the reducer and I am progressing nicely as I have stopped at intake manifold issues. The bolts that I ordered came in snapped at 35lbs torque at the first bolt. Second one snapped the head off, so I see it's grade five bolts. I wonder if it's a wrong grade and I should try to get higher grade bolts? Thanks
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by VetteFan85
Okay I got the reducer and I am progressing nicely as I have stopped at intake manifold issues. The bolts that I ordered came in snapped at 35lbs torque at the first bolt. Second one snapped the head off, so I see it's grade five bolts. I wonder if it's a wrong grade and I should try to get higher grade bolts? Thanks
35lbs is what is recommended for iron heads, do you now have alloy heads on your crate motor ?
you dont need that much tension (or a high tensile bolt) on alloy manifold onto alloy heads, you are better off doing them up hand tight with a ring spanner (or a wrench if you live in usa )
its the tightening sequence that is probably more important.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
35lbs is what is recommended for iron heads, do you now have alloy heads on your crate motor ?
you dont need that much tension (or a high tensile bolt) on alloy manifold onto alloy heads, you are better off doing them up hand tight with a ring spanner (or a wrench if you live in usa )
its the tightening sequence that is probably more important.
Yeah, I figured that and went by hand tightening method and of course it's important to do that ha but I hit another dead end as I realized how diffcult is it to put the motor back into car. Any of you guys had this struggling? Any advices would be much appreciate. it's just a motor and the tranny stayed in there as pulled the motor.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by VetteFan85
I realized how diffcult is it to put the motor back into car. .
Leave dist out , get 2 bolts 2 or 3" long, cut the heads off and install either side in back of block
Lower into car , line up bolts with trans
Push engine back onto trans and set onto engine mounts at same time.Some jiggling required
Helps to have a jack under trans so you can adjust height to suit
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteoz
Leave dist out , get 2 bolts 2 or 3" long, cut the heads off and install either side in back of block
Lower into car , line up bolts with trans
Push engine back onto trans and set onto engine mounts at same time.Some jiggling required
Helps to have a jack under trans so you can adjust height to suit
Got it, many thanks and I have this unsure question about my car which is that once I completed installing the motor and get pass over the wires connecting. Should I take the car to shop before starting the car?
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 10:10 AM
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Default C4 cooling problem

After a short layup, my cooling fan no longer turns on. Questions are: there are 2 fans which is the primary? What signals the fan to come on? Of the 2 grey relays on the drivers side mounted next to the radiator, which controls which fan. Also when I turn on the AC, the AC clutch does not activate nor the cooling fan.
1996 LT4
thanks
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