C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Differential Drain

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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by krackenvette
I guess we aren't as smart *** you. But the point should be taken that after 17 years someone decides to change diff oil. And 34,000 miles. Time vs actual use. Regardless, we all have our advice, and opinions. Its a forum, not an ASE certified mechanics thread. Its just that, nothing more.
I am an ASE certified mechanic sir and I would be willing to bet money I'm not the only one here that is.Your opinion could cost someone. I don't think he was asking for a wild guess he was asking from guidance from someone who knows what they are talking about ASE certified or not.

Last edited by ch@0s; Mar 20, 2012 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
I am an ASE certified mechanic sir and I would be willing to bet money I'm not the only one here that is.Your opinion could cost someone. I don't think he was asking for a wild guess he was asking from guidance from someone who knows what they are talking about ASE certified or not.
Roger that Mr ASE, lighten up or you will have to reply to threads all day. LOL
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by krackenvette
Roger that Mr ASE, lighten up or you will have to reply to threads all day. LOL
For someone with only 70 posts and 3 months membership, maybe you should wait awhile before stepping on to many toes.. Could cost you in the long run..Just a friendly suggestion.. ...... WW
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
For someone with only 70 posts and 3 months membership, maybe you should wait awhile before stepping on to many toes.. Could cost you in the long run..Just a friendly suggestion.. ...... WW
...Exactly..It's pretty clear that the guy who says don't change it is a cheapskate... Lets see..$25 plus shipping for the anylisis..They tell you Yep it needs to be changed..$35 for gear oil and Posi additive...Sixty bucks plus shipping...Real good advice here..

To the OP..Do you have a West Marine or a boatyard near you? If so look in the store for the Hand pump for filling outdrives..It screws on to quart bottles. Get a piece of tubing that fits over the pumps intake tutube at your loccal hardware store...Pull the fill plug out and shove the tube into the diff and pump the old fluid out.That same tube will fit on the dicharge end of the hand pump. Put that end in the fill hole of the diff ...Screw the hand pump on the quart bottle and pump the new gear oil into the diff..You can stop 1/2 way and add the Posi additive to the gear oil bottle and finish filling...PM me if this is unclear...


Oh and kracker...There a lot of ASE Certified Techs on here....Just Sayin'
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nutz4c4
...Exactly..It's pretty clear that the guy who says don't change it is a cheapskate... Lets see..$25 plus shipping for the anylisis..They tell you Yep it needs to be changed..$35 for gear oil and Posi additive...Sixty bucks plus shipping...Real good advice here..

To the OP..Do you have a West Marine or a boatyard near you? If so look in the store for the Hand pump for filling outdrives..It screws on to quart bottles. Get a piece of tubing that fits over the pumps intake tutube at your loccal hardware store...Pull the fill plug out and shove the tube into the diff and pump the old fluid out.That same tube will fit on the dicharge end of the hand pump. Put that end in the fill hole of the diff ...Screw the hand pump on the quart bottle and pump the new gear oil into the diff..You can stop 1/2 way and add the Posi additive to the gear oil bottle and finish filling...PM me if this is unclear...


Oh and kracker...There a lot of ASE Certified Techs on here....Just Sayin'
Understand. Didnt mean to **** people off or have them get a good laugh, I still think at 34000 miles and 17 years, does it really matter.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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Yes it does. If you were a qualified, knowledgeable mechanic, you would know about the affects of the time on oil. Condensation corrosion, etc.
Originally Posted by krackenvette
Roger that Mr ASE, lighten up... LOL
This seems to be a very common response on the forums when someone is proven wrong. "Don't be so serious man!" Der. People come here looking for good information. BE serious.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Yes it does. If you were a qualified, knowledgeable mechanic, you would know about the affects of the time on oil. Condensation corrosion, etc.

This seems to be a very common response on the forums when someone is proven wrong. "Don't be so serious man!" Der. People come here looking for good information. BE serious.
Okay, I get it. Unsubsribing
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 09:25 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by krackenvette
Okay, I was wrong but i'm to proud to admit it so i'm just going to pretend it never happened. Unsubsribing
Fixed

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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:02 PM
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It is better to remain silent and be thought an idiot than open your mouth and remove all doubt.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Oh, and to the OP, change the oil.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by nutz4c4

Oh and kracker...There a lot of ASE Certified Techs on here....Just Sayin'
I'm another, that is Master ASE Certified Automobile Technician...which means I can take tests and have at least HALF a clue as to what I'm doing.

I agree with Tom400CFI, folks come here for answers, not comedy. Save that stuff for OT.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 09:04 AM
  #33  
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5 years ago I replaced the fluid in the pumpkin on my 94 Vette…it’s easy.

I bought an electric portable bilge pump for the job. They are available at marine supply shops. With the Vette high up on jack stands I took off the fill bolt on top of the pumpkin and feed in the siphon hose. I then turned on the pump, 4-7 minutes later the pumpkin was empty. I reversed the siphon hose and pumped in my new Mobil 1 rear axle oil with the GM additive to the level of the bottom of the fill hole.

The whole process took maybe an hour…and that was with the 12 oz of Guinness fluids that I added to myself when I was finished.

Need any more help…drop me a PM and I’ll walk you through it.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Black89Z51
It is better to remain silent and be thought an idiot than open your mouth and remove all doubt.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 08:57 AM
  #35  
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69mako and nutz4c4 thank you for the information. I'd much rather find a boat store and get a pump than drill tap and hope it doesn't leak. It sounds like it still would be wise to change the fluid, yes? Does everyone agree 80w90 and the diff additive is still the best to put back in or is there something newer and better?
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:59 AM
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I use 75w90 full synthetic + additive. But honestly, any gear oil will be sufficient.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hawkshil
69mako and nutz4c4 thank you for the information. I'd much rather find a boat store and get a pump than drill tap and hope it doesn't leak. It sounds like it still would be wise to change the fluid, yes? Does everyone agree 80w90 and the diff additive is still the best to put back in or is there something newer and better?
I drilled and tapped and never had a leak. It makes changing the fluid so easy and isn't hard to do. I did this when I had my rearend apart so it was no big deal, but it can be done with the rear intact too.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #38  
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I have drilled and tapped my differential and it has been leak free for about 3 years or so. I change my oil once a year since I race it.

This is the oil I use and prefer:

AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90




It already has posi additive in it so no need to add any more. I put it straight into the diff and I have no issues with chattering or anything.


Amsoil also has a hand pump that comes with tubing to fit all their bottles:


http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?G...292?zo=1934716
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Kubs
I have drilled and tapped my differential and it has been leak free for about 3 years or so. I change my oil once a year since I race it.

This is the oil I use and prefer:

AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90




It already has posi additive in it so no need to add any more. I put it straight into the diff and I have no issues with chattering or anything.


Amsoil also has a hand pump that comes with tubing to fit all their bottles:


http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?G...292?zo=1934716
Kubs can the pump suck the fluid out or just put it in?
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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I have used it to do both. All you do is put the tube on the other end.

Originally Posted by hawkshil
Kubs can the pump suck the fluid out or just put it in?
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