C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Differential Drain

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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 01:42 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by krackenvette
Did you have an oil analysis done? There is the oil and the gm additive. I bet the additive wore out.
Regardless, changing oil just because you feel it is bad is wasteful. Have a sample tested, for 25 bucks. They will tell you the condition of the oil and contaminants within the oil.
But if people just want to change oil to change oil, its your money. If you dont know if something is worn with the oil, or within the parts, you are just wasting money in the long run. Its my opinion, nothing more.
I would be more concerned of 17 year old antifreeze and brake fluid, than my differential fluid.
I have a word for you, condensation,at the minimum. I would replace the oil, and be done with it. Been than again, the world may be flat yet.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 11:32 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by lltrevino
I have a word for you, condensation,at the minimum. I would replace the oil, and be done with it. Been than again, the world may be flat yet.

What people don't understand is letting your sit around is bad for it. Seals harden ,condensation and corrosion set it and fluids like to be cycled.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #43  
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I have always wondered where this "condensation" comes from, given that the differential is sealed.

My FSM says on page 0B-3: "The manual transmission or transaxle fluid does not require changing".

I also don't understand why this is so complicated. If you think the oil should be changed then do it. If not, then don't.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
I have always wondered where this "condensation" comes from, given that the differential is sealed.
Ever see a "sealed" jar, water bottle, etc with condensation on the inside? There is moisture in the air, virtually everywhere. It's called "humidity". When you "seal up" your rear diff, there is air inside it, that came from the air outside it...that has moisture in it. When you change the temp of the diff, that moisture can condense on the metal parts the parts can then corrode...especially if the car has sat (a lot like in the OP's case), and the metal parts aren't evenly coated with oil. Corrosion puts gritty particulate in the oil. The oil becomes an abrasive. The parts wear. Can you see it now? This is one potential issue. I feel that there are others, and $10 worth of oil is worth the piece of mind, for me.

Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
My FSM says on page 0B-3: "The manual transmission or transaxle fluid does not require changing".
I don't know that sitting for years qualifies as "normal use". Also, car is engineered to last 100,000 miles...and many (most) are over that. So what to do??? The recommendation of THIS mechanic is to spend a few dollars and change the oil. Take a sample if you absolutely feel the need to know for sure.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 03:04 AM
  #45  
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The reason I asked about condensation is that the volume of air in a differential is pretty small. I can't imagine there's much moisture in there.

I guess we should be shooting some nitrogen in there when we change the oil, huh? Back in the old days when I was doing darkroom work I heard about an aerosol can that had nitrogen in it that you could spray into your chemical bottles to displace the oxygen and prevent oxidation. I assume that stuff is still available. I don't remember the brand.

I guess dry air from a compressor would work.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 05:03 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
The reason I asked about condensation is that the volume of air in a differential is pretty small. I can't imagine there's much moisture in there.

I guess we should be shooting some nitrogen in there when we change the oil, huh? Back in the old days when I was doing darkroom work I heard about an aerosol can that had nitrogen in it that you could spray into your chemical bottles to displace the oxygen and prevent oxidation. I assume that stuff is still available. I don't remember the brand.

I guess dry air from a compressor would work.
The problem with your theory is that the differential is not sealed, it is vented to atmosphere.

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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
Fixed

You cannot teach a man anything; you can only help him discover it in himself.” ~ Galileo Galilei
Arent you an IT? What ASE are you, if you dont mind proving via copy of your cert.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by toptechx6
The problem with your theory is that the differential is not sealed, it is vented to atmosphere.

...
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by krackenvette
Arent you an IT? What ASE are you, if you dont mind proving via copy of your cert.
Yeah...That'll help prove you were right all along!


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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by krackenvette
Arent you an IT? What ASE are you, if you dont mind proving via copy of your cert.
I'm both, why do you need proof are you hiring?
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 10:27 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Yeah...That'll help prove you were right all along!


Not worth it.

Last edited by krackenvette; Mar 26, 2012 at 10:52 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
I'm both, why do you need proof are you hiring?
Not worth the response. PM you.

Last edited by krackenvette; Mar 26, 2012 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 11:54 PM
  #53  
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unsubscribing.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 01:05 AM
  #54  
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The vent proves I was totally wrong about the condensation. Sorry for the distraction.

My car has 111K on it and the differential oil has not been changed since 1986 when I had a leak repaired. I'm planning on putting in a drain plug in the near future.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #55  
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Don't know if anyone else does this but when I change my gear oil I just tip the car on it's side till it's empty.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by kimmer
Don't know if anyone else does this but when I change my gear oil I just tip the car on it's side till it's empty.
Or if you flip it upside down, the oil will flow out the vent hole and you won't even have to remove the filler plug.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 10:48 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
The vent proves I was totally wrong about the condensation. Sorry for the distraction.
It's not something many people think about. I know I've seen them before than thought "WTF". I've never found out for sure, but I assume the fluid can (significantly) expand on a long trip where it builds heat. And, if the pressure were allowed to build, you might be more apt to blow out seals (like pinion or axle bearing).

Again, not the expert, just a guess. If wrong, I'd be interested to know the real reason.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Yeah...That'll help prove you were right all along!




This is absolutely beyond absurdity at this point. What are you trying to prove Kracken? Nobody said that having the oil analyzed was a bad idea, but here's the deal. If you have to crawl under the car, draw out a sample, then pay $25+ to send it off and have it analyzed, wait weeks for the results, only to determine what?

1. Yeah, it's fine, but now it's low on fluid because of what you sucked out so you're gonna have to buy new fluid anyway to top it off.

OR

2. It needs to be changed, which will cost little more than the analysis did in the first place.

It's a great THEORY if you're running a fleet of vehicles that you're putting a ton of miles on and you need to save every penny. But, he doesn't have fleet of Corvettes, he has ONE. Why spend $25+ dollars HOPING that your oil will be good enough to continue to use when you could just spend $35 and change it and then you KNOW.

You seriously don't want to get into a "credentials" pissing match around here, I promise you you'll lose. When you've driven your car as many miles going forward as most of us have in reverse then we'll be happy to listen to your input.

But then again, I'm an IT guy, I CAN'T know ANYTHING about cars. I guess that CDL driver's license just jumped in my wallet too.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #59  
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Nathan, you could not have said it better. I find the C4 section to be the most informative of the entire Forum and it's because of a bunch of guys who don't mind sharing their knowledge and expertise with guys like me that are not as skilled or knowledgeable. It's not difficult to sort out the guys who've been there, done that and have the expertise, certified or not versus the relatively smaller group that feels the need to provide an opposing opinion just because they want some air time or need to get their post count up. I'm by and large a lurker that enjoys this forum and don't usually make comment. It' because of the knowledgeable guys here that I tackle small jobs on my C4 that I otherwise would be intimidated by. To you real experts who have walked that mile and have the expertise please don't desert us.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by hawkshil
Awesome thank you this helps a lot.
Hawk:

I have the "kit" the Ackman shows on his link. I bought it before my lift was install. While rebuilding the rear end (bushings) I just drilled and tapped it on the bench. But I did 1/2" NPT. It's just sitting around collecting dust. Never used. Sooooooo............. you can have it for just the shipping. Just send it on free to the next guy. Share the wealth. Let me know.

Dave
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