C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Engine Died While Driving

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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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Default Engine Died While Driving

While driving this evening my '86 vette just died. It's got plenty of fuel, battery and alternator are good, has gas pressure at rails. Still sitting on side of road waiting for the tow truck. What else could it be?
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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I had my wife bring my scanner, it's showing no codes other than 12, which is diagnostic test.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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I don't know whats wrong, could be a lot of things. You posted the year but it would be very helpful to others here if you would provide more information.
Does it turn over, if it won't turn over does it make any noise at all, does it do anything?

Just trying to help you get help. Good luck.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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It turns over. It didn't make any unusual sound when it died, the engine just shut off. All the accessories continued to operate.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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The dreaded HEI module under the rotor, when you change it make sure you use the dialectric grease.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:35 PM
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Lots of things could have gone wrong but when this happened recently to me with my newly rebuilt 87 engine, the cause turned out to be the engine RPM sensor/pickup coil underneath the distro cap. Guess it started reading 0 RPMs so the ECM shut down the engine--no fault codes, no warnings, just shut the engine down and it wouldnt start. There are two other ignition components in the distro cap that might cause a similar outcome but it was the pick-up coil that was the problem for me. Assume you have no spark at the plugs?????? If it is the pickup coil, you have to pull the distro shaft and disassemble shaft/drive gear to get at the coil.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dsandmire
Lots of things could have gone wrong but when this happened recently to me with my newly rebuilt 87 engine, the cause turned out to be the engine RPM sensor/pickup coil underneath the distro cap. Guess it started reading 0 RPMs so the ECM shut down the engine--no fault codes, no warnings, just shut the engine down and it wouldnt start. There are two other ignition components in the distro cap that might cause a similar outcome but it was the pick-up coil that was the problem for me. Assume you have no spark at the plugs?????? If it is the pickup coil, you have to pull the distro shaft and disassemble shaft/drive gear to get at the coil.
I would think module first, those coils last a long, long time. Remove the module and have it checked.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
I would think module first, those coils last a long, long time. Remove the module and have it checked.
I'd agree with module. Had the same issue with my Mustang so many times I would always make sure I carried a spare with me. Fortunately on a 5.0 they are easy to change out.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rocknroller
I'd agree with module. Had the same issue with my Mustang so many times I would always make sure I carried a spare with me. Fortunately on a 5.0 they are easy to change out.
Good idea, I'm gonna put my spare in the car tomorrowand maybe my tps and air/idle. Got 2's of everything
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
The dreaded HEI module under the rotor, when you change it make sure you use the dialectric grease.
This was a brand new complete distributor assembly that I put in a few months ago. I did use the dialectic grease that came with the distributor. actually I still have the old one with a good ESM that I will plan on swapping.

I haven't had any problems like this before, even though I've only had the car a year.

I did degrease and was the engine last week, but Even so, I've driven the car plenty of times since then.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bredd1
This was a brand new complete distributor assembly that I put in a few months ago. I did use the dialectic grease that came with the distributor. actually I still have the old one with a good ESM that I will plan on swapping.

I haven't had any problems like this before, even though I've only had the car a year.

I did degrease and was the engine last week, but Even so, I've driven the car plenty of times since then.
If you have extra parts, swap em one at a time. I only buy Delco parts and don't trust certain aftermarket stuff, an HEI module being one of them. Check the dist. tightness, it may have loosened up, it does happen. Then change the top coil and so on, it could be a loose connector at the cap. Remember if you wanna wash the engine, do it with the engine running. Your problem could be in that distributor or maybe you jumped time.

Last edited by caddyboy84; Mar 25, 2012 at 11:50 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
If you have extra parts, swap em one at a time. I only buy Delco parts and don't trust certain aftermarket stuff, an HEI module being one of them. Check the dist. tightness, it may have loosened up, it does happen. Then change the top coil and so on, it could be a loose connector at the cap. Remember if you wanna wash the engine, do it with the engine running. Your problem is definately in that distributor.
I checked all the connectors at the distributor particularly the tach, all of them were in place and connected good. When I washed the engine I was careful not to get too much waster or degreaser near the distributor, and I did start and run the engine as I finished washing it down. I also made sure the engine got up to temp and I drove it around to make sure all the water and degreaser evaporated.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bredd1
I checked all the connectors at the distributor particularly the tach, all of them were in place and connected good. When I washed the engine I was careful not to get too much waster or degreaser near the distributor, and I did start and run the engine as I finished washing it down. I also made sure the engine got up to temp and I drove it around to make sure all the water and degreaser evaporated.
Did you try the old screwdriver in the plug wire while someone cranks it, to see if you got any spark? It really sounds like a module, I have seen them go bad in a couple of days. Check for moisture in the cap (blow it out with a compresser) check for spark, then swap the module.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
Did you try the old screwdriver in the plug wire while someone cranks it, to see if you got any spark? It really sounds like a module, I have seen them go bad in a couple of days. Check for moisture in the cap (blow it out with a compresser) check for spark, then swap the module.
I will pull apart the distributor and check everything tomorrow. I just made it home, the tow truck finally came. Right now, I know that I'm getting gas to the fuel rail, the engine turns over, all the accessories are working, battery & alternator seems good, I'm getting no codes. What I don't know is if I'm getting spark from the distributor or HEI at this point.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bredd1
I will pull apart the distributor and check everything tomorrow. I just made it home, the tow truck finally came. Right now, I know that I'm getting gas to the fuel rail, the engine turns over, all the accessories are working, battery & alternator seems good, I'm getting no codes. What I don't know is if I'm getting spark from the distributor or HEI at this point.
Check for moisture, if you got the cap wet, the heat from the engine will create condesation inside the cap and it may have traveled, even days later. Get more grease and swap that module, I'm gonna bet it's that. Good luck and let us know
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
The dreaded HEI module under the rotor, when you change it make sure you use the dialectric grease.
My first guess.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by caddyboy84
The dreaded HEI module under the rotor, when you change it make sure you use the dialectric grease.


My 85 used to do the same thing, the stock HEI gets brittle overtime and the potting breaks down,, I lived in Melbourne, up the road from you and the heat was a killer.

Easy to install and is a must do especially if you still have a stock HEI
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Don't pull anything apart until you determine if it is spark or injector pulse.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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When I had problems my MAF died but it wasn't throwing codes. If you want to easily find out just disconnect the electrical connector at the bottom of the MAF. If the car starts then you know that it is something that is reporting to the computer that is a problem. If the car doesn't start then you have to look in other areas.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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I think I will start with the MAF first, reason being is that after the engine died initially, I started checking for loose electrical connections and one of the ones I checked was the MAF along with the TPS, and idle air. Then I tried starting the engine and it started for one brief second and then died again and never restarted. Could be just coincidental but it may be a starting point.
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