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My '93 coupe turns over but does not start. I maintain between 40-20 lbs on the fuel pump guage. A spark at the plug. Also it failed the either down the throttle body test. No codes. This seems a strange problem. Any solutions appreciated.
My '93 coupe turns over but does not start. I maintain between 40-20 lbs on the fuel pump guage. A spark at the plug. Also it failed the either down the throttle body test. No codes. This seems a strange problem. Any solutions appreciated.
Timing is off, check to see if the distributor is tight. High miles car? Mabe you jumped time. Is the spark strong? Could be module or coil.
102,000 miles. ICM is suspect. Because it is over $100, I may have to wait a week or 2. I have another coil to try. The last opti I changed, about 200 miles ago, I put the MSD cap and rotor on a new A/C dist. I am suspicious of the rotor button coming loose because they warn to use loctight on the screw. I did. But I have terrible luck with this car.
If you don't have a noid light, place some fingers on 2 of the injectors, while someone cranks. You should be able to feel the vibration when they open and close.
It is a good idea to check the injector drive with a noid light. It will not only tell you that you have drive (or not) to the injectors, but will also verify that the opti is putting out the low resolution pulse and the ECM is clocking it thru. That same opti pulse is used for the drive for the ICM from the ECM.
Check the spark off the coil compared to a plug wire. Should be the same which is 1/2" spark to ground.
Also check your coil wire where it goes thru the water pump to make sure it's not sparking or grounding out killing the spark.
Noid lights seem to come in lots of styles and prices. Most kits come with 6. It that ok, or do I need 8? Does this stick on over the injector to test? Will the cheap set do the trick, or do I need to look for some specific ability?
Of course a bigger question is, if the rotor button had worked a little loose inside the dist. would I still be getting fire? I plan to test the coil output today. I put a MSD blaster on back when I did the last opti. I still have the old stock coil on it to compare.
thanks!
Noid lights seem to come in lots of styles and prices. Most kits come with 6. It that ok, or do I need 8? Does this stick on over the injector to test? Will the cheap set do the trick, or do I need to look for some specific ability?
Of course a bigger question is, if the rotor button had worked a little loose inside the dist. would I still be getting fire? I plan to test the coil output today. I put a MSD blaster on back when I did the last opti. I still have the old stock coil on it to compare.
thanks!
You only need one noid light really. You can always move it around if need be.
You can always make a noid light with a LED and a 680 ohm resistor in series with it. Got to get the correct polarity of the LED connecting it to make it work and light up.
You can hook up the original coil just for testing. Don’t need to mount it, just hook up the connectors and let it hang. It will work just fine.
"Generally", if the ICM is defective, it will put out its full output or nothing at all. It usually does not have a weak output that would lower the amount of spark you get.
Usually the rotor is going around in one piece or not. If it came loose and broke, you would get nothing. Either it works or it does not. And of course you know there is no timing question here. The opti goes on in just one position and all timing is performed by the ECM and related inputs to it.
The 2 wires on the injector are for (1)power on, and (2) a pulse telling it when to fire. Right? Can I see the pulse on a o-scope? I would be looking for a d/c pulse?
The 2 wires on the injector are for (1)power on, and (2) a pulse telling it when to fire. Right? Can I see the pulse on a o-scope? I would be looking for a d/c pulse?
You can definitely look at it with a scope. You have to look at the low side of the injector. It sits hi at 12 volts till the ECM grounds that point for the pulse. So you are looking for a high going to ground level (12 to 0 volts). I would couple the scope using DC coupling or you won't see the change.
The high side (of injector) is the voltage supply of 12 volts from the bus via the injector fuse. So it will always sit at 12 volts. If the low side does not go to ground for the injector pulse, then the ECM is not providing the injector drive.
You can check injector pulses by disconnecting one injector connector and probing the two pins with a voltmeter. One pin will be battery voltage and the other will be the pulses from the ECM (the engine needs to be running). You can see the voltage reading jumping around on the pin with the pulses. On my car that's the light green or light blue wire. All 8 injectors are connected together inside the ECM so it doesn't matter which bank or which injector you test.
This is what the injector pulses look like on my car at idle:
This is one of many ECM waveforms I posted on my web site at: