Torque Specification
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
Just the valve cover gaskets?
IIRC the gasket set also cones with gaskets for each bolt.
Good and tight should work, it does on my 92 that only has the perimeter gasket.
IIRC the gasket set also cones with gaskets for each bolt.
Good and tight should work, it does on my 92 that only has the perimeter gasket.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: North Bay Ontario
I'm sure there is a torque specification, and can look it up if necessary, but I would caution about putting very much weight into them. Aside from the risk of snapping a stud, the valve covers do not need to be tightened down hard, otherwise you'll simply overcompress the gasket (cork or rubber) and squeeze it out and then you'll be back to metal on metal. A gentle amount of torque is sufficient and then tighten them down a little more (evenly!) after you have put a few miles on the car.
Last edited by pletzvet; May 22, 2012 at 10:51 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: WV
I'm sure there is a torque specification, and can look it up if necessary, but I would caution about putting very much weight into them. Aside from the risk of snapping a stud, the valve covers do not need to be tightened down hard, otherwise you'll simply overcompress the gasket (cork or rubber) and squeeze it out and then you'll be back to metal on metal. A gentle amount of torque is sufficient and then tighten them down a little more (evenly!) after you have put a few miles on the car.
I am very careful when torquing into aluminum and on most aluminum parts I just tighten it by feel....I have stripped a few threads out by using a torque wrench.I believe this is because the bolts have been removed so many times the threads are partially worn... On runners and the plenum I just go until the bolt stops, then go a little bit more...The one exception is the intake manifold, these seem to be able to handle the torque without stripping..On the valve cover bolts I would just go until you make contact with the gasket, then compress the gasket slightly. If you get a small leak you can always go a bit more.....WW
Last edited by WW7; May 23, 2012 at 07:51 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
I'm sure there is a torque specification, and can look it up if necessary, but I would caution about putting very much weight into them. Aside from the risk of snapping a stud, the valve covers do not need to be tightened down hard, otherwise you'll simply overcompress the gasket (cork or rubber) and squeeze it out and then you'll be back to metal on metal. A gentle amount of torque is sufficient and then tighten them down a little more (evenly!) after you have put a few miles on the car.
I'd go with good and tight and sneak up on it to avoid stripping the threads. You can tell when the gaskets are compressed.
Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Charlotte NC
The rocker arm covers on an L98 engine (84-91) are torqued at 50 lb. in. That's about 4 foot pounds. AND, the L98 valve covers are magnesium while yours are plastic (composit).
Soooooo, the answer is "NOT VERY TIGHT" As said above, just snug.
Just make sure that every couple of months or so you re-torque them, otherwise they start leaking oil. Too tight and you will snap the bolts off or bend, crack or break your covers.
Soooooo, the answer is "NOT VERY TIGHT" As said above, just snug.
Just make sure that every couple of months or so you re-torque them, otherwise they start leaking oil. Too tight and you will snap the bolts off or bend, crack or break your covers.
Team Owner
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It's 106 inch-lbs, but using a 1/4" rachet just "finger tip tight" if you don't have a inch-lbs t-wrench.
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