C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Installing Poly One Piece Upper Control Arm Bushing

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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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Default Installing Poly One Piece Upper Control Arm Bushing

Just finished installing them and thought I would pass on what worked well for me.
I did not follow the Energy Suspension instructions. Instead, I supported the back side of the bore with 2 pieces of 3/16" angle iron, catching the sides of bore. I clamped two hose gear clamps between the shoulders of bushing(to give it rigidity), greased the leading lip and used a couple inches of 1" sch 40 PVC pipe between press and bushing.
Once the lip was into bore, I removed the gear clamps and finished off the pressing. Took about 2 minutes each and it was all over.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 02:43 AM
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I have some Prothane poly bushings sitting on the shelf in the garage. Taking my front suspension apart seems pretty difficult and a little scary so I have been putting this off (it's only been a year since I got them).

Tell me how easy this is so I'll be able to tackle this job... ;-)
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 07:16 AM
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Cliff, the job is rather easy.

The only time I used the press was for the one piece bushings. Every other bushings was pushed in by hand. Removing them was almost as easy, using a drill bit and vice grips.
There is nothing scary about the entire job, get out there and do it.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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My primary tool used for installing the bushings was ingenuity.

A 4" vice, sockets, pipe adapters and an occasional third hand was all it takes to remove the old and install the new.

As Dan attests here, you gotta use your head and it really goes easy.

to ya!
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 05:29 AM
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I guess I'm afraid I'll get the old bushings out and then not be able to get the new ones in.

I saw a trick a while back where the guy used the back of his vise (the square part opposite the handle) to press in the bushings by putting the A arm between the vise and the garage wall.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 10:31 AM
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Default bushings

I did mine. I had a guy at the local shop use his huge press, but I built two angle iron spacers and a cross piece to maintain exact spacing. It ended well and took almost no time. The most time was spent drilling out the old ones and then explaining to the press operator what was going on. The car feels great with new bushings. You will be happy with the result.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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How many ft-lbs did you tighten the large nuts on the end of the control arms? I cannot find the setting in any of my manuals.
thanks
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Aluminum threads and nuts IIRC. Too easy to strip.
Make sure the bushings are all fully seated, then....
Take up all the slack (till the washer barely turns by hand) and a half or one flat.
Mark it with a witness mark to ensure it does not loosen.

Mines been fine for 6 years a 40K miles

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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
My primary tool used for installing the bushings was ingenuity.

A 4" vice, sockets, pipe adapters and an occasional third hand was all it takes to remove the old and install the new.

As Dan attests here, you gotta use your head and it really goes easy.

to ya!


This was how I got mine out:



To install the Del-a-Lum ones I bought a Harbor Freight press. BEST $100 I have ever spent. Press fit wheel bearings, bushings, wheel studs, etc have never been simpler.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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does anyone have pics of how they did the front, upper control arm? I had no problems with the lower front or the rears but the front upper has me vexed. The rear sway bar bracket was a pain too. I borrowed a ball joint kit from advance auto to press everything out. The old rubber ones came right out and are actually in pretty good shape. If you press out the metal sleeve first you can then press out the rubber bushing as a whole instead of drilling a million holes in it. It comes right out with the right size fitting from the kit.
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 07:03 AM
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I used this setup in the press to get the old ones out and new ones in,
by cutting a piece of steel exactly the right length and supporting the a-arm so it doesnt flex,

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