Passive Keyless Entry light on
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 610
From: Orange, CA
I have not been able to fix mine. I have three modules and don't believe that all three are bad. I only have one fob and really don't want to dump 250$ in one not knowing. The unique thing about mine is that I can be adjusting my seat and the PKe light will come on a stay on even after shutting car down and removing the key. The light will go off when I reinsert the key into the ignition switch. I have searched the wire diagram is FSM and cannot find the link. ⁉️😕😵
I also wonder what would happen if you were to remove fuses RDO BATT (40) and PKE (26), move the transmitter(s) completely out of range of the car, put the key in the ignition, then reinsert those fuses? The reason why I wonder that is because I wonder if the PKE light on the DIC would start flashing. It could potentially be a short to ground on B6, the Programming Request Input line.
As far as the FSM goes, I would actually start running down the flowchart for "Transmitter Cannot Be Programmed" and see where that gets me.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 288
Likes: 13
From: Engelhard NC
As far as the FSM goes, I would actually start running down the flowchart for "Transmitter Cannot Be Programmed" and see where that gets me.[/QUOTE]
I have tried the diagnosis in the FSM and it is always inconclusive. I will have to go back and recheck the codes because it has been a while since I checked them.
I have tried the diagnosis in the FSM and it is always inconclusive. I will have to go back and recheck the codes because it has been a while since I checked them.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 288
Likes: 13
From: Engelhard NC
Reply
I used pins 4 &12 of the OBD2 connection. Ran auto sequence and no codes. I have used the FSM and ran the PKE trouble shooting procedure and the procedure would not complete. Get to a point and there is no yes or no answer
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 610
From: Orange, CA
The diagnostic procedure for the PKE is completely different. It is also laid out clearly in the FSM. But for your reference, here it is again:
1. Connect pins 5 and 8 on the ALDL connector.
2. Insert key into ignition, but do not turn the key.
The Passive Keyless Entry light will then flash codes...if it is working correctly.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 610
From: Orange, CA
If you connected pins 5 and 8, inserted the key into the ignition, and left the ignition in 'off', and there was no Passive Keyless Entry light whatsoever, then you can only have one of three possible problems.
1. Your PKE Receiver Module has failed.
2. The wiring to the PKE receiver module has failed.
3. The PKE light's bulb is shot.
Since you claim to have gone through at least three completely different modules, then if we assume that all three will not go into diagnostic mode, it's highly unlikely that all three are bad modules. This means the wiring between the module and the car has degraded somewhere. Time to bust out the multimeter and go wire by wire. If the power locks all work then you can at least skip the 8-pin connector and move on to the 16-pin connector. The FSM lists what every wire is and where it goes. Set your multimeter to continuity mode and see if you can figure out where the break is. Since it won't go into diagnostic mode, your best bets are A1 (Ground), A4 (Key In Ignition), A8 (Battery +12V) and B5 (ALDL Pin 8) to start.
1. Your PKE Receiver Module has failed.
2. The wiring to the PKE receiver module has failed.
3. The PKE light's bulb is shot.
Since you claim to have gone through at least three completely different modules, then if we assume that all three will not go into diagnostic mode, it's highly unlikely that all three are bad modules. This means the wiring between the module and the car has degraded somewhere. Time to bust out the multimeter and go wire by wire. If the power locks all work then you can at least skip the 8-pin connector and move on to the 16-pin connector. The FSM lists what every wire is and where it goes. Set your multimeter to continuity mode and see if you can figure out where the break is. Since it won't go into diagnostic mode, your best bets are A1 (Ground), A4 (Key In Ignition), A8 (Battery +12V) and B5 (ALDL Pin 8) to start.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 288
Likes: 13
From: Engelhard NC
The light most definitely works and I have put three modules in it. Have two sitting on a shelf. Thanks for your input, I will get out the multi meter and with your info will help me follow the manual better.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 288
Likes: 13
From: Engelhard NC
So today I was driving through a parking lot and the PKE light comes on. With my old symptoms, the light would come on at random and Not go out until key removed AND put back. This time the light went off as soon as I cut the car off and removed the key
Racer
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 288
Likes: 13
From: Engelhard NC
So, I did a thing today. The fact that the PKE system worked when I bought the car and the failed has me tormented. I have replace the module three times to no avail. So..... I stripped the entire dash system out to get to the components. I have posted extensively on the Corvette forum and it's either the module again, or wiring. Everything in the FSM says module. I find it hard to believe that all three are bad unless something in the car is causing it. Same symptom with each one is the the car will not unlock if keys are left in ignition. The alarm works as it should. Is this diode going to the CCM factory?