hello every one. I decided to open a new thread. about my engine not working proprely.

here is what my engine is doing.

poor cool start. the car star but dies after 5 second.
after trying to start 4 to 5 times the car start an hold and stay running. when get a little hotter. i guest. but the idel is erratic and feel kind of like the rpm are to low. can say exact rpm. since my dash is not working.

if I step on the gas. to fast. the engine dies on me. I have to give gas very slow so the engine dont stop.

I have back fire on the plenum. not on the exhuast. iam preaty sure about that.

I try to give it a test drive and is imposiblem to drive since the car will dye on me.

I have done the timeing and is at 7 btdc. I know is supost to be at 6 btdc. but i try that and the rpm go to low and the car will dye even faster.

I have double check the spark plug wire orther. 3 times. the only thing I can think of . is that my number one cylinder on the distributor is not number one.

I have change fuel injectors. i check for spark . check for injector wire pulse. check vacum leaks. that let me to change the plenum gaskets today.

I have fuel preasure ok. 41 psi.

the running of the engine is very bad. the car hardly moves. is got to be a large mismatch


dont know where to go now. any ideas

 

Now is the time to get serious. You have spark, timing, fuel, and fuel pressure. You have replaced all of the "consumables" plugs, injectors, rotor, cap, and coil. I would check the timing chain next. It only has to jump a tooth or 2 to make the car run terrible.

 

dont want to go that far yet. I did change my harmonic balancer some time ago. I will never want to go neer that place any more.

 

I would do a compression test next.

 

that will be good idea.

 

i was thinking. tell me if this is crazy or not.

at first I had all my injectors clogget. sent it to the shop.the clean and test. 4 were 80% ok the other 4 were no good at all. i true the injectors away.

so now i have 8 new injectors. they all working ok.

my car had more power with the clogged injectors. that with the new injectors.

so Iam thinking. is it possible that my number one cilinder on distributor cap is not really the number one..

before with all the injectors not working properly the car was set in order to work with bad injectors. and now that the injectors are all ok. may be need to be set properly. in order to work

just and idea. is this posible

 

Maybe time to have that mechanic out again & get a second opinion?

 

It is possible, but you can check it, by tracing the spark plug wires with cylinder 1 at TDC. You've done this before, I think, but that is something you might have the mechanic double check.


To answer another way: you know which way the rotor is turning, you know (or can know) where the rotor will be pointing when each cylinder is at TDC, and know how the wires are routed. If all that is correct, then there may still be a subtle timing issue but the basic spark routing is OK.

 

yes that what i was talking about the position of the rotor inside the distributor. I wonders if that really point to number one cylinder when in tdc

after all I never open the distributor cap

 

I really don't think your engine would run if the plug wires were all off by one tower.

Poping out the intake can be caused by an exhaust valve not opening. If this happens, the exhaust gasses get pushed into the intake manifold causing poping and flooding the fresh air with exhaust causing any good cylinders to run like poop.

This is why I suggested a compression test. You will want to test all 8 cylinders. Hopefully it's not a bad cylinder, but you never know.

 

tell me if Iam wrong. back fire true the intake. can be also that the spark plug fire before the intake valve is compleately clouse. causing the explotion go into intake plenum.

so if this is true. it have to be something with my timing. but the thing is I check my timing. with a test light.

to do a compresion test I will have to get the proper tool .

for some reason i keep thinking about bat timing.

 

I read some where that old cap and rotor can be causing this. I hava never check that any way

 

A peek in there might be interesting.

 

the one root cause "sounds like" ignition timing is WAY retarded, and two wires are crossed.
if you have not checked #1 wire position or removed cap to verify anything, do that first. ck inside cap for cracks, dust, fingerprints, etc.
route all wires on top of the engine so you can assure they are correct. verify that rotor points to #1 wire when at TDC COMPRESSION, and that all wires are correct. after dozens of posts you should know the basics of firing order, etc. review your old posts for instructions and pics.

set timing with EST wire disconnected, then reconnect. 6-10 degress BTDC is close enough for now. tighten dist hold down clamp and verify timing before re-attaching EST.

if timing is verified correct, and wires/plugs are correct, the cause(s) lie elsewhere.

I believe all of this was suggested many moons ago by me and others.

 

I will double check everything regarding timing again tonight. this time i will open the distributor cap and check rotor position on tdc .

I get bakc here. see what i find out

 

just found a distributor picture from another member here. he clearly mark the number on the dist. cap.
In my cap number one cylinder is on position 8 on this picture.

just like to know if this is an standar number one position.
here is the picture

[IMG][/IMG]

 

someone said when you posted this long ago that it does not matter where #1 is in the cap, as long as the rotor points to it at #1 TDC Compression. your wires are standard for the HEI -1 is where his 8 is. again, it is personal preference, and standardization.

the problem we will have is that the wire boots themselves need to be marked, otherwise they disappear under the engine and you are guessing which one is what. I use a simple red dot(s) system.
on this photo I could swap half the wires in the cap and you'd never know.
whatever works.

saludos,
joe

 

Check the timing chain...

 

It doesn't matter which hole the spark plug wires are in as long as the firing order is correct and the distributor shaft is turned so that the rotor points to #1 when that cylinder is at TDC.

Here's how I mark my plug wires -- white paint and a Sharpie:

 

Have you checked for any stored codes in ECM, yet ?
Is the TPS idle voltage set ?