Did you remember the 4 pin connector at base of distributor, when reinstalling it ?

 

yes

i Have the bat plug in. also the tach .
And the 4 pin conector is plug in also.


One question about this 4 pin conector. Not sure if this go in only one way in. I was thinking may be i had it the other way arown

tomorrow i will do some test to distribuir

like to be sure about this 4 pin conector

 

The 4 pin distributor connector is keyed/polarized so that it only goes together one way. I suppose you could force it together backwards, but that would be hard to do.

The 4 pin connector sends the distributor reference pulses to the ECM and the ECM sends the timing back to the distributor module. You can bypass this connection by opening the EST connector near the windshield wiper motor (the same connector you open to set the timing). Opening this connector will remove the ECM from the distributor circuit.

If there is still a problem with the EST connector disconnected, then it's probably a bad ignition module, pickup coil (under the rotor) or distributor coil (in the top of the distributor cap).

 

ecm does not control spark output. it uses inputs, and conrols timing, from my understanding.

follow the fsm, chart c-4. 1a says disconnect the 4 pin plug, ck for spark. if spark, replace pick up coil. if no spark, ck volt at bat terminal while cranking, should be 7 or more.
if ok, ck tach terminal same way, but should be 10 or more.

all the tests are done with 4 pin ecm connector disconnected, if the fsm is correct.

if it was producing spark before, it is likely that you changed something while working on it. ck all terminals in the cap for proper connections. it is not likely that the coils or the icm failed just by removing distributor..

 

ok I did some test

first i have power on bat ok 12 plus volts with the key to on. 11 plus volts when cranking.

test the tack. key on get nothing. get pulse ok when cranking

no spark on spark plug

i found an articule that show some step by step test. and point me to bad coil.

is there any way I can check my coil with a meter. I have the coil on my table at this time.

next you will find the step by step instruction iam talking about.

I get a blink on the tack conector when cranking. but no spark. it say on the article. I have a bad ignition coil.

 

The easiest way to test a module on the car is to ensure that the wiring & pickup coil are OK. The module is essentially an amplifier with a built in analog to digital convertor.


Easy tests for HEI system:

1. Test for power at the pink BAT terminal. You should have battery voltage w/ the key in the start and RUN positions.

2. Connect the ground side of your test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while a helper attempts to start the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink= bad module or pickup coil. Further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. Blink but no spark = bad ignition coil.

3. Remove the cap & rotor. Remove the green & white leads from the module. Connect your ohmmeter to the green & white leads. You should have approx. 800-1500 ohms depending on the ambient temperature. Open circuit (infinite ohms) = bad pickup coil.

Wiggle the green & white leads as you test. Ohm reading should remain constant if the leads are good. If the reading varies as the leads are wiggled, the pickup coil is bad. You'll often find broken pickup coil leads this way.

4. DVOM (meter) still connected to green & white leads. Set your DVOM to AC VOLTS. Have a helper crank the engine as you watch the AC VOLTS reading. A good pickup coil will produce about 3V AC when cranking. Less than approx. 2V AC indicates a bad pickup coil.

 

pty, the tests you describe appear to be saying faulty coil or connections. fsm is slightly different tests but if you showed no volts at tach terminal, key on -not cranking, as I erroneously said earlier- the book says to replace coil.

as I recall, you have an fsm. the tests are chart c-4, also 6d section HEI.

trace back to what you did when pulling distributor. that should not have killed the coil, IF it was sparking before. engine was running, correct?

joe

 

new development.

I mist understand the instructions. the first time I disconect the 3 pin conector. not the 4 pin conector.

so this second time I disconect the 4 pin conector.

start the car and this time I have spark ok

them I reconect the 4 pin conector and look for spark again. this time no spark

so If I umplug the 4 pin conector I have spark. If I plug in I have no spark


one question come up. If I have spark. with the 4 pin conector umplug. the car supusto run or not???????

 

when i crack the car. i get blink on tach connector

 

it you had the coil wires unplugged, 3 pin connector instead of 4 pin, most of the diagnosis is useless.

now, with 4 pin disconnected, you have spark, but NO SPARK with it connected, "the book" says pickup coil is faulty. -too low output for EST -electronic spark timing- output

you can use the tests you posted and verify pu coil. it will likely be intermittent when wiggling the two leads, meaning terminall ends.

 

if i have the 4 pin connectors umplugs, and I get spark. tell me if this condition prevent the car from running any way,.

I guest that is a yes.

the thing is iam not realy sure if the pick up coil is the problem. just dont want to go out and buy a pick up coil. just to find out the car not running.

 

the ecm needs the reference signal from the dist module to fire injectors. so, yes, the 4 pin has to be connected to run. engine will run with the tan wire disconnected but will not have spark timing advance.

get some other opinions, pty. I have rebuilt mine and one other HEI but am not an expert. from what you describe -IF I follow it- the pu coil is faulty.

again, if no spark when cranking with all wires connected, but spark with 4 pin connector unplugged, the book says it is pu coil. run the tests that you posted to verify.

 

ok cool. make since. thank you.

the fact is. when I disconect the 4 pin connectors I did get spark.

 

good luck pty

 

If you have spark then the pickup coil and the ignition coil are both good.

Try disconnecting the EST connector. If you have spark then the ECM has a problem.

Did you move the blue MEMCAL module from the old ECM to the new ECM? If the MEMCAL is for an engine with 4 or 6 cylinders then the ECM will not run. You should have a BUA MEMCAL. You can see what kind it is by looking through the round hole and reading the silver label inside it. This one is a ARPL:

 

[QUOTE=Cliff Harris;1581381814]If you have spark then the pickup coil and the ignition coil are both good.

Try disconnecting the EST connector. If you have spark then the ECM has a problem.

QUOTE]

Cliff, this does not agree with the FSM. chart c-4 says -once you have verified no spark- "if you show spark with EST connector disconnected, pickup coil is too low output for est operation."

I understood that hitmanpty changed the prom. maybe he did not. but, if you can trust the fsm -which is a big IF, since it has many errors in it- a spark issue is contained within the distributor and associated wiring, not the ecm.

a healthy distributor should fire with est harness on or off, if I read the chart correctly. the HEI was around many years before the ecm..

joe

 

I use the chip from the old computer . The new one i get did not Have the chip away.

Also today i get me self a new pickup coil it costa me $16.00 dollars new.
I will install this week then i have a chance .

I rally hope the problem Have no t
hing to do with the ecm

 

ok spend all morning on the car today.
almost rebuild the distributor.
I get new cap and rotor. new ignition coil, new pickup coil. the only thing I did not change was the moduel. i can not get it dow here.

re instal the distributor tray to start again. and same problem no spark. on the spark plug.

I did not had the chance to test the spark with the 4 pin conector off. because Is started to rain

any way Iam preaty sure it will be the same condition. if I umplug the 4 ping I will get spark.

Iam bigining to think. that the used ecm i get 2 weeks ago. it was also bad.

 

here are some pic from todays work on distributor
old coil
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

 

I know this is old post. but I just want to tell every one here. what was the problem at the end. yes the problem was bad ecm. but the one I get the first time was also bad. so at the end I order a ecm from ebay. and problem solve