C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

no spark from the top

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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 04:01 PM
  #21  
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here you can see the new coil. all wires connectet
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #22  
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ttttt
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #23  
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you have a carbon button in the botom of coil, to contact rotor?
my suspicion is that whatever was causing the intermittent or weak spark is still there.

was the previous spark blue, or yellow? was it constant, or so so? Sporadic?
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 05:40 PM
  #24  
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I remeber that the spark before was stronger that all I can say about that

I can say that the spark now is very small and yellow.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by joe paco
you have a carbon button in the botom of coil, to contact rotor?
my suspicion is that whatever was causing the intermittent or weak spark is still there.

was the previous spark blue, or yellow? was it constant, or so so? Sporadic?
yes it was a new botton that came with the new coil. and the old one was looking ok.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #26  
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I took a video but after upload to photobucket. is very hart to see the spark on the video.
so I decidet not to post that video
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 08:03 PM
  #27  
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have you unhooked the 4 pin ecm connector, just to see the reaction? if you have a blue spark, it suggests that the distributor is not making a strong spark.

HEI needs 12v at the batt connection, pu coil, ICM, and coil, to make spark. the ecm eats up some of the dist output IF it is weak, so that the primary coil winding is not energized. more or less.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by joe paco
have you unhooked the 4 pin ecm connector, just to see the reaction? if you have a blue spark, it suggests that the distributor is not making a strong spark.

HEI needs 12v at the batt connection, pu coil, ICM, and coil, to make spark. the ecm eats up some of the dist output IF it is weak, so that the primary coil winding is not energized. more or less.
will check that tomorrow se what i get.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #29  
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Let me see if i get this right . if i have weak volts on the bat conector .the the ecm will eat some volt making a unsuficient energía foro the distributor to work properly .

tomorrow fiat i will check 12 v on bat. the i will umplog 4 pino conector and check spark
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 11:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
That would have to be a GM generic graphic, as I have never seen it in any of the electrical schematics.

Just to be sure, I just went and looked, and no terminal in "D".

I just rechecked my FSM and sure enough. Long ago I highlighted the pins that had wires in them and D is NOT highlighted. Thanks for the reality check. I just happened to remember that connection but didn't look closely enough. That connection is now crossed off in my FSM.

You can get to the SES light connection on the ECM. It's pin A5.
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 07:58 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
Let me see if i get this right . if i have weak volts on the bat conector .the the ecm will eat some volt making a unsuficient energía foro the distributor to work properly .

tomorrow fiat i will check 12 v on bat. the i will umplog 4 pino conector and check spark
you only hear what you expect to hear, hitmanpty!

the 12v is only one of several requirements for spark. read it again.

assuming all connectors are functiional, grounds, etc, there are 2 coils and 1 module. you should be able to verify the distrubutor by following the checks that you posted, or by the fsm chart c-4, "ignition system check."
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 01:17 PM
  #32  
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I just test the bat conector at the distributor. iam getting 11.7 volt ( it say on my instruction I sure be gettint 12.v)

also test the battery positive and negative I get 11.9 v to 12.v fluctuation, but more like 11.9 .v

maybe my battery is weak because all the times I had crank the engine traying to start the car.

may be that is the problem, but week battery was never a issue before. if the starter turn, my engine with start. also keep in my I have brand new starter and work like magic.

I will do the 4 pin conector later today. because the conectors are behind the distributor is dificult to reach. so I be needing a little be more time for that one.

about the pick up coil. is new. dont think need to test that one, also the ignition coil is brand new. no need to check that. cap and rotor, are new also.

the only thing is the distributor control module. have not check that one. I think you need special tools or something to check. or replace with know good one for test. so the dist. control module is a mistery to me

Last edited by hitmanpty; Aug 5, 2012 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hitmanpty
I just test the bat conector at the distributor. iam getting 11.7 volt ( it say on my instruction I sure be gettint 12.v)

also test the battery positive and negative I get 11.9 v to 12.v fluctuation, but more like 11.9 .v

maybe my battery is weak because all the times I had crank the engine traying to start the car.

may be that is the problem, but week battery was never a issue before. if the starter turn, my engine with start. also keep in my I have brand new starter and work like magic.

I will do the 4 pin conector later today. because the conectors are behind the distributor is dificult to reach. so I be needing a little be more time for that one.

about the pick up coil. is new. dont think need to test that one, also the ignition coil is brand new. no need to check that. cap and rotor, are new also.

the only thing is the distributor control module. have not check that one. I think you need special tools or something to check. or replace with know good one for test. so the dist. control module is a mistery to me
the voltage is not the problem, should make spark with 10v.
you can unplug the EST tan wire connector by the battery to see what reaction you get, rather than the 4 terminal plug.

if you had followed your own test that you posted weks ago, that should lead you to the problem, correct? it probably is not the ecm, so what does that leave? I sent a PM a week ago, suggested you try another module.
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #34  
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i disconect the 4 pin conector about 30 minutos ago i get same result weak spark.
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #35  
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so you think can be the module
i look allí over this town and no body Have the module. in this little contra of my.

so i will Have to order from from internet .

one question . do a weak spark can cost a no start situation ?
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #36  
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hello every one. just want to update on my no start situation.

I finally call a mecanic. he manage to start the car and did some minor ajustment. the did use a ecm code reader. In my opinion, that did not help. since the ecm is new and i had never start the car with that new ecm.

the car is working find now. still need more tunning but like I say the car is working. now I can start to consentrate on some other cosmetic repears.


I belive, every body is thinking, what was the problem.

well I ask that same question to the mecanic. and he did not give me an direct answer.

i guest he dont want me to know how easy it was. he charge me $200 and he came home to fix the car. i think is ok price.

at the end he change spark plug. did some timing ajustment on the distributor. fix the MAF. it have a loose wire. I think in the future i can see a new MAF sensor.

my guest. the car had like 3 0r 4 little problems. and all togeather, preventing the car to start.

some times you get so deep on a problem, that you forgot to look the little things.

one thing i like to say. with all the changes I made and all the part i change. like pickup coil, ingnition coil, spark plugs, intake gaskets new ecm new injectors. the car runng a 1000 times better.

thank you all for all your help

Last edited by hitmanpty; Aug 12, 2012 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #37  
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Excelente
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 09:35 AM
  #38  
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sweet!
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