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I am new to this. I followed the procedure but when trying to read the code the radiator fan comes on also the OD light. The engine was not quite cold yet. about 130. Is this normal? Its an 86 4+3 .all original. about 17 K miles. It runs pretty good. Service engine light comes on after warm up. 32 was the only code it gave me.
I too just got that code this AM. It is to do with your EGR system. I noticed that my wire to the EGR temp switch came off. Tonight when I get home I'll resolder it and shrink wrap it. Hopefully it will fix the issue. If I have to replace the switch I'll be sure to buy it from keen parts bc I've seen them as high as $300 on eBay
Loosely speaking, code 32 indicates the temp switch is open or closed when it shouldn't be. It can be adjusted, but replacements are available---the $300+ ebay days are over (last time I checked).
I just unscrewed the little bitty tip off of it then put slid the wire in and taped it. Cleared the code an took it for a 10 mile ride & no code yet. I'll solder it in this weekend. I couldn't evenake out how I'd unscrew the whole sensor if I had too because it looks welded on :-(
I too just got that code this AM. It is to do with your EGR system. I noticed that my wire to the EGR temp switch came off. Tonight when I get home I'll resolder it and shrink wrap it. Hopefully it will fix the issue. If I have to replace the switch I'll be sure to buy it from keen parts bc I've seen them as high as $300 on eBay
Also, check the RGR valve isn't sticking open, the EGR solenoid connector wires are still in the connector and making contact, the vacuum hoses on the EGR solenoid aare in good shape, then plastic lines under the plenum are intact.
Gunner, the temp switch gets really hot. solder will melt. try adding some really fine wire in the place where the wire goes and lightly crimping the wire into the switch.
Thanks coupeguy, I'll do that. So far it's been 30 miles and no code. Tomorrow if the weather is clear I'll drive it to work 120 miles round trip to verify
Thanks to everyone, I am a decent mechanic,but not experienced on cars. When your golf ball moves quickly and smoothly across the green you can thank your local golf course mechanic. Thanks again, when I dig in this winter to deal with the EGR, it would be a good time for new injectors also, right?
When the ECM commands EGR, it turn on the EGR solenoid, which applies vacuum from the throttle body to the EGR valve, which opens. When the EGR valve opens, hot exhaust gas flows through the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. If the EGR thermal switch gets hot it grounds the wire connection to the ECM. If the ECM does NOT see that ground after commanding EGR it sets error code 32.
This is a test of the whole EGR system. The wiring, vacuum lines, EGR solenoid, EGR valve and the EGR thermal switch all need to be working correctly to keep from getting the error code 32. You need to check all of these things to make sure all are working (and find which one(s) is not). In my case, I had a bad EGR solenoid which caused the EGR valve to get stuck since it wasn't working.
A side note: you can't just ground the EGR thermal switch wire to make the error go away. The ECM checks that switch at startup and if it's grounded (which it should not be since the switch is relatively cold) it will also set error code 32. I think they should have used a different number, but there it is...
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Aug 10, 2012 at 01:35 AM.
FWIW, I removed my EGR a long time ago. I just terminated the wire to temp switch and it never set a code for the 2 years(custom chip now with EGR disabled)
That being said, there is a good chance your switch is grounded all the time.
I thought, from what I read a while back in the FSM, just grounding the temp switch lead will trigger a code 32 too. Can't check though:
If you look hard you can see the temp switch lead to the right of the red do-hicky (technical term).
Engine's still available, by the way...
Wait a second...just remembered...my switch was always closed (i.e. grounded) and was triggering a code 32. I unscrewed it a few turns so it wouldn't close till heating up & no more codes.
Last edited by 3D87C4; Aug 10, 2012 at 02:32 PM.
Reason: Remembered something...
After about 100 miles the code came back. I reseated the wire during lunch break( took coupeguy's advice and did a better job this time) and so far 60 miles not code 32
Aha! Just the guy I want to talk to. In another thread I speculated that the back of the throttle blades gets dirty because of EGR (the air going through the throttle body is filtered, so there's nothing dirty in it). Same applies to IAC passage -- how does that get dirty?
I thought it might be oil vapor from the PCV valve, but that goes into the intake manifold, which comes way later in the air flow, or does it? I guess it could be reversion in the runners. I really need to check into exactly how all these passages are connected inside the plenum/runners/intake manifold. EGR and cold start injector and PCV.
So, do your throttle blades get dirty on the back?
Unplug the EGR relay and clear codes. If code comes back on startup,this is caused by the EGR temperature switch grounding out. Check the wire that it's not pinched or grounding.