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Is there a way to isolate a stuck open injector? Symptoms are a fuel pump that runs longer than a few seconds, slightly lumpy idle, popping during deceleration, gas smell on oil dipstick, gas smell in TB with key on and fuel pump running. Also, I can hear the whirring sound in the fuel rails with my stethoscope when the key is on, suggesting to me there is fuel flowing, but I cant seem to isolate it that way, I hear the same sound on all injectors. The sound is probably resonating through all the metal parts. I did a leak down some time ago and I dont remember the specific numbers, but it did hit about 41psi and held it with key on and for a few minutes with key off, but it was down to 20 psi within 10 minutes IIRC. Anyone have what it should be so I can repeat? Also, any way to block of the return line with the steel braided fuel lines? I am pretty sure it is in the injectors, but just to be thorough....
Other background, I have a set of Ford Crown Vic PN injectors (age unknown) same set I have seen at one of the vendors linked here FIM maybe?, there are no retaining clips otherwise I would just take the rail off and look for which one is leaking, without the clips, the pressure just shoots them off the rail. also I have some LT headers otherwise I would just take plugs out, but they are hard to access with the header. They all ohm OK and I can hear them all clicking away when running.
So all that said, is there a slick way to isolate it to the specific bad injector or should I just suck it up and remove the plugs? Any recommendations on places to rebuild/clean injectors? Since the history is unknown, the whole set might benefit from a service.
I had the same problem on my '93 although I did not know it, just knew somethinf was not right. So to eliminate another problem I pulled all the injectors and took them to a fuel injector shop for a rebuild. They found one stuck open and two low flow, they repaired them and calibrated all of them for $14 each. Cheapest fix on that car to date. Not sure where you live this was in Redding CA.
why not just get a new set that are flow matched with all the new o-rings and new gaskets and the latest design from Bosch? $250 ain;t bad. Your stock injectors are junk anyway. Antiques and not very good quality to begin with.
why not just get a new set that are flow matched with all the new o-rings and new gaskets and the latest design from Bosch? $250 ain;t bad. Your stock injectors are junk anyway. Antiques and not very good quality to begin with.
Call Jon.
Do you have a source? I don't know who Jon is. I agree, $250 isnt that bad considering its $15-20 per injector for a service and match and I would have to send it off becuase I can't find anyone local in NH/MA that does it. Thanks
Search FIC. Look at you-tube as well. Jon is the owner and a genius. The most helpful guy in the auto industry.
Do NOT buy injectors bigger than what you have unless you have a performance built engine. Injectors are made to fit the demand, not something that you upgrade to gain performance. The computer has to know what they are and operates them based on the rest of the engines needs.
If you Call Jon he will know (yours are likely 22 lb/hr).
I am kind of surprised that not every Corvette owner has heard of FIC. They offer the best deal ever for fuel injectors. Always have. If accel sells 1 set of injectors, FIC sells 20.
BTW..none of the inj that Jon sells are the stock Corvette inj because they are junk to start with and the reason why so many guys have problems. I don't think he even cleans those...just tosses them. Fishing weights.
Watch the FIC videos and you can learn lots about this. There are also some good "how to" videos.
Good luck
Also, how are injectors spec'ed out? I have no idea if I should get 24lb/hr or higher.
Again , call Jon, he can sell you the injectors to fit your car.. Also, having the injectors rebuilt won't do any good, they still won't be ethanol complient and will fail from the ethanol fuels we use today..The only permenent solution is to get a set that are ethanol complient....Call Jon..........WW
Here is the site, look at some of the videos also....WW
OK, thanks guys. I have heard of FIC, just couldnt remember it and I havent had to deal with this before, only got the car in March. The injectors that are in there are not stock, they are blue with Ford PN F5DEB5A. Might be the "blue demons" linked below? Those appear to be 33lb/hr though. I will contact Jon and follow his advice.
The car does have some mods (Opened up intake, 52mm Tb, headers) and probably should be tuned eventually. Without taking it all apart, I can't tell if it has any other mods to the top or bottom end. Even if the injectors are overkill, a tune would straighten that out right?
OK, thanks guys. I have heard of FIC, just couldnt remember it and I havent had to deal with this before, only got the car in March. The injectors that are in there are not stock, they are blue with Ford PN F5DEB5A. Might be the "blue demons" linked below? Those appear to be 33lb/hr though. I will contact Jon and follow his advice.
The car does have some mods (Opened up intake, 52mm Tb, headers) and probably should be tuned eventually. Without taking it all apart, I can't tell if it has any other mods to the top or bottom end. Even if the injectors are overkill, a tune would straighten that out right?
Im running just under 400 hp and using #24 lb injectors, so if your engine is close to stock it would definitly be overkill with #33 lb.. If your getting new injectors anyway, your better off with injectors that are close to what you need instead of trying to tune for injectors that are way to big...WW
I agree with those who say Jon is the man if you need to replace injectors, good product and incredible customer service. That said since you have an LT1 isolating the one that leaks is pretty simple. Remove the fuel rail from the intake leaving the fuel lines attached, place it over a clean sheet of cardboard and pressurize the fuel rail by turning they key to the ON position (not START) if you have a leaking injector you should see it drip.
This would probably take all of 15 minutes on an LT1, L98's are different story.
Problem for me is I dont have the retention clips that hold the injectors in place so they have been known to pop out of the rail under pressure and **** gas all over my driveway. I will probably end up rigging something to go this route though, becuase it is still probably easier than taking out the front plugs with the headers in the way.
to located a bad injector first you need a fuel preasure gauge.. connect the fuel preasure to gauge to the rail. key to on position you mos get something clouse to 40 psi.
if the preasure drop to fast you have a leak injector.
If one injector is bad most likely is because is old injector. and if one of the injector is old. them all the injectors most be old.
Is there a way to isolate a stuck open injector? Symptoms are a fuel pump that runs longer than a few seconds, slightly lumpy idle, popping during deceleration, gas smell on oil dipstick, gas smell in TB with key on and fuel pump running. Also, I can hear the whirring sound in the fuel rails with my stethoscope when the key is on, suggesting to me there is fuel flowing, but I cant seem to isolate it that way, I hear the same sound on all injectors. The sound is probably resonating through all the metal parts. I did a leak down some time ago and I dont remember the specific numbers, but it did hit about 41psi and held it with key on and for a few minutes with key off, but it was down to 20 psi within 10 minutes IIRC. Anyone have what it should be so I can repeat? Also, any way to block of the return line with the steel braided fuel lines? I am pretty sure it is in the injectors, but just to be thorough....
Other background, I have a set of Ford Crown Vic PN injectors (age unknown) same set I have seen at one of the vendors linked here FIM maybe?, there are no retaining clips otherwise I would just take the rail off and look for which one is leaking, without the clips, the pressure just shoots them off the rail. also I have some LT headers otherwise I would just take plugs out, but they are hard to access with the header. They all ohm OK and I can hear them all clicking away when running.
So all that said, is there a slick way to isolate it to the specific bad injector or should I just suck it up and remove the plugs? Any recommendations on places to rebuild/clean injectors? Since the history is unknown, the whole set might benefit from a service.
Start the car and then pull the connector off of each injector one at a time. You should feel a difference in how the car runs, but it would be easier with a scanner because you can observe the BLM and O2. You can pinch the return line at the filler door, just remove the rubber cover and the fuel lines are right there. Pinch the return line, pressurize the fuel rail and observe what happens. You should prabably pull the plugs, they'll also tell you which cylinders are running rich. I don't subscribe to replacing parts without finding the root cause first, but to each their own.
A leaky injector will wash out your cylinder causing bigger problems, if it gets in your oil it will wash the bearings again causing major problems and raw fuel in the exhaust will kill your cat.
Good luck.
just pull your spark plugs. you will know which ones are bad in an instant.
First, remove plug wires and add a piece of tape with the cylinder numbers, break all of them loose so they are finger tight, turn on the key, turn it off, then remove the plugs, one by one. use a piece of tape to identify the plugs as removed.