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87 Won't start

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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 03:11 PM
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Default 87 Won't start

I have an 87 corvette, manual and all of a sudden it wouldn't start. It happened once while I was out and after about 10 or 15 min of trying it finally started and I got it home. However now I can't get it started again. All the normal lights come on when i turn the key but it doesn't crank. The security light does not come on. I hear no noise, clicking or anything like that from the starter (Which was replace about a year ago). I bypassed the clutch neutral switch. I'm kind of at a loss. Anyone have any ideas for me to try?
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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VGM,

I was just reading through the 1987 Owner's Manual and thought I would mention that maybe you have an issue with the resistor pellet in the ignition key. Have you tried one of your other keys? Is the key and the ignition key slot clean?

Maybe this will help you. If not, good luck.

Mike
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Vgm
I have an 87 corvette, manual and all of a sudden it wouldn't start. It happened once while I was out and after about 10 or 15 min of trying it finally started and I got it home. However now I can't get it started again. All the normal lights come on when i turn the key but it doesn't crank. The security light does not come on. I hear no noise, clicking or anything like that from the starter (Which was replace about a year ago). I bypassed the clutch neutral switch. I'm kind of at a loss. Anyone have any ideas for me to try?
go by the book. if security is not on steady, key is probaby being read. not positive here because I am not familiar with vats on teh 87.
begin with the purple wire on the starter solenoid, should show 12v with key in START. if it does, and you want to verify the terminal connection, use a short piece of wire and jump from the positive batt lug on starter to the purple terminal, key onor off. if starter engages, solenoid is defective..

if no 12v, work back towards ignition. neurtal bypass, starter relay, ignition switch.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. Im going to try and see if its the starter. Il let you know if thats what it was.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Vgm
Thanks for the suggestions. Im going to try and see if its the starter. Il let you know if thats what it was.
"starter solenoid," not starter. it may be the starter but you heard no click, so solenoid not engaging the Bendix gear to flywheel.

any tests should come after trying another key, but I think security stays on steady if key is not read, like on 91, but not sure about yours. security should blink until key is inserted and then go off if key is read.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
"starter solenoid," not starter. it may be the starter but you heard no click, so solenoid not engaging the Bendix gear to flywheel.

any tests should come after trying another key, but I think security stays on steady if key is not read, like on 91, but not sure about yours. security should blink until key is inserted and then go off if key is read.
Joe, on 86-89, the security light is only for the theft deterrent alarm. They chip in key is handled by a separate VATS module.

VGM, see if there is a code 46 stored in ECM.
Do you know how to check for stored codes ?

After that, I would start from starter solenoid and back, as stated.
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Joe, on 86-89, the security light is only for the theft deterrent alarm. They chip in key is handled by a separate VATS module.

VGM, see if there is a code 46 stored in ECM.
Do you know how to check for stored codes ?

After that, I would start from starter solenoid and back, as stated.
thanks guy! I should remember, Calderone has an 87, had a no crank-no click issue.

My first instinct, now, is that key is not being read. no lights dimming, no noise, generally means no current flow thru relay or to solenoid. but everything is suspected until verified ok.

joe
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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I replaced the starter and solenoid and it wasn't that, same problem. My Dad used a tool that bypasses the solenoid? and it cranks starts then dies instantly? Ive used two separate keys neither worked. I havent checked codes so I'll do that and see.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Vgm
I replaced the starter and solenoid and it wasn't that, same problem. My Dad used a tool that bypasses the solenoid? and it cranks starts then dies instantly? Ive used two separate keys neither worked. I havent checked codes so I'll do that and see.
did you check for 12V at the solenoid terminal with key in the START position? that was the first thing you were to do before changing anything. it's hard to tell what you have now. new solenoid is bypassed? if you're jumping hot to solenoid to engage the starter, and the vats is not signaling the ecm, it won't run.
the first indication is that the solenoid does or does not not have 12v in start mode. not enough information here to know.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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I checked my codes today and I'm getting a code 46 vehicle anti-theft fault. I assume that would be the root of the problem but I'm at a loss of how to go about fixing it
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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It's been a while since I worked on one of these but I believe the ignition lock cylinder has a couple of wires to read the key resistance pellet. Over the years they break so you now have an open circuit and the key does not get read. If I remember correctly you can pull off the hush panel at the bottom of the steering column to access the harness connector. You can then insert the key into the lock cylinder, take the connector apart and measure the key side for an open. You'll need a manual or maybe someone here can chime in as to which connector it is. I believe it's a two wire connector that uses small gauge wires, possibly the same color.

Gary
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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measure resistance between each side of the key pellet. that will get you to the key code in case you want to install a resistor to bypass the vats. as the man said, may be wires inside of ign switch, or may be dirty contacts. you can spray an electrical cleaner into the lock, that might help, not likely, but easy.

post the key reading and someone will have the chart to get the number, 1-15 or so. I have it if I can locate it.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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O'Reilys auto parts has a good picture of the lock cylinder with the wiring harness.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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Another option if you or any buddies can burn chips is to disable the VATS flag in the computer.
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