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Alright, I got a 700r4 behind my 383 stroker. All of us know pretty much how quick that first shift to second gear is in drive or overdrive so I like to manually shift it. Here is the problem, I can only get my shifter to second gear, it wont go down into first gear manually. Im either thinking its the shifter cable, a tight boot, or something jammed in there. If anyone has any imput or has had this problem, please lemme know how you fixed it. I would really love to be able to hold first because thats a huge powerband. Thanks everyone
Irrespective of your shifter problem the fast upshift is because of ultra low 3.07 1st gear
I found the revs pulled up so quick in 1st I could not manually shift 1-2 fast enough before the engine readlined so best times
were done starting with the shifter in 2nd and letting the trans do the 1- 2 shift
Irrespective of your shifter problem the fast upshift is because of ultra low 3.07 1st gear
I found the revs pulled up so quick in 1st I could not manually shift 1-2 fast enough before the engine readlined so best times
were done starting with the shifter in 2nd and letting the trans do the 1- 2 shift
So you are saying it really wouldnt make a difference if I could pull down into first? and too leave it in second so it can do the natural shift from 1st to 2nd?
My 89 had the same problem when I got it...The cable needs to be adjusted, plan and simple.. My 700r4 shifts from 1st to 2nd pretty quick, then it doesn't shift into 3rd until somewhere between 40-47 mph depending on how hard the petal is mashed down..I have reset my torque convertor lockup to 53 mph and the unlock at 49 mph, this seems to fit the way my 383 runs better then the stock setting did.....WW
I've had a similar problem with mine. Here's a quick thing to check before diving in to anything more involved. The shift boot on mine was bunching up behind the shifter and not allowing me to pull it back all the way to 1st. Before taking the car out of Park, grab the back of the shift boot and pull it up so there's no chance of it bunching up. Keep it pulled up as you move the shifter back in to 1st. That cured my problem. If that doesn't work then you may have to look at a cable adjustment.
I've had a similar problem with mine. Here's a quick thing to check before diving in to anything more involved. The shift boot on mine was bunching up behind the shifter and not allowing me to pull it back all the way to 1st. Before taking the car out of Park, grab the back of the shift boot and pull it up so there's no chance of it bunching up. Keep it pulled up as you move the shifter back in to 1st. That cured my problem. If that doesn't work then you may have to look at a cable adjustment.
That is what I was going to suggest. The boot does collect down in the bottom. Unbunch it like your panties.
Irrespective of your shifter problem the fast upshift is because of ultra low 3.07 1st gear
I found the revs pulled up so quick in 1st I could not manually shift 1-2 fast enough before the engine readlined so best times
were done starting with the shifter in 2nd and letting the trans do the 1- 2 shift
That's very true, but sometimes during street driving where traction isn't so good, I'll hold mine in 1st and run it up a little part throttle before nailing it. It'll help stop smoking off the tires or having the backend jump sideways
haha you guys are awesome I tell ya. Im a youngin and I've been slightly getting my feet wetter and wetter the last couple years with this ride. I love it though. I figured if I could hold first a little longer i could JUMP into second so I could at least have a nice 1/8 mile time. That tuned tpi 383 is nice for the street, but 1/4 mile im sure is a different story. hahaha silly RPM range
I ran a 3.73 rear with my 383 and 700r4. Had really good launches and ran low 11's.
WOWOW. Thats absolutely awesome. I love seeing the older school c4s keeping up or just flat out whoopin the new vettes or camaros. Your setup sounds awesome. Im rockin the tpi with ported intake and runners, aluminum L98 heads, but are "improved" with machine work, and the biggest cam possible without a stall. All computer dyno tuned..shes a work in progress but love 'er
Id get the trans set up so it shifts on its own where you want it usually more consistent than manually shifting. Not like the old T350s...
Get a converter and a sticky tire for the 1/8 youll be much happier
Id get the trans set up so it shifts on its own where you want it usually more consistent than manually shifting. Not like the old T350s...
Get a converter and a sticky tire for the 1/8 youll be much happier
That's why I switched to a 4l60e. Full and part throttle shifts are dialed in on a laptop. At the strip, put it in drive and hit the go pedal. Makes for a deadly consistant bracket car.
All right guys, thanks for the input. Thats a big help. That 4L60E sounds tempting, yet so does a built 700r4 tuned right. HA, so many options. What is yalls favorite street strip tire for the rear? I got eleven inch wide z rated 275 series all the way around, but the back needs more stick and width, yet able to still travel decent. any ideas?
I have a falken tire and boy does it grip at the track(mind you it was a stock 350 tpi) I'm hoping it still somewhat hooks with a 383
Did you notice any big gain from a 350 to your 383? I don't want to rev her out like most people I want something that is low reving but makes tons of torque and enough power to keep some of the newer cars at bay
Z52 here too, like they said above the boot might be there in place not letting you reach the full shifter travel, nice mindset , i love to think in beating newer cars on my 87, it's priceless ! I have a set of Nitto 555R's on the rears, but they are not sticky enough for the dragway but for the street they are night and day compared to the HTZR II Sumitomos i used to have unless you like to spin and do rolling burnouts...im getting addicted to the track so that's why i'm getting Mickey Thompson ET Streets, i need maximum hook on the track and the 555R's don't cut it on my local track (non vht) ....btw if you are hooking ,you'll want to upgrade to a Dana44 , well , it's a neverending story...but a nice and worthy one !
Haha I ll tell you guys what, to the guy wondering about the 383, yes, HUGE power difference. Of course it is a nightmare unless you have the right mechanic and tuner. Usually a dyno and computer is needed, but with that tpi, especially if you port intake plenums runners etcs...run some nice heads, even stock machined, bigger cam, you ll can easily hit the 410+ ft/pds of torque. From what research ive done is the tpi does choke down the hp..but the torque is incredible. Mine is around 365hp at the wheels. They were called the torque monsters from factory after all. On the rev side of things, you re going to have an almost endless rev, but no loss in torque from what ive experienced thus forth. This is my second 383 tpi car. My other was a third gen camaro awhile ago.
Too the guy with the Z52, its always a thrill whooping up on the newer modern cars isnt it? HA. And I ll look into those tires for sure.