PKE started working intermittently last week, sometimes worked ... Sometimes didn't so I replaced battery. Still doesn't work. So I tried to reprogram it. Goes thru all the steps, but the PKE light won't flash in the final steps to program remote. Tried removing fuse to reset it and then tried to program again. Light won't flash. Any ideas? Checked new battery and its good. Could the receiver be going bad and it was telling me that last week when it was intermittent? Thanks, John.

 

You might try cleaning the "BB" inside the keyfob. It's what "Wakes it up".

Can you hear it rattling when you shake it?

I got a brand new Fob a few weeks ago and at 1st it worked fine then it started acting like yours is. I disconnected the BB part and now it wakes up when I push the door button. Battery life should increase dramatically with this mod.

 

The only sure and simplest way is to get your hands on another FOB and try the programming and see if the results are normal. There's no real way to check the receiver or FOB independently to find out which one is the problem. It's easiest is to just have a known good FOB and try it on the car. Then you will know which you will have to repalce or repair.

 

When you have the key in the ignition, but turned to the off position, does the chime still ring when you open a door?

If the light doesn't blink, it's not the fob, it's something in the car.

Wait, when you say won't flash in the final steps, are you talking about:

Turn the ignition off,but leave the key in the
ignition. The PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light
should begin to flash to show the system is in
programming mode.

 

I can get the passive keyless entry light to come on in the first step of programming. But when I turn the key to off it won't start flashing like its supposed to (and I have the key way out of range during these first steps).

To answer another post, the fob rattles like its supposed to.

 

When you have the key in the ignition, but turned to the off position, does the chime still ring when you open a door?

 

The chime doesn't always work. The chime system has always been sporadic, but up until this week the PKE has worked fine. The security light works like it should and all interior lights work when you open either door.

 

If the chime isn't working (that is, the car doesn't "know" when the key is in the ignition), then you will not be able to program a fob. Try following the programming instructions, but when you turn the key to off, keep hold of it and keep it pressed in firmly.

 

I agree to this if all is working normal But there might be a chime box problem in addition and it might not be a good sign that the key is in. It might be in, but the chimes just don’t ring correctly.


Does your chimes ring when you turn the headlights on and the key is out of the ignition?

Just wondering if you get the 2 second PKE light when the key is turned to the ON position?

 

Black, you didn't mention if the fob would still open the hatch when things started going south. If it still opens the hatch now, then it is still programmed to the car and it is likely (not certain) that the fob is OK. Because you say it happened gradually, I assume the system is not just turned off, but just in case, have you tried turning it back on?

In any case, not being able to get the blinking light in the programming peocedure indicates a problem in the car. Maybe bad receiver, loose ignition switch, something.

 

PKE light lights at startup. Fob won't open passenger door or hatch.

After reading FSM this morning it's looking like it might be a problem with CCM based on car history since I've owned it (purchased 2/12).

Speedometer has only worked after driving car 20-30 minutes. Replaced VSS pigtail because wiring was worn, still the same. Bought new driven gear but still looking for VSS o-ring before I remove VSS.

Low Oil Light has come on at startup 3-4 times since I've had car but oil level has always been full.

Now this issue with PKE and chime system.

All 3 of these systems communicate through CCM, so am I correct in assuming that I should diagnose CCM for any issues?

 

I don't have a 93 FSM, but that sounds like a good approach.

 

Logic may look straight forward here thinking there is a bad CCM. But I am look at the other possibilities like there are multiple problems that may look like only one. CCMs are pretty reliable and much more than ECMs

The ECM is also part of the VSS speedometer circuit. The speed sensor drives the ECM. Then the ECM feeds the signal via the serial bus to the CCM which then drives and displays the speed on the speedometer.

You can check the chimes by using the on board diagnostics using module 1.4. You can turn on chimes 1 & 2 and see if the box works.

Also module 1.3 test 6 will tell you if the key is in the ignition and recognized.

I would check out the oil level sensor to see if the switch has good continuity when full of oil and closed. You might short the switch out. If the problem did not happen again, it may point to the sensor switch.

 

Over the last few weeks I've been trying different things to get PKE working. Thinking that when something stops working it might be caused by another thing that was recently done to the car. Before PKE stopped working I replaced the bulb (the small bulb) in the drivers side courtesy light area and I replaced with the same bulb that rear view mirror used. It always seemed a little brighter than the passenger door. So last week I put new bulbs in the drivers and passenger door that matched each other. I had put a #74 bulb in drivers door so I replaced both bulbs with #73. PKE still didn't work. I also had been running for a while without fuse in for underhood lights, so I put the 10 amp fuse back in. PKE still not working.

Then last night I got home from Dweezil Zappa show (Zappa plays Zappa which was awesome) and I locked my keys in the car. Bonehead move, I know. I didn't have a spare door key, only spare ignition key. So I called Pop-A-Lock this morning and they came out and opened the car door with the air bladder and long hook rod. Then he opened the car door, keys still in the ignition, and the alarm went off. I took the keys out of ignition (alarm still sounding), put keys back in and started car (alarm goes off). Turn car off and walk away ... I then hear horn honk. PKE locked the car. I go back out to car a few minutes later to go to work ... PKE unlocks car. Damn thing worked like its supposed to all day! About 12 cycles all through the day and locked the car when I got home this evening.

Maybe the alarm going off this morning woke up the PKE. Can't explain it, but very happy with the outcome. BTW, I went to the key shop and had 2 door keys made. One for my wallet and the other to complete the spare key set at home. All in all a good day, which happens to be my one year anniversary owning this Vette. Purchased 2/1/12.

 

You could try resoldering the key FOB ceramic SMT capacitor like
in this thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1582982320-post10.html

 

PKE is working fine. I saw that thread the other day and opened mine up and my fob doesn't have the pin sticking out of the board in the red circle and there is no evidence that it was ever soldered to the hatch button in the green circle.

We will see how long this thing keeps working ... Fingers crossed. All electrical issues done in the last 4 months are taken care of. Just another weird electrical issue with a 20 year old car.

Still love the car a lot!!