C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Ignition Cylinder stuck! Help!

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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 11:18 AM
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Default Ignition Cylinder stuck! Help!

My ignition cylinder is stuck in the "run" position. I managed to get the car to shut off and disconnect the battery, but now I'm left with figuring out how to fix this problem.

Does anyone know the common ailments for the ignition cylinder? How do I even get the steering column apart to get at it? What page of the service manual this is on?

Found SM section 3F-37

Last edited by TTA579; Oct 21, 2012 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Found information.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TTA579
My ignition cylinder is stuck in the "run" position. I managed to get the car to shut off and disconnect the battery, but now I'm left with figuring out how to fix this problem.

Does anyone know the common ailments for the ignition cylinder? How do I even get the steering column apart to get at it? What page of the service manual this is on?
You'll need a new cylinder and you'll need to replace the ignition keys!

The new cylinder will come with a key that only has the "mechanical" cut. You'll need new key with your current "resistance" but cut to the new "mechanical" cut!

I believe this is as good a tutorial as there is out there:

http://domesticmisfits.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=124

Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 21, 2012 at 11:26 AM.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
You'll need a new cylinder and you'll need to replace the ignition keys!

The new cylinder will come with a key that only has the "mechanical" cut. You'll need new key with your current "resistance" but cut to the new "mechanical" cut!

I believe this is as good a tutorial as there is out there:

http://domesticmisfits.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=124
I see that is for a new style dashboard with an airbag. How similar is the procedure on an older column?
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TTA579
I see that is for a new style dashboard with an airbag. How similar is the procedure on an older column?
Similar but yes it's different! The short telescoping shaft seems to be an issue when removing the lock ring. I've never done an early one. The column is very similar and I would think if you've an earl FSM you should be fine.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 10:44 PM
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My lock cylinder just wore out on the inside and was jamming after 18 years.

I just did the lock cylinder couple weeks ago and with the assistance from WVZR-1 and I had the same problem, I could not turn the key to off. This is my info as it may be some assistance to you. The job turned out to be not hard and had a good time doing it.

My job complete thread and pointers.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...nder-94-a.html

My initial thread for the problems.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...nder-94-a.html
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
My lock cylinder just wore out on the inside and was jamming after 18 years.

I just did the lock cylinder couple weeks ago and with the assistance from WVZR-1 and I had the same problem, I could not turn the key to off. This is my info as it may be some assistance to you. The job turned out to be not hard and had a good time doing it.

My job complete thread and pointers.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...nder-94-a.html

My initial thread for the problems.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...nder-94-a.html
Thanks! I've got to order that lock and get to it. I'll be picking up the couple of specialty tools as well.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TTA579
Thanks! I've got to order that lock and get to it. I'll be picking up the couple of specialty tools as well.
You mentioned I thought having a FSM do you? I believe if you can find or fabricate the spring compressor adapter for the telescopic aspect all you need to do is be "very careful"! There's lots of plastic that's easily busted.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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Sorry I did not mention this before where I bought the cylinder. I bought it off of Ebay. The prices ranged from $25 and up to $100. I looked at several and got the one for $25. The quality looked good and I was happy with it. It looked like the one I took out and worked fine.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Any chance it's a problem with the park lock cable ?
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Any chance it's a problem with the park lock cable ?
I wouldn't think the park lock cable would interfere with "off" - it was mentioned "stuck in run"! Explain maybe? It's an easy enough situation to check I'd think and an interesting thought.

If you don't mind - have you parked all of your information somewhere other than "Shaw"? I was researching some things the other day and the "Shaw" information I was accustomed to seeing didn't seem to be there any longer.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I wouldn't think the park lock cable would interfere with "off" - it was mentioned "stuck in run"! Explain maybe? It's an easy enough situation to check I'd think and an interesting thought.

If you don't mind - have you parked all of your information somewhere other than "Shaw"? I was researching some things the other day and the "Shaw" information I was accustomed to seeing didn't seem to be there any longer.
For whatever reason, I stopped getting email updates on this thread.

Yes, the car is stuck in the "on" position. Gear shift is fine. And the key is removable in this state (even while running). Wouldn't the park lock cable allow me to shut the car off, but not remove the key? The cylinder is seized in such a way that I can not restart the car either.

I haven't had a chance to perform this operation yet (sadly). You can be sure there will be a ton of photos since I've never done anything like this before.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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Update:

I purchased a Craftsman steering wheel puller and lock ring puller from Sears.

Everything went smoothly up to the steering wheel. The tool came with 5/16-18 bolts that were too short to work. I purchased 2x 6" threaded 5/16-18 rods washers and nuts to compensate. They worked fine.

Steering wheel off, I got down to #5 Retainer, Carrier Snap Ring, to find that 20 years has not been kind to it. I can probably get away with supergluing the small piece that broke off, but I'd love to find a replacement. Anyone know of a source? Part number?

Next hurdle: I'm going to try to find a socket head machine screw that will allow me to lock the telescoping feature and still use my lock plate puller. If I can't find a socket head, a set screw may suffice. I will post a how-to when I'm done. (where do those go on this forum?)

-Scott
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TTA579
My ignition cylinder is stuck in the "run" position. I managed to get the car to shut off and disconnect the battery, but now I'm left with figuring out how to fix this problem.

Does anyone know the common ailments for the ignition cylinder? How do I even get the steering column apart to get at it? What page of the service manual this is on?

Found SM section 3F-37
That condition may also occur if the transmission shift button is partially depressed.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1800Wing
That condition may also occur if the transmission shift button is partially depressed.
Thanks for the info.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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Update: I managed to work around the turn signal cam which I did not want to remove entirely (wire routing). I replaced the ignition lock with a new one purchased from ebay, spliced the VATs wiring, and everything is back to working order.

I'm still waiting on the broken #5 Retainer, Carrier Snap Ring I have ordered.

Lots of photos available.
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