C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pmihaltian
Pull your ECM codes to see what your diagnostics are telling you. Also, as mentioned above, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine. Check it out and let us know what you discover.

If you need to replace your fuel pump, follow the attached instructions. Changing the fuel pump is an easy job which should take no longer than an hour. A new Walbro pump is about $75.
that was vaulable. i dont have a guage and dont know what the ecm codes are . but let me ask you . sometimes while sitting or driving it revs up a little sometimes also .

how can i test the guage ,, when i turn the key you can hear it pumping.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pmihaltian
Pull your ECM codes to see what your diagnostics are telling you. Also, as mentioned above, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine. Check it out and let us know what you discover.

If you need to replace your fuel pump, follow the attached instructions. Changing the fuel pump is an easy job which should take no longer than an hour. A new Walbro pump is about $75.
thanks that is great help.. i went to crank the car and it starts and dies,, there is no pressure when the key is off on the release valve on the manifold, and with the key on its a little better but nothing special. but i hear the pump come on and stop like its primed. what do you think. i really need you advise.

thank you tommy killgore
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:46 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by navy_vette

Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.

Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".

It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*

My bet is on the fuel pump.
do you think when changing my starter having it jacked up so much that when i let it down and ran it clogged my new fuel filter,
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by thebuziness
do you think when changing my starter having it jacked up so much that when i let it down and ran it clogged my new fuel filter,
I doubt it. Any chance you may have installed the fuel filter backwards?
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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i dont think so because i was driving it before and after it stopped,, now it will crank and just die. could i have picked so much trash when changing the statrer in the filter ..
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 02:10 PM
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do you know the names for the 2 bars under neath the front that kinda support the cowling .. they come from the frame and are supports there about 2 to 3 foot long. i need one .. thanks
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by navy_vette

Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.

Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".

It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*

My bet is on the fuel pump.
ok i tested the pressure and i have between 35 and 40 lbs at the manifold. some one is telling me its the ignition switch.

what do you think.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by thebuziness
do you think when changing my starter having it jacked up so much that when i let it down and ran it clogged my new fuel filter,
The fuel lines run right by the jack point on the right hand side of the frame. Did you crimp the lines with your jack by any chance?
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
The fuel lines run right by the jack point on the right hand side of the frame. Did you crimp the lines with your jack by any chance?
no im sure of that i used the aframe.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by navy_vette

Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.

Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".

It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*

My bet is on the fuel pump.
i have 40 lbs at the guage when i crank my 87 vette, but it still dies after it cranks. the pressure holds. but drops a little. i put new ignation switch on it still nothing. some one said fuel pump regulator but it looks kind of new . what can i do to crank my car.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by navy_vette

Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.

Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".

It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*

My bet is on the fuel pump.
i have put gauges on and i have 40 lbs of pressure. but it still dies after i crank. wont take gas when i push pedal. pump sounds good. new ignation switch . and still dies after cranking. please help
Originally Posted by pmihaltian
Check your in-tank electric fuel pump. Could be a dieing pump or a loose wire. Check it out.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #32  
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Doesn't the '87 have a MAF in the intake?

I know on other brands that once the MAF sensor goes bad, the car will crank and then die soon after.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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that is what it doing . just like you say crank and die .
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #34  
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Search out threads on the MAF. I can't remember 100% cause I don't have one....but I think there are threads on how to fix the sensor or the connector to work again.

But like I said, I don't have one so I didn't pay attention too much
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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can i rent one at autozone a checker.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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I'm not sure there is a "checker" to rent......The sensor works or it doesn't

But given the history of "my" car, all the electronics are crusty, brittle and subject to breaking at any moment....

I think a regular volt meter would the be the only way to check it....but I have no values to give you.

The thing works (IIRC) by the air flow sucking this big bullet shaped thing backwards when the motor is running......the sensor senses how far that thing has moved and gives feedback to the computer....when it is out of whack things go bad.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Doesn't the '87 have a MAF in the intake?

I know on other brands that once the MAF sensor goes bad, the car will crank and then die soon after.
it says code 33-34
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:08 PM
  #38  
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Oh, well there ya go.....

here...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ng-thread.html

All you need to know about MAF, even found a thread specifically for an '87
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
I'm not sure there is a "checker" to rent......The sensor works or it doesn't

But given the history of "my" car, all the electronics are crusty, brittle and subject to breaking at any moment....

I think a regular volt meter would the be the only way to check it....but I have no values to give you.

The thing works (IIRC) by the air flow sucking this big bullet shaped thing backwards when the motor is running......the sensor senses how far that thing has moved and gives feedback to the computer....when it is out of whack things go bad.
i ment a meter to plug into my car. under the dash .

if i crank and spray start fluid it stays running,
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:52 PM
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well, yeah, there is the code reader...

How did you discover that it was throwing a 33-34 code?
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