mr
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Joined: Nov 2012
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thanks for the details
Pull your ECM codes to see what your diagnostics are telling you. Also, as mentioned above, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine. Check it out and let us know what you discover.
If you need to replace your fuel pump, follow the attached instructions. Changing the fuel pump is an easy job which should take no longer than an hour. A new Walbro pump is about $75.
If you need to replace your fuel pump, follow the attached instructions. Changing the fuel pump is an easy job which should take no longer than an hour. A new Walbro pump is about $75.
how can i test the guage ,, when i turn the key you can hear it pumping.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 27
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Pull your ECM codes to see what your diagnostics are telling you. Also, as mentioned above, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine. Check it out and let us know what you discover.
If you need to replace your fuel pump, follow the attached instructions. Changing the fuel pump is an easy job which should take no longer than an hour. A new Walbro pump is about $75.
If you need to replace your fuel pump, follow the attached instructions. Changing the fuel pump is an easy job which should take no longer than an hour. A new Walbro pump is about $75.
thank you tommy killgore
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
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Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.
Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".
It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*
My bet is on the fuel pump.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 800
Likes: 2
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.
Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".
It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*
My bet is on the fuel pump.
what do you think.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.
Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".
It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*
My bet is on the fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Great attachment. I just replaced my fuel pump and that misses nothing at all.
Codes should always be checked first. I believe your year can still do the "paperclip trick".
It definately sounds like you are running out of fuel. You can run to an auto parts store and get a GM fuel pressure tester. Turn the car on and the pump should prime to 32 PSI. Turn the key back on and come back in 15 minutes. You should have lost no more than a few pounds. Come back in an hour and it should still have some pressure. Maybe about 20 PSI? *someone confirm?*
My bet is on the fuel pump.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Search out threads on the MAF. I can't remember 100% cause I don't have one....but I think there are threads on how to fix the sensor or the connector to work again.
But like I said, I don't have one so I didn't pay attention too much
But like I said, I don't have one so I didn't pay attention too much
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
I'm not sure there is a "checker" to rent......The sensor works or it doesn't
But given the history of "my" car, all the electronics are crusty, brittle and subject to breaking at any moment....
I think a regular volt meter would the be the only way to check it....but I have no values to give you.
The thing works (IIRC) by the air flow sucking this big bullet shaped thing backwards when the motor is running......the sensor senses how far that thing has moved and gives feedback to the computer....when it is out of whack things go bad.
But given the history of "my" car, all the electronics are crusty, brittle and subject to breaking at any moment....
I think a regular volt meter would the be the only way to check it....but I have no values to give you.
The thing works (IIRC) by the air flow sucking this big bullet shaped thing backwards when the motor is running......the sensor senses how far that thing has moved and gives feedback to the computer....when it is out of whack things go bad.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Oh, well there ya go.....
here...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ng-thread.html
All you need to know about MAF, even found a thread specifically for an '87
here...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ng-thread.html
All you need to know about MAF, even found a thread specifically for an '87
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
I'm not sure there is a "checker" to rent......The sensor works or it doesn't
But given the history of "my" car, all the electronics are crusty, brittle and subject to breaking at any moment....
I think a regular volt meter would the be the only way to check it....but I have no values to give you.
The thing works (IIRC) by the air flow sucking this big bullet shaped thing backwards when the motor is running......the sensor senses how far that thing has moved and gives feedback to the computer....when it is out of whack things go bad.
But given the history of "my" car, all the electronics are crusty, brittle and subject to breaking at any moment....
I think a regular volt meter would the be the only way to check it....but I have no values to give you.
The thing works (IIRC) by the air flow sucking this big bullet shaped thing backwards when the motor is running......the sensor senses how far that thing has moved and gives feedback to the computer....when it is out of whack things go bad.
if i crank and spray start fluid it stays running,