ST3 Build has begun!
#1
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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ST3 Build has begun!
Merry Christmas everyone!
Since NASA PTA is dead and ST3 has been born, I need a little more horsepower to meet power to weight.
Here's a sneak peek:
I was putting down 322 rwhp with stock heads, Demon 750 and Action Plus dual plane and a cam.
Hoping for 360 so I don't have to add weight.
Since NASA PTA is dead and ST3 has been born, I need a little more horsepower to meet power to weight.
Here's a sneak peek:
I was putting down 322 rwhp with stock heads, Demon 750 and Action Plus dual plane and a cam.
Hoping for 360 so I don't have to add weight.
#3
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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Same bottom end but going with AFR 195s and an Edelbrock Torquer II and decking the block to 0.000". Also adding ARP studs to the mains and opening up the oil return holes.
#4
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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Finally moving forward and have pics for updates.
The block had ARP studs installed, line bored and honed:
Smoothed out the main cap oil feed hole:
Before:
After:
Oil return holes massaged:
Before:
After:
The rest of the parts are at the machine shop. It's getting balanced and decked to 0 deck height. Crank will also be polished and the block will be honed.
As soon as parts get back from the machine shop, I'll be posting assembly pictures.
The block had ARP studs installed, line bored and honed:
Smoothed out the main cap oil feed hole:
Before:
After:
Oil return holes massaged:
Before:
After:
The rest of the parts are at the machine shop. It's getting balanced and decked to 0 deck height. Crank will also be polished and the block will be honed.
As soon as parts get back from the machine shop, I'll be posting assembly pictures.
#5
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Very cool! I'm hoping when I get mine on the dyno it doesn't make too much HP. I built it for PTA and have no more money to change it.
#6
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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I'm hoping for the same. I'm going to be quite close to 11:1, but hopefully with leaving the cam alone and just changing airflow, I can get my target power. Who does your tuning Kubs?
#7
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Alvin at PCM for Less, now PCM of NC. He gave me a startup chip and the car fired right up and idles beautiful after setting the timing. Im waiting for better weather up here to take it for a cruise to seat the rings and datalog some so he can make sure the tune is perfect.
#8
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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Finally got all the parts I need to put the engine together. I put the cam in and while I was putting in the main bearings, I noticed this on #3 main:
Not sure how this was missed earlier, but I'm going to take it back to the machine shop tomorrow. I'm guessing it's going to have to have another line bore and hone with a different set of caps.
Man setbacks like these really suck.
Not sure how this was missed earlier, but I'm going to take it back to the machine shop tomorrow. I'm guessing it's going to have to have another line bore and hone with a different set of caps.
Man setbacks like these really suck.
#10
Burning Brakes
Good eye Kinda makes a guy wanna mag the $hit out of everything one more time. If you dont have a lot wraped up in the block you could pick up a junk yard 880 pretty cheep. The 1 ton and some 3/4 tons had a forged crank that would work fine in a budget 355 to 6500rpm. was this internal or external ballance? Why did you choose the Torker II? The short Vic jr and Team G flow a lot more with out loosing anything above 3500, while keeping the hood clearance down. Pretty common on short track builds. Usually when you see the Torker II it is required by the rules. If the Vic or TG leave a little room for a spacer maby use as much spacer as possible and port the entry / plenum.
Last edited by Crepitus; 02-01-2013 at 03:49 PM.
#11
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Well, finally, after the #3 main cap crack debacle, I finally made some progress. Actually, a whole lot of progress.
Bottom end buttoned up:
Setting the timing pointer:
One head...
Two.
Going back home:
Finally bolted in:
Intake, carb, and headers:
Finally measured the pushrod length. Irritating that it's 7.200". I have a damn near brand new set of 7.100" hardened 0.080" wall 5/16" pushrods that I can't use anymore.
This is the "finished" product, mocked up on the stand.
I do need some new valve covers, but it's turning out to be a major pain to find a set. I'd really like a set with an oil fill hole and to be able to add -AN lines to both covers to a catch can. The search continues...
Bottom end buttoned up:
Setting the timing pointer:
One head...
Two.
Going back home:
Finally bolted in:
Intake, carb, and headers:
Finally measured the pushrod length. Irritating that it's 7.200". I have a damn near brand new set of 7.100" hardened 0.080" wall 5/16" pushrods that I can't use anymore.
This is the "finished" product, mocked up on the stand.
I do need some new valve covers, but it's turning out to be a major pain to find a set. I'd really like a set with an oil fill hole and to be able to add -AN lines to both covers to a catch can. The search continues...
Last edited by Black89Z51; 02-11-2013 at 10:54 PM.
#13
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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No, definitely won't fit the stick hood. I've got a Toledo Pro carbon hood with no under tray. We found a cap that was close and then re-line honed.
Lol, can I do a few first?
Lol, can I do a few first?
#15
Safety Car
On the rocker covers... How about some B&B's that are just plain cast alum and you can drill/machine the holes you need/want?
$60
http://www.competitionproducts.com/P...ctinfo/560301/
They are permiter bolt which works better with those AFR's....
BTW I see you bought the Pioneer SFI racing balancer I recomended... Looks good on there.
Will
$60
http://www.competitionproducts.com/P...ctinfo/560301/
They are permiter bolt which works better with those AFR's....
BTW I see you bought the Pioneer SFI racing balancer I recomended... Looks good on there.
Will
#16
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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On the rocker covers... How about some B&B's that are just plain cast alum and you can drill/machine the holes you need/want?
$60
http://www.competitionproducts.com/P...ctinfo/560301/
They are permiter bolt which works better with those AFR's....
BTW I see you bought the Pioneer SFI racing balancer I recomended... Looks good on there.
Will
$60
http://www.competitionproducts.com/P...ctinfo/560301/
They are permiter bolt which works better with those AFR's....
BTW I see you bought the Pioneer SFI racing balancer I recomended... Looks good on there.
Will
I will definitely consider those. Thanks for that link.
And as far as the balancer, it's a really nice piece. I'm glad I listened to you on that one. Thank you very much for pointing me that way and saving me a couple hundred vs. another brand.
#17
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Just a little update.
Got the car running and everything buttoned up. Had a friend start the car so I could set the timing and got that all squared away. Looked underneath to check everything.
Oil is POURING out of the bellhousing area. No idea what it could be, I was suspecting a loose oil galley plug, or something has gone horribly wrong with the rear main. Or the block is cracked.
So I pulled the transmission again, and that damn ZF is a heavy sucker. Looked like oil was coming from the right oil galley plug so I pulled the distributor and put in my priming tool and watched with a mirror. Sure enough, oil was dumping out of the right plug.
So I pulled the plug, this is what I found:
The machine shop had put this plug in the rear of the block. I believe these were used in boats in the front of the engine to squirt oil on the timing chain. Not a happy camper to have to do all that work for that little part.
Anyways, the everything is back together and buttoned up. Just have a few little minor things to do and then it goes in the trailer for tuning.
Got the car running and everything buttoned up. Had a friend start the car so I could set the timing and got that all squared away. Looked underneath to check everything.
Oil is POURING out of the bellhousing area. No idea what it could be, I was suspecting a loose oil galley plug, or something has gone horribly wrong with the rear main. Or the block is cracked.
So I pulled the transmission again, and that damn ZF is a heavy sucker. Looked like oil was coming from the right oil galley plug so I pulled the distributor and put in my priming tool and watched with a mirror. Sure enough, oil was dumping out of the right plug.
So I pulled the plug, this is what I found:
The machine shop had put this plug in the rear of the block. I believe these were used in boats in the front of the engine to squirt oil on the timing chain. Not a happy camper to have to do all that work for that little part.
Anyways, the everything is back together and buttoned up. Just have a few little minor things to do and then it goes in the trailer for tuning.
#18
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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Finished the last little bits today and it's up and running. Here's a short clip of idle and some revs. It will be going to the tuner next week. Hoping for 360 hp at the wheels.