looking for performance info
1.cold air
2.catback
3.gears 3.42 or 3.73 ?
4.tune- hand held or custom ?
5. N2O wet or dry ? no more than 100 shot
The car will be mostly street. little drag, auto-x and maybe a trackday.
1.cold airLittle Value on a LT1 unless you have big cubes.
2.catback Again little value on LT1, very good system from factory, mostly for sound, long tube headers do help a good bit.
3.gears 3.42 or 3.73 ? Now your talking, stall converter too!!!
4.tune- hand held or custom ? If you tune it right, a few to be found, but not breath taking.
5. N2O wet or dry ? no more than 100 shot. Yes, you can get HP with this. Be warned however, I know you cannot use NOS with SCCA auto-x, unless you pull the bottle, completely. I bet track days are similar. Go wet, progessive controller, etc...if you want your stock bottom end to live very long.
The car will be mostly street. little drag, auto-x and maybe a trackday.
I dont really want to go into the engine so cam and even roller rockers are out for now. but are there anymore easy power mods like under drive pullies, larger TB, or ?? I like the LT headers idea Whats a good brand for lt1 ?
Last edited by spdtrip; Jan 4, 2013 at 09:05 PM.
1.cold air
2.catback
3.gears 3.42 or 3.73 ?
4.tune- hand held or custom ?
5. N2O wet or dry ? no more than 100 shot
The car will be mostly street. little drag, auto-x and maybe a trackday.

The later ZR1 had 405h/p compared to the pre 92 that had 375.
If i had my time again that is what i would do, there are some great value ones for sale with low miles that have been pampered.
Last edited by gerardvg; Jan 4, 2013 at 10:07 PM.
Lots of Torque and sticky tires will kill them. With really sticky tires, big torque, and high stall you need a D44, even that has a point of breaking.
In your case, swap out for the fluid for Redline Heavy Shock Proof Gear oil and run it. It'll live for quite a while.
Larger TB do almost nothing on a stock LT1.
Underdrive pullies do a little bit. Not much.
Here is a good post from way back.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...o-results.html
The gears and stall depends on what you want to do?
From your description it sounds like you want something all around.
Cannot go too big on the stall then or with the rear end.
I'm not an auto guy so I'm not 100% on what is "best".
However, I would not go over 4K for street use on the stall. 3K or so might be better. Gears=3.73, 3.45, 3.54.
If you want more power in the future a Dana 44 can always be swapped in.
Headers=Best HP gain. LOTS of info on CF, do a search to get more. TPIS makes them as well.
http://www.americanracingheaders.com/C4_Corvette.html
http://emracingcorp.com/scripts/prod...?idCategory=52
http://www.stainlessworks.net/produc...6-headers.html
A note on headers, bigger is not better. You have to match to your engine and output. A stock 350 LT1 is better off with 1-5/8" primaries not 1-7/8". Flow is important but so is velocity of the air. Same goes for heads. Flow numbers are NOT everything. The bigger ones will work but they are better on a bigger cube engine or one with MAYBE head/cam work.
Whew, long post.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I was in the same position as you 2 years ago - a B-body Mopar guy looking for a switch. I'm glad I picked the C4. It is cheap, sturdy, and there is nothing that has not already been done on them. This site is loded with great people with benevolent personalities.
I ended up buying a '94/auto/original owner/no mods for $7.5K. I started buying parts for my build, but now think I might shouldda bought one already done.
Enjoy!!!











