lcd dahs ground location
The ink is probably the fluid contained in the LCD panels. My guess is that one broke or maybe it just delaminated. Alternately, lots of folks use Sharpies to retouch missing paint on the back of the panels, and that might come off with alcohol.
Ignore the factory ground points - all pass through the totally unreliable firewall connector, and they can't be trusted. Just run your own (to a seat bolt or other substantial frame member). Then connect the wires shown on my page to that new point.
http://batee.com/corvette/dcrg/badground.htm
I'm not familiar with your symptoms. I did watch the video, and I'm not terribly sure what's happening or what's causing it. It's trying to do a lamp test when the key is turned on, and something is failing. It could well be the power supply, and it could be a short caused by the leaking LCD chemical. Can you tell me if it's just one panel that's leaking, or ??? I think I see a leak happening at the bottom of the center panel, but that might just be missing paint.
I agree that the interboard solder joints look OK, but it's not possible to tell by looking if they're good, so it's good practice to reflow the joints on both sides of that connector. I plan to update my repair article on the interboard connector soon to include completely replacing it, instead of just reflowing the solder joints. A new connector set can be had for about $15, and that's good insurance. I should have them for sale on my site within the week.
--The One and Only BATEE
the ink is in all 3 cristals so i think that most be just outside ink coming out with the alhcol
i will run my on ground wire lite you say
thank you very much for taking the time .
Batte you aré leyend ........
I encountered another cluster with the symptoms you show in the video (intermittently, my cluster would show no backlights, and the segments flickered on and off randomly). When I checked the cluster, the internal 5V power supply was not operating. I reflowed the solder joints in critical areas (all the capacitors and the pass transistor (gooped to the caps). Mine started working more reliably. I'll continue to test and let you know what I find. For now, you might measure the 5V power supply (pin 3 on the interboard connector should be +5V, and the GND terminal is pin 12).
Alternately, buy one of the $120 power supplies from eBay and that should fix the issue (unless there are broken LCDs).
I am working on a replacement power supply project that should cost significantly less than $120, but it'll be a while.
The one and only BATEE
(Bryan A. Thompson)
The liquid in the LCD is between two pieces of glass. It can't come out.
The pink blocks are what make the connection from the PC board to the LCD. They need to be lined up correctly and in the right places.
I encountered another cluster with the symptoms you show in the video (intermittently, my cluster would show no backlights, and the segments flickered on and off randomly). When I checked the cluster, the internal 5V power supply was not operating. I reflowed the solder joints in critical areas (all the capacitors and the pass transistor (gooped to the caps). Mine started working more reliably. I'll continue to test and let you know what I find. For now, you might measure the 5V power supply (pin 3 on the interboard connector should be +5V, and the GND terminal is pin 12).
Alternately, buy one of the $120 power supplies from eBay and that should fix the issue (unless there are broken LCDs).
I am working on a replacement power supply project that should cost significantly less than $120, but it'll be a while.
The one and only BATEE
(Bryan A. Thompson)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Sincé I have 2 dash. the original one. the only problem this one had was tost cristal. and the new one that work find for some time. and the problem is describe above.
I decided to use the old dash electronic. and the new liquid cristals.
so I did.
here are some very bad pictures of what i get now.
this pics was taking yesterday
what can you tell me by viewing this pictures???
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