84 Fan Temp Switch Difference Early vs Late ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,134
Likes: 11
From: At the St. Louis Playboy club.
I put some truck heads on mine, They were all tricked out with a little more compression. My original heads were cracked around the valves, all of them.
Before putting the heads on the machine shop got that plug your talking about out. Still had to buy a adapter for different thread size.
I wonder if you can put a T fitting in the front of the engine where the temp guage sendor is located.Im not sure if its for the guage or for the computer to know when the car warms up.It located right under the air pump.
Before putting the heads on the machine shop got that plug your talking about out. Still had to buy a adapter for different thread size.
I wonder if you can put a T fitting in the front of the engine where the temp guage sendor is located.Im not sure if its for the guage or for the computer to know when the car warms up.It located right under the air pump.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 13
Sender at front is for the ECM , the temp gauge sender is almost always in a head with the fan switch on the opposite side
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 13
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/asset...ette/40414.pdf
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: state of insanity
How about a pic of the plug? I have never seen any screw in any thing in a motor i couldn't get out. Just rebuilt a 56 studebaker motor that sat since 1971 and every thing came apart/with some persuasion.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
I'll have to apply heat as has been suggested and try again with a 3 ft cheater bar and see how that goes.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
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Both wires are switched to ground through the switch body so you don't need a separate ground wire
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/asset...ette/40414.pdf
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/asset...ette/40414.pdf
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
I put some truck heads on mine, They were all tricked out with a little more compression. My original heads were cracked around the valves, all of them.
Before putting the heads on the machine shop got that plug your talking about out. Still had to buy a adapter for different thread size.
I wonder if you can put a T fitting in the front of the engine where the temp guage sendor is located.Im not sure if its for the guage or for the computer to know when the car warms up.It located right under the air pump.
Before putting the heads on the machine shop got that plug your talking about out. Still had to buy a adapter for different thread size.
I wonder if you can put a T fitting in the front of the engine where the temp guage sendor is located.Im not sure if its for the guage or for the computer to know when the car warms up.It located right under the air pump.
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: co
you are dealing with a tapered pipe thread here..
before you heat, if you can get a short drift or center punch and hammer in there, tap on the center of the plug.
heat and try too tighten a bit then loosen. keep tightening-loosing rather than just loosening. tapping-heat-woking back and fort will get you farther than brute forcing it out. always start with a tightening strain then loosen.
once you get the plug to move at all, the taper should let it release and come right out. hence reason to bump tight an then loose.
dont be afraid, in fact be prepared to do this cycle several times
taping while hot won't hurt either. this might sound crazy
to try to tighten before loosing but in my 30 years mechanics experience on heavy equipment, it has worked to remove countless dutchmen.
before you heat, if you can get a short drift or center punch and hammer in there, tap on the center of the plug.
heat and try too tighten a bit then loosen. keep tightening-loosing rather than just loosening. tapping-heat-woking back and fort will get you farther than brute forcing it out. always start with a tightening strain then loosen.
once you get the plug to move at all, the taper should let it release and come right out. hence reason to bump tight an then loose.
dont be afraid, in fact be prepared to do this cycle several times
taping while hot won't hurt either. this might sound crazy
to try to tighten before loosing but in my 30 years mechanics experience on heavy equipment, it has worked to remove countless dutchmen.
Last edited by garryowen; Mar 21, 2013 at 02:21 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
you are dealing with a tapered pipe thread here..
before you heat, if you can get a short drift or center punch and hammer in there, tap on the center of the plug.
heat and try too tighten a bit then loosen. keep tightening-loosing rather than just loosening. tapping-heat-woking back and fort will get you farther than brute forcing it out. always start with a tightening strain then loosen.
once you get the plug to move at all, the taper should let it release and come right out. hence reason to bump tight an then loose.
dont be afraid, in fact be prepared to do this cycle several times
taping while hot won't hurt either. this might sound crazy to try to tighten before loosing but in my 30 years mechanics experience on heavy equipment, it has worked to remove countless dutchmen.
before you heat, if you can get a short drift or center punch and hammer in there, tap on the center of the plug.
heat and try too tighten a bit then loosen. keep tightening-loosing rather than just loosening. tapping-heat-woking back and fort will get you farther than brute forcing it out. always start with a tightening strain then loosen.
once you get the plug to move at all, the taper should let it release and come right out. hence reason to bump tight an then loose.
dont be afraid, in fact be prepared to do this cycle several times
taping while hot won't hurt either. this might sound crazy
to try to tighten before loosing but in my 30 years mechanics experience on heavy equipment, it has worked to remove countless dutchmen.You read my mind !
And i agree i've heard this before to tighten slightly then loosen and repeat until it comes loose.
Space is seriously limited so tapping may be very difficult to be effective but i will try !!
Thank you!
Last edited by GQ-ROD; Mar 21, 2013 at 02:45 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
If the car is still at the shop have the shop take an air chisel with a blunt tip/smoothing tip and use it as an impact tool on the plug. It might actually be effective without the use of heat. Maybe NOT!
The shop likely has a cutting tool that's "used up" and could make a blunt tool from with maybe a more effective length!
"garyowen" - has the right idea there also "tighten"!
The shop likely has a cutting tool that's "used up" and could make a blunt tool from with maybe a more effective length!
"garyowen" - has the right idea there also "tighten"!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 21, 2013 at 02:48 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 13
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
If the car is still at the shop have the shop take an air chisel with a blunt tip/smoothing tip and use it as an impact tool on the plug. It might actually be effective without the use of heat. Maybe NOT!
The shop likely has a cutting tool that's "used up" and could make a blunt tool from with maybe a more effective length!
"garyowen" - has the right idea there also "tighten"!
The shop likely has a cutting tool that's "used up" and could make a blunt tool from with maybe a more effective length!
"garyowen" - has the right idea there also "tighten"!
So i think a potential liability issue arises for theme if they mess with it.
The biggest issue is the lack of space between the plug and the inner part of the car literally only 3 inches of space to work with. But i'll try it once i get it back.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
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Update:
Couldn't get the plug out, so will have to relocate the temp switch.
I'm concerned about the stock 84 thermostat housing being too short to drill and tap.
Thinking of getting one of these thermostat housings from an 85
This one looks like it already has ports that are tapped, don't know if i'll have to get an adapter or reducer to fit the temp switch to one of the existing threaded ports.
This one has a longer neck which is good though it means i'll have to drill and tap a hole for the temp switch which i don't mind doing.
But my concern is will i have clearance issues with the air cleaner or anything else and will it fit the 84 ?
Couldn't get the plug out, so will have to relocate the temp switch.
I'm concerned about the stock 84 thermostat housing being too short to drill and tap.
Thinking of getting one of these thermostat housings from an 85
This one looks like it already has ports that are tapped, don't know if i'll have to get an adapter or reducer to fit the temp switch to one of the existing threaded ports.
This one has a longer neck which is good though it means i'll have to drill and tap a hole for the temp switch which i don't mind doing.
But my concern is will i have clearance issues with the air cleaner or anything else and will it fit the 84 ?
Last edited by GQ-ROD; Apr 21, 2013 at 02:55 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
The 85 and up thermostat housings won't work for you. The power steering res and alternator locating on the 84 keep you from have the correct angle for the upper radiator hose. If your air pump is removed you can use a 68-81(?) pontiac housing.. I'd have to double check the years of that housing on one of my threads to be sure... then you could use a 90 vette upper radiator hose to get around the resavoir and alternator.
Typical fan switch is located between 6 and 8 cyl's as you already know. Only use one of the two wires. On a stock 84 engine there is usually a bracket thats mounted on the block that has a ground wire that runs up to the fan switch. The wire is only about 3 inches long.
Your temp sender is located between 1 and 3 cyl. If you look at that it will only have one wire going to a ground bracket, it sounds like thats what your missing on the passenger side for the ground connection.
Can you relocate the fan switch to another location in the head where you can drill and tap?
Personally I would work on getting that plug out.
Typical fan switch is located between 6 and 8 cyl's as you already know. Only use one of the two wires. On a stock 84 engine there is usually a bracket thats mounted on the block that has a ground wire that runs up to the fan switch. The wire is only about 3 inches long.
Your temp sender is located between 1 and 3 cyl. If you look at that it will only have one wire going to a ground bracket, it sounds like thats what your missing on the passenger side for the ground connection.
Can you relocate the fan switch to another location in the head where you can drill and tap?
Personally I would work on getting that plug out.
Last edited by qws; Apr 21, 2013 at 05:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
The 85 and up thermostat housings won't work for you. The power steering res and alternator locating on the 84 keep you from have the correct angle for the upper radiator hose. If your air pump is removed you can use a 68-81(?) pontiac housing.. I'd have to double check the years of that housing on one of my threads to be sure... then you could use a 90 vette upper radiator hose to get around the resavoir and alternator.
Typical fan switch is located between 6 and 8 cyl's as you already know. Only use one of the two wires. On a stock 84 engine there is usually a bracket thats mounted on the block that has a ground wire that runs up to the fan switch. The wire is only about 3 inches long.
Your temp sender is located between 1 and 3 cyl. If you look at that it will only have one wire going to a ground bracket, it sounds like thats what your missing on the passenger side for the ground connection.
Can you relocate the fan switch to another location in the head where you can drill and tap?
Personally I would work on getting that plug out.
Typical fan switch is located between 6 and 8 cyl's as you already know. Only use one of the two wires. On a stock 84 engine there is usually a bracket thats mounted on the block that has a ground wire that runs up to the fan switch. The wire is only about 3 inches long.
Your temp sender is located between 1 and 3 cyl. If you look at that it will only have one wire going to a ground bracket, it sounds like thats what your missing on the passenger side for the ground connection.
Can you relocate the fan switch to another location in the head where you can drill and tap?
Personally I would work on getting that plug out.
I'll be stuck drilling and taping the existing thermostat housing, will update once it's done !!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 286
If I could post a picture of what I got I would, I got a heater hose assembly off of an early 90s escort, it has 2 tees built into it, already threaded in 3/8npt. I cut the rubber section off & hooked it up. Check out my engine pictures in my album, I have the cts mounted in one.
Last edited by ex-x-fire; Apr 21, 2013 at 10:06 PM.
