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Does the 1 wire temp switch ground through the switch to the engine block ?
Yes
Originally Posted by GQ-ROD
What is the difference between the early 1 wire temp switch and the later 2 wire switch in terms of how they operate ?
Am not aware of any factory C4 2 wire switches.
What 2 wire switch are you referring to?
If a aftermarket switch with two wires then most likely it would be a true switch ;one wire in and one wire out with no connection to ground
There are also versions that have 2 wires but both are switched to ground through the body allowing to to operate 2 separate circuits through the one switch
Am not aware of any factory C4 2 wire switches.
What 2 wire switch are you referring to?
If a aftermarket switch with two wires then most likely it would be a true switch ;one wire in and one wire out with no connection to ground
There are also versions that have 2 wires but both are switched to ground through the body allowing to to operate 2 separate circuits through the one switch
Thank you !
The reason i ask is because i tried to remove the square head plug that is in the head for this switch and it would not budge.
Took it to a local shop and they could not get it out.
So i have to find another location for the switch in order to have the fan work at the correct temp with the switch operating it.
I ordered the lower temp switch kit from ecklers and it has 2 wires a blue and a green.
Post the part number of what you bought from Ecklers and let's see what you were sold before you do anything! You're trying to change fan temp? If you bought a "fan switch" it will go right where your old switch is presently. You shouldn't need to be removing any plugs in the cylinder head or the block. An '84 has a single fan - are you attempting to add an auxiliary fan?
There's no early or late for an '84 that I have seen.
Post the part number of what you bought from Ecklers and let's see what you were sold before you do anything! You're trying to change fan temp? If you bought a "fan switch" it will go right where your old switch is presently. You shouldn't need to be removing any plugs in the cylinder head or the block. An '84 has a single fan - are you attempting to add an auxiliary fan?
There's no early or late for an '84 that I have seen.
The old switch is not installed, only a square head plug where the temp switch should be.
I'm not trying to add an aux fan ( though down the road i may for an engine or tranny oil cooler ). Just wanted to be sure how the 2 wire switch plug is supposed to work so i can wire it to ground correctly if i have to relocate the switch.
Looks like you bought the correct 200* switch kit and the engine I'm guessing or at least the cylinder heads aren't original? you'll only use a single lead from the switch to relay.
Propane is what you would want to use. You don't want to melt the head.
HA HA HA, yes you are right !!!! thank you !!
I figured the shop with more experience with these plugs on these cars and better equipment could have done it, but they were afraid rightfully so that the head would crack if they put too much force on it.
Looks like you bought the correct 200* switch kit and the engine I'm guessing or at least the cylinder heads aren't original? you'll only use a single lead from the switch to relay.
Yes i agree that the heads are probably not original weird that if they were replacing head, the plug was not removed to install the temp switch in the first place, but would the second wire also carry 12v ( aux ) and thus both be grounded through the body of the switch?
The reasons i ask is because i will have to either drill and tap the thermostat housing for the fan temp switch, and run a ground wire.
OR get a brass tube, drill and solder a female fitting for the temp switch and cut the lower radiator hose then install it between the lower radiator hose. Which means i'll have to add a ground wire to the brass tube for the switch to work properly.
Yes i agree that the heads are probably not original weird that if they were replaced head, the plug was not removed to install the temp switch int he first place, but would the second wire also carry 12v ( aux ) and thus both be grounded through the body of the switch?
The reasons i ask is because i will have to either drill and tap the thermostat housing for the fan temp switch, and run a ground wire.
OR get a brass tube, drill and solder a female fitting for the temp switch and cut the lower radiator hose then install it between the lower radiator hose. Which means i'll have to add a ground wire to the brass tube for the switch to work properly.
How is your fan wired now? I don't believe that it will matter where the switch is placed, it will ground through the engine etc and you should just need a single wire to the fan relay. I believe the fan relay might be to left of shrouds and radiator with the part # 14078902 on it.
A good bit of what you need to do might depend on what has been done to it already regarding fan operation. How do they work now? Run constantly?
How is your fan wired now? I don't believe that it will mater where the switch is placed, it will ground through the engine etc and you should just need a single wire to the fan relay. I believe the fan relay might be to left of shrouds and radiator with the part # 14078902 on it.
A good bit of what you need to do might depend on what has been done to it already regarding fan operation. How do they work now? Run constantly?
They run constantly, fan relay good, the tan wire from the relay ( key on ) is grounded to the exhaust header bolt by previous owner.
I wanted to correct this by installing the new temp switch, and add a manual over ride switch in the center console.
I originally had a different thread on this but wanted to start a new thread specific to my new problem of relocating the temp switch if needed. ( if i can't get the plug out ).
IIRC this is what the 84 temperature should look like .. Last time I checked I think Mid America had them..
dido above pix.
i tried the mid america switch and it would kick on around 195 and then with the 180 thermostat would never kick off.
that pig tail end you have there wouldn't work on my stock, mam, or napa echlin switch which all look like the above photo.
napa switch #fs111 will switch on at lower temp than stock. you can also get the pig tail for it form napa if that help any.
^^^^^^BAD PART# IN NAPA COMPUTER AND WEB SIGHT TURNS ON AT 246 AND OFF AT 232 just tried in my 82. was supposed to come on at 213 to 204
#
3
i have one to try but haven't got i in yet.
did change thermostat form 180* back to 195* stock one and will leave it. does run better with higher one
Last edited by garryowen; Mar 21, 2013 at 02:05 PM.
this is has a pix and is the replacement for your temp switch pig tail
should be hanging there on the left side of block between plugs 6 and 8 some where. see where you said stock wire was bolted to header. this pig tail will splice to your tan wire. op must have cut it off to jury rig.
this is has a pix and is the replacement for your temp switch pig tail
should be hanging there on the left side of block between plugs 6 and 8 some where. see where you said stock wire was bolted to header. this pig tail will splice to your tan wire. op must have cut it off to jury rig.
Thanks i already have the ecklers temp switch and pigtail kit ( pics above ), the issue was that the head has a plug in it which could not yet be removed in order to install the new temp switch.
I will be indeed splicing the tan wire to the new pig tail, now that i know the 2 wire functions the same i'll have to run a seperate ground wire where ever i eventually wind up installing the temp switch.
The car is still at the shop getting the rear end suspension work done.
Once i get it back i'll report back with what i come up with.