Starter Question
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
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From: Hartford WI
Starter Question
91 Vette using a Starter brought from GM. It is their mini starter with gear reduction. Not sure who makes it. Battery has been load tested at 2 different locations and tested good. Cables are a few years old when replaced and look good. Doesn't seem loose at the bellhousing.
Problem is when starting, cold or hot, it has a brief start, stops a bit and then turns the motor. Kinda like a false start.
Took it to Autozone and they tested it 4 times. All except 1 time it was good. In the 3rd run, you'd hear the gear shoot out like always and a whine which is normal BUT the little hesitation was heard.
To me, the starter needs to be rebuilt or a new one put in place. Any suggestions for rebuilding places in the Milwaukee area or a brand of replacement? I'd like to stick to the Mini starters because they are easier to get in considering I have headers.
I almost am ready to say the problem is with the starter but want confirmation from others since I might simply be seeing what I want to see. Last time I thought it was the battery. TIA
Problem is when starting, cold or hot, it has a brief start, stops a bit and then turns the motor. Kinda like a false start.
Took it to Autozone and they tested it 4 times. All except 1 time it was good. In the 3rd run, you'd hear the gear shoot out like always and a whine which is normal BUT the little hesitation was heard.
To me, the starter needs to be rebuilt or a new one put in place. Any suggestions for rebuilding places in the Milwaukee area or a brand of replacement? I'd like to stick to the Mini starters because they are easier to get in considering I have headers.
I almost am ready to say the problem is with the starter but want confirmation from others since I might simply be seeing what I want to see. Last time I thought it was the battery. TIA
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Joined: Apr 2011
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I just installed a mini and love it !
spins the bigger engine like a top...no drag, no hesitation. Sounds like a dodge minivan..but I'll get over that.
IIWM, I'd take it back and get an exchange or get it rebuilt. If its doing something weird just once in a while that is assured to be all the time, sooner or later. Probably sooner.
Too important a part to take a chance on. It'll fail when you're 120 miles from home....
spins the bigger engine like a top...no drag, no hesitation. Sounds like a dodge minivan..but I'll get over that.
IIWM, I'd take it back and get an exchange or get it rebuilt. If its doing something weird just once in a while that is assured to be all the time, sooner or later. Probably sooner.
Too important a part to take a chance on. It'll fail when you're 120 miles from home....
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
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From: moraga ca
I just installed a mini and love it !
spins the bigger engine like a top...no drag, no hesitation. Sounds like a dodge minivan..but I'll get over that.
IIWM, I'd take it back and get an exchange or get it rebuilt. If its doing something weird just once in a while that is assured to be all the time, sooner or later. Probably sooner.
Too important a part to take a chance on. It'll fail when you're 120 miles from home....
spins the bigger engine like a top...no drag, no hesitation. Sounds like a dodge minivan..but I'll get over that.
IIWM, I'd take it back and get an exchange or get it rebuilt. If its doing something weird just once in a while that is assured to be all the time, sooner or later. Probably sooner.
Too important a part to take a chance on. It'll fail when you're 120 miles from home....
Take it back to GM and tell them it works intermittantly or just that it doesn't work. They should replace it just like any other store.
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 361
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Sounds like your plunger is making intermitant contact. Ive rebuilt mine twice and for some reason one lug wears faster than the other. I couldn't find the rebuild kit in the major chain auto parts store last time but found one on fleebay, $25. I have my spare for sale, newly rebuilt and tested for $75 shipped.
Last edited by Corvette40; Mar 24, 2013 at 06:17 PM.
Safety Car
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For future reference
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Repair instructions
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Repair instructions
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
That is why I am puzzled. It passed 3 of the 4 tests but YET, when loaded up on the car, it shows that even more. Try to crank it and it cranks for a split second, stops and then proceeds to crank. So why does it burp for a second before it cranks?
BTDT. I was about 6 hrs away from home when my trans broke back in 91. I was feeling funny about it, got it flushed with the pan off and they tech yanked me back to see the crap in the pan. Told me it was a matter of time. We buttoned it up and it was fine for a while. 6 hrs away, it died. Thankfully I was in Madison WI and service was available although it cost me more. After all, they saw I had SD plates so they knew they had me behind the 8 ball
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 361
Likes: 6
For future reference
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Repair instructions
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Repair instructions
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html
That starter looks after market with a Chevy logo. Any numbers on it?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Is there a way to test that? Apparently it failed only once out of 4 times but that is WITHOUT a load of the engine on it. I suppose the only way to test it is to reinstall it and crank it with a direct link to a battery? Is there any way a rebuild shop has a way to simulate a load?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
True but that means a few more days till one gets in since there aren't many places that stock a mini starter with gear reduction and of good quality. A Tilton one for instance, I can't even find out till tomorrow. As to some of the Autozone ones, I'd rather get a Delco unit since I trust Autozone even less than my cheating ex girlfriend which I'd gladly give you for a Coke.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
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Take a look at the Hitachi that is used on the Powermaster starters and see how similar it appears.
In this link the solenoid is a #601 and the drive pinion #603. You can click on the images in this link to see a larger image. I'd call Powermaster for parts if they're similar.
http://www.pro-motorsports.net/product.cfm?InvKey=21616
Here's some more similar Hitachi parts images:
http://www.bpw-wd.com/infoImages/StarterParts.pdf
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 25, 2013 at 12:42 AM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Is your starter off the car now?
Take a look at the Hitachi that is used on the Powermaster starters and see how similar it appears.
In this link the solenoid is a #601 and the drive pinion #603. You can click on the images in this link to see a larger image. I'd call Powermaster for parts if they're similar.
http://www.pro-motorsports.net/product.cfm?InvKey=21616
Here's some more similar Hitachi parts images:
http://www.bpw-wd.com/infoImages/StarterParts.pdf
Take a look at the Hitachi that is used on the Powermaster starters and see how similar it appears.
In this link the solenoid is a #601 and the drive pinion #603. You can click on the images in this link to see a larger image. I'd call Powermaster for parts if they're similar.
http://www.pro-motorsports.net/product.cfm?InvKey=21616
Here's some more similar Hitachi parts images:
http://www.bpw-wd.com/infoImages/StarterParts.pdf
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
Likes: 2,733
As long as it's Hitachi (style)and there's little reason to doubt it you might check a local shop and ask if they have the solenoid and a clutch in stock for one. There's no confirming a vendor and you mention 3 or more years ago so it could have changed. I would be inclined to go for it.
Assume it's a 2.2KW and just ask for the drive clutch and a solenoid. The arm I would think is a seldom failed piece. Ask for a spring for the drive and if it's anyything like the old GM you need the clip and stopper for it.
You need to understand there's maybe 4 - 6 "knock-offs" out there now.
Assume it's a 2.2KW and just ask for the drive clutch and a solenoid. The arm I would think is a seldom failed piece. Ask for a spring for the drive and if it's anyything like the old GM you need the clip and stopper for it.
You need to understand there's maybe 4 - 6 "knock-offs" out there now.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
Likes: 2,733
Here's some Hitachi complete:
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/racecar.html
If I were to do a complete starter I'd lean towards the PowerMaster BUT who knows these days maybe they're all just "reboxed" and 90% are "knock-offs"!
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/racecar.html
If I were to do a complete starter I'd lean towards the PowerMaster BUT who knows these days maybe they're all just "reboxed" and 90% are "knock-offs"!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,379
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
I got back from the starter shop. Spins slower than they like. Oil from years of leaks has soaked it. The brushes are almost worn and the spring that retracts the drive gear is very weak. I got to see it before and after. Will see what it is like after I install it tonight or tomorrow night.