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I have new poly bushings in the control arms, but am learning that poly is great for compression, but not rotational movement. I lube the hell out of those puppies. Anyone know where I can get the stock bushings? or of some other material that is not high maintenance. Not looking for the dul-a-lum. I live in Arizona and it can get hot. Maybe that has something to do with it?
its poly.
nobody talked to you about the squeeking? ya sure?
the easy way out is to fit a grease zerk in the bushings and use a good hi-dollar syn-grease OR silicone grease if you can find it. Thats will stop the noise and give you the solid feel of poly bushings. The black rubber is around but hard to find sets.
Black rubber a-arm bushings sound great (literally). Anyone know where I can set them?
Chevy dealer. Every vendor out there sells the same poly crap. Learned my lesson on poly bushings a long time ago. Waste of time on the street,harsh riding,noisy grease fitting or not.
I think the poly stuff goes hand n hand with the TB airfoil and some other misc after-market BS that got sold to the avg car guy by the outrageous performance claims on the box. Never seen a box that said even in tiny print....beware the awful noises and squeeks that make your car sound like its falling apart
If THEY say it will make our car better, go faster or handle better....somebody WILL buy it. Everytime. Thats called Marketing and taking advantage of the irrational thought process of someone thats in love with his car...!
I think the poly stuff goes hand n hand with the TB airfoil and some other misc after-market BS that got sold to the avg car guy by the outrageous performance claims on the box. Never seen a box that said even in tiny print....beware the awful noises and squeeks that make your car sound like its falling apart
If THEY say it will make our car better, go faster or handle better....somebody WILL buy it. Everytime. Thats called Marketing and taking advantage of the irrational thought process of someone thats in love with his car...!
I rate poly bushings right down there with "brake upgrades" installing C5 C6 brakes on a C4 is a complete WASTE of money. C4 brakes will throw my ugly face through the windshield. Put a good set or rotors and pads on it and go. Stopping is stopping unless you're auto crossing the car.
I rate poly bushings right down there with "brake upgrades" installing C5 C6 brakes on a C4 is a complete WASTE of money. C4 brakes will throw my ugly face through the windshield. Put a good set or rotors and pads on it and go. Stopping is stopping unless you're auto crossing the car.
Care to measure brake distances? How about after the third successive hard stop? I know there's a hell of a difference between 11" brakes that my '86 came with, compared to the 13" C5 brakes that it now sports.
And for the OP: this is a Zerk fitting. It gets fed silicone grease once a year, haven't heard a squeak yet.
I like the zerk idea!
I take it I have to take the bushings out to drill and tap it...
Do I need to do anything to the bushing for the zerk or just reinstall and grease?
Yup, I did the Zerk install when I did the bushings. I also put a small groove in the bushing (with a Dremel) to allow the grease to distribute around the outside (of the bushing). Make sure the zerk is in a spot that it doesn't rub on anything and you can get a grease gun on it. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures at the time.
Care to measure brake distances? How about after the third successive hard stop? I know there's a hell of a difference between 11" brakes that my '86 came with, compared to the 13" C5 brakes that it now sports.
And for the OP: this is a Zerk fitting. It gets fed silicone grease once a year, haven't heard a squeak yet.
Oh please. If you're road racing fine but on a street car the stock brakes will stop a vette on a dime. Just how many times in a row at any given time am i going to hard stomp my brakes to create this terrifying fade? If your poly bushings work for you great. With rubber bushings i don't have to do a thing to them ever and imo they ride better.
Yup, I did the Zerk install when I did the bushings. I also put a small groove in the bushing (with a Dremel) to allow the grease to distribute around the outside (of the bushing). Make sure the zerk is in a spot that it doesn't rub on anything and you can get a grease gun on it. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures at the time.
This is backwards for poly, the outside of the bushing does not rotate and does not need lube. The bushing rotates on the inside metal sleeve and that is where lube is needed. Also the inside metal sleeve does not rotate, the control arm and bushing rotates about it. To lube remove the metal sleeve and drill a hole through the bushing then make a channel and replace the tube.
Sometimes there is a squeak from incorrect installation of the bushing being to long. If the bushing is longer than the inside metal sleeve the bushing will be squeezed causing the squeak. Here is a diagram:
When I built mine I was tempted to get creative. Instead of grinding a channel for the grease it might be possible to make it better. Heating something knurled and pressing it into the bushing to make a cross hatch pattern would be pretty cool.
The stock brakes with good quality pads worked great on mine car but not on a road course. People upgrade all the time for looks though.
GM never sold bushings for the front of a C4. YOu need to buy new arms ....
I suggest you regrease them...
This.
I had to tear my old rubber bushings out with a variety of methods to replace them with my polys. I imagine it would be near impossible to get rubber back in there without damaging it.
Check auction sites or anything related to Corvettes, but watch the price skyrocket.
There's a local shop near me that sells Corvette parts.
You can give him a call and see if he ships...
A friend of mine,he has a machine shop,bought a long rod of industrial rubber from an industrial supplier .He has removed old bushing and he has machined out from the rod all the new bushings.this kind of rubber is hard enough to give better handling without sacrifying confort and obviously no noises.He told me it was an hard work since he has to give a good interference but not too much becouse of the metal bushing.Once he had the first bushing to work fine,then was simply lathe work.
Last edited by tunedport85inject; Apr 11, 2013 at 03:25 PM.
This is backwards for poly, the outside of the bushing does not rotate and does not need lube. The bushing rotates on the inside metal sleeve and that is where lube is needed. Also the inside metal sleeve does not rotate, the control arm and bushing rotates about it. To lube remove the metal sleeve and drill a hole through the bushing then make a channel and replace the tube.
That may be true. I can't remember if I tried cross drill the front bushings also (I think I did but.... should have took some pictures). IIRC I did cut some lateral grooves on the trailing arm bushings at the split half, in an effort to channel some grease to the center sleeve.
Oh and as far as brake upgrades go: Oh yaas, 11" brakes are greeaat, that's why the Chevy upgraded to 12" brakes in '88, then 13" in '95. Because Corvette owners want big brakes to look cool.
I added zerks to all my suspension when I found that even the expensive bushing grease didn't last long. My car sees a lot of drag/road track use though so YMMV. I don't think I uploaded any control arm pics since C4 tech isn't that active any more. I looked and found a sway bar bushing pic:
Found one:
The bottom is more involved. A hole needs to be drilled in the flange metal to access the zerk. Speaking of zerks, anyone know of inexpensive covers? All I ever find are ten bucks for ten covers kind of deals. Very pricey for the small bit of plastic.