ZF6 Slave Leaking?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: NH
ZF6 Slave Leaking?
I have noticed that I have to keep topping off the clutch fluid on my 93 LT1/ZF6. I hadn't really paid much attention to it because it was going into winter storage. Well now it is out and back on the road and when doing the oil change, I noticed that it looks like clutch fluid lekaing from the bottom of the tranny housing. It is a PIA to get under the car, so I havent actually taken the slave off to look at it, but there is nothing else clutch related in there that would be leaking right? I am thinking its gotta be the boot on the slave or something, anyone know what usually fails/leaks on these? Any good sources for buying a slave? Is it worth keeping the core to send in to a rebuild place? Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Gay WV
The boot is to keep dust,and grit off the bore of your slave cylirder .The cups inside it really is where your troubles coming from...The sooner you replace it the better,It could cause your clutch to start slipping if fluid gets on it...I've rebuilt them on Chevy pick-ups,but they don't last very long,,I've never been charged a core charge ..I don't know about your car,but on some vehicles the throw out bearing is hydrolic (spelled wrong,I know).If that's the case you will need to pull the transmission.
Last edited by True Mountaneer; Apr 16, 2013 at 05:27 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
I have noticed that I have to keep topping off the clutch fluid on my 93 LT1/ZF6. I hadn't really paid much attention to it because it was going into winter storage. Well now it is out and back on the road and when doing the oil change, I noticed that it looks like clutch fluid lekaing from the bottom of the tranny housing. It is a PIA to get under the car, so I havent actually taken the slave off to look at it, but there is nothing else clutch related in there that would be leaking right? I am thinking its gotta be the boot on the slave or something, anyone know what usually fails/leaks on these? Any good sources for buying a slave? Is it worth keeping the core to send in to a rebuild place? Thanks.
Unless there's been a recent industry change, the slave on the ZF6 equipped Vettes is not rebuildable and no one will ask for it as a core. It's a nice paperweight.
Power Torque Systems has the last of the remaining NOS parts. At $150, it's a bargain. You can spend a little less for a knock-off...and likely end up spending several times more than $150 over a period of a few months as each of the "cheaper" units fails.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,128
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From: Pineville Louisiana
Power Torque Systems has the last of the remaining NOS parts. At $150, it's a bargain. You can spend a little less for a knock-off...and likely end up spending several times more than $150 over a period of a few months as each of the "cheaper" units fails.
Jim M how are you liking the C6 GS?
Daniel
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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I never got a response from Jim when I was looking. As such, I passed him over. With reading, I found that O'Reilly's units are lasting pretty well. Most units are going at least 2 or 3 years if not longer. And, they are 1/3rd the cost of the NOS units. Can't bet on the NOS units lasting 6-9 years IMO. And, that's what it would take to equal value...unless you pay for installation.
I do think Jim and Bill (ZFDoc) have been know to rebuild slaves. They're about the same cost at the O'Reilly IIRC.
I do think Jim and Bill (ZFDoc) have been know to rebuild slaves. They're about the same cost at the O'Reilly IIRC.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: NEwhere Ohio
Jim jandik set me up with a slave/ master cylinder. He also really wanted my old one as a core. Works great.
I'm not sure I'm on the bandwagon with him about what he's spouting out about aftermarket clutches.
For example, he thinks all spec clutches are garbage. I've had great luck with a spec stage 3+ on my 500 rwhp/ rwtq car.
I'm not sure I'm on the bandwagon with him about what he's spouting out about aftermarket clutches.
For example, he thinks all spec clutches are garbage. I've had great luck with a spec stage 3+ on my 500 rwhp/ rwtq car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: NH
[QUOTE=GREGGPENN;1583658412]With reading, I found that O'Reilly's units are lasting pretty well. Most units are going at least 2 or 3 years if not longer. And, they are 1/3rd the cost of the NOS units. Can't bet on the NOS units lasting 6-9 years IMO. And, that's what it would take to equal value...unless you pay for installation.
QUOTE]
Thanks for tip, I found it, its even cheaper than what I found on ebay. Thats the way I am going to go.
QUOTE]
Thanks for tip, I found it, its even cheaper than what I found on ebay. Thats the way I am going to go.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
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Honestly, I think this one of the few cases where the aftermarket part beats the original. My original one began to leak and while under the car I had someone operate the clutch. I could see the stamped steel slave cylinder deflecting under the load.
I got an aftermarket one. No leak and a cast steel body that doesn't flex. 3 yrs, no probs so far. Replaced the master last year as prevention with a simar aftermarket cast unit.
I got an aftermarket one. No leak and a cast steel body that doesn't flex. 3 yrs, no probs so far. Replaced the master last year as prevention with a simar aftermarket cast unit.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 170
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From: NH
So I have the part and it has been sitting on my shelf for a couple weeks. I just got a house that needs to be renovated which takes up all my weekends, but topping off the fluid every week is getting annoying. Any estimates on how long this job takes? No special tools right? If I remember right, its just a couple bolts holding it on, undoing the line, and then bleeding the clutch is probably the longest part of the job. Am I missing something?