what is involved in gutting the maf and does any changes have to be made such as ecm chip ect?

 

I don't think you have to change the ecm. To gut the maf, just remove the screens and cut the heatsinks down flush with the 'body' of the maf. take care not to damage the little filament in the middle.

 

Oh yes you do! Now let me explain. The car will run with the MAF gutted, but some items will be messed up with the MAF tables being altered. Will you notice the changes. Your guess is as good as mine. My idle went to hell in a hurry after I did mine. Changed the MAF table 1 and all was great again. You setup may not be affected as much. Guess you will have to try.

I will say that unless you do other mods, its probably in your best interest to leave it alone. I just tuned a guys car this weekend and his idle BLMs were all hosed up from messing with the MAF. Got it straightened out for him.

Good Luck! :cheers:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 11:18 AM 6/24/2002]

 

After gutting my MAF I had no idle issues what-so-ever.

 

I've had no problems with mine either?!?!

 

I guess my other ? is does doing this to maf actually do much for performance or should I just leave it alone?
THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK HELP.

 

It really depends on your setup. If you are pulling in enough air to max out the MAF as is, then definitely yank the screens to increase flow by about 30%. If not, then I would leave it alone for now.

 

THANKS FOR THE HELP

 

Hold on fellas.

As I described above, the car will run, but I will bet you my car that the BLMs are messed up at idle with the MAF gutted. Not saying you will notice it, but it is definately messed up.

There is a difference between things working and working right. The maf was calibrated with the fins and screens installed. The calibration can not be correct with then removed. GM has new MAFs that have 3 seperate wires on on each side of the main one to correct even further.

All in all, I was just making you aware of the *issues* associated with gutting the MAF. Your car will run, it will not throw codes, etc. But it is not calibrated correctly.

So go get the hack-saw like the rest of us did and ruin the time and money spent by the general making it right. :lol: The whole time I was sawing at mine, I kept asking myself, are you freakin for real. Took me about 30 minuted and a few blister later. Couldn't tell one bit of difference, except the idle BLMs went to 150-160. Worth it? You tell me?


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 1:01 PM 6/24/2002] :cheers:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 1:04 PM 6/24/2002]

 

Messed up or not I had no driveability changes, slightly better throttle response, and no loss in ET. The computer 'appeared' to be fine with it.

 

I noticed a slightly rougher idle and also a stumble from cruise mode to 1/2 throttle. It did mess up my MAF tables. This won't happen by removing the screens but it will occur by cutting out the cooling fins. Luckily I have a spare MAF. You can burn a custom chip to compensate for this mod but stock chip programming or an off the shelf one will be effected.
John

 

I think I will leave it as the general made it since I haven't heard alot of difference noticed from you all.Just thought maybe it would possibly make noticable hp difference seeing posts of many doing it.
Going from my 81 to this 89 there is a big difference in power already.

 

Idle as smooth as silk. Definitely noticed better throttle response. Even if it's just .1 in the 1/4, do it. Did I mention the MAF looks more attractive when it's gutted?

 

:rolleyes:

How many times do you pull it off to look at it? Wheels are attractive. MAF?

:lol: :lol:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 9:29 PM 6/24/2002]