C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

injector resistance

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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 06:57 AM
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Default injector resistance

I've found another vac leak and it idles smooth now but still has a bit of a hesitation-stumble just off idle. I cleaned the injectors but it's still there. My motor shows 190K but was rebuilt 20-30K ago. It feels a bit like an injector to me. I've been told I can read the resistance on the injectors to help determine which is bad. What value am I looking for?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 07:39 AM
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About 17 ohms

Last edited by AGENT 86; Jun 14, 2013 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 11:17 AM
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Who cleaned them and how? Was it tested then or what? How long ago?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Who cleaned them and how? Was it tested then or what? How long ago?
I cleaned them with in tank cleaner (AKA auto trans fluid, dextron/mecuracron) I know it's old school but it works. It's always the first step for me if I suspect an injector.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
I cleaned them with in tank cleaner (AKA auto trans fluid, dextron/mecuracron) I know it's old school but it works. It's always the first step for me if I suspect an injector.
I can't say I have ever seen it work so IDK. I send mine out every 3 years for cleaning and testing. I have test results of before and after which helps determine the next cleaning cycle. I am not sure about ATF in the tank or how it affects the injectors which are already sensitive to too much ethanol.

At their age, it don't think it will be a bad idea to replace them with Bosch III reman ones since they have been flow tested already.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I can't say I have ever seen it work so IDK. I send mine out every 3 years for cleaning and testing. I have test results of before and after which helps determine the next cleaning cycle. I am not sure about ATF in the tank or how it affects the injectors which are already sensitive to too much ethanol.

At their age, it don't think it will be a bad idea to replace them with Bosch III reman ones since they have been flow tested already.
I had bought this car to flip but we liked it. At this point I'm trying to fix everything that's wrong but in a way that's as affordable as I can. As for the ATF, it's old school. You always want to use the old style fluid too, none of the new stuff. back in the day, the big three would dump a qt of ATF into the tanks on the assembly line, SOP. It's just a lite, high detergent oil, and it works wonders on old carbs and injectors. My vehicles all get a pt every 6mos or so.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
I had bought this car to flip but we liked it. At this point I'm trying to fix everything that's wrong but in a way that's as affordable as I can. As for the ATF, it's old school. You always want to use the old style fluid too, none of the new stuff. back in the day, the big three would dump a qt of ATF into the tanks on the assembly line, SOP. It's just a lite, high detergent oil, and it works wonders on old carbs and injectors. My vehicles all get a pt every 6mos or so.
It would depend on how long you are trying to keep it. I don't plan to sell my car so I did the injectors. Multecs are not great with ethanol and most every place doesn't sell ethanol free gas so that would be something that had to be done.

Besides, if you suspect injectors, I would have them tested so I can see the spray pattern and volume. Try asking a local tech college if they have a flow bench for injectors. If not, I would send them out for testing just to eliminate a problem. I'd prefer getting a reman set if it were me since I know those injectors are old and not ethanol resistant.

I haven't used any of the old school techniques so I wouldn't know how well it works. I don't work on carburetors and farm those out when it has problems. Personally, I am not a fan of dumping stuff in a tank in hopes that it gets everything clean. To me it is like cleaning a room in the dark. Never know how much more needs to be cleaned. YMMV but for $15 an injector, it would be good to know how they flow and spray.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
It would depend on how long you are trying to keep it. I don't plan to sell my car so I did the injectors. Multecs are not great with ethanol and most every place doesn't sell ethanol free gas so that would be something that had to be done.

Besides, if you suspect injectors, I would have them tested so I can see the spray pattern and volume. Try asking a local tech college if they have a flow bench for injectors. If not, I would send them out for testing just to eliminate a problem. I'd prefer getting a reman set if it were me since I know those injectors are old and not ethanol resistant.

I haven't used any of the old school techniques so I wouldn't know how well it works. I don't work on carburetors and farm those out when it has problems. Personally, I am not a fan of dumping stuff in a tank in hopes that it gets everything clean. To me it is like cleaning a room in the dark. Never know how much more needs to be cleaned. YMMV but for $15 an injector, it would be good to know how they flow and spray.
Yes, that's cheep enough. With having to replace the transmission, I'm way over budget. just trying to save a little coin.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
Yes, that's cheep enough. With having to replace the transmission, I'm way over budget. just trying to save a little coin.
Kinda why I asked if you were keeping it. Im not shy about going over budget if it saves me more aggravating times diwn the toad. Multec injectors aren't the greatest things since sliced bread so I'd dump them so I don't have to worry for a while. It sucks to spend more than budget but saving aggravation is good.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Kinda why I asked if you were keeping it. Im not shy about going over budget if it saves me more aggravating times diwn the toad. Multec injectors aren't the greatest things since sliced bread so I'd dump them so I don't have to worry for a while. It sucks to spend more than budget but saving aggravation is good.
I hate taking the cheep but I've been off work 6 weeks due to a hand injury and have to watch it. I always prefer to do it once, do it right, then do something else. It's just not an option for me right now. I'll get it. I still have a few rabbits hiding in my hat.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
I hate taking the cheep but I've been off work 6 weeks due to a hand injury and have to watch it. I always prefer to do it once, do it right, then do something else. It's just not an option for me right now. I'll get it. I still have a few rabbits hiding in my hat.
If you can't swing the injectors now, lets try something a little different. Again, it can't hurt and it is something you probably must do anyways. Remove the Throttle Body and clean it up. Remove the IAC motor and the IAC housing. Clean all passages. DO NOT reuse the paper gaskets. I treat them like condoms. I don't reuse either.

Clean all passages and give it a light lube. Make sure that the blades are smooth when you open them like you would with the go pedal.

Now that all passages are clean, reassemble. Try find yourself a scanner and sit in the car with the engine off but key in run. SLOWLY depress the go pedal and see if the TPS voltage goes up smoothly. If not, you are probably out $120 for a TPS from Mr Goodwrench. Not sure who else makes a decent TPS but don't get a junkyard one.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
If you can't swing the injectors now, lets try something a little different. Again, it can't hurt and it is something you probably must do anyways. Remove the Throttle Body and clean it up. Remove the IAC motor and the IAC housing. Clean all passages. DO NOT reuse the paper gaskets. I treat them like condoms. I don't reuse either.

Clean all passages and give it a light lube. Make sure that the blades are smooth when you open them like you would with the go pedal.

Now that all passages are clean, reassemble. Try find yourself a scanner and sit in the car with the engine off but key in run. SLOWLY depress the go pedal and see if the TPS voltage goes up smoothly. If not, you are probably out $120 for a TPS from Mr Goodwrench. Not sure who else makes a decent TPS but don't get a junkyard one.
That was the first thing I did. New gaskets too. Cleaned the IAC and passages. I don't remember the readings on the IAC coils but they were the same. I bought a new TPS from Advance but it was worse than the one I took off. They took it back. They didn't have to but they did.)
This evening I pulled the coil wires off the EGR solenoid and it seemed to help some. A few min later, it stalled out. Nothing is consistent. It does seem to run better WO the EGR sol hooked up though. But, I still have that stupid hesitation. GRRRRR! This is the kind of thing that will bug me till I get it. I will too.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
But, I still have that stupid hesitation. GRRRRR! This is the kind of thing that will bug me till I get it. I will too.
Have you tested your fuel pressure under load and idle ?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Have you tested your fuel pressure under load and idle ?
No. Honestly, I'm way out of my comfort zone. I have to stop and think hard about everything that's going on in this system and there's so much I don't understand yet. And, I get side tracked easily. It's hard to follow through with some of my trouble shooting and I don't have the tools I need so I'm always trying to adapt what I have on hand. I may just bite the bullet and take it to my local GM dealer.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
No. Honestly, I'm way out of my comfort zone. I have to stop and think hard about everything that's going on in this system and there's so much I don't understand yet. And, I get side tracked easily. It's hard to follow through with some of my trouble shooting and I don't have the tools I need so I'm always trying to adapt what I have on hand. I may just bite the bullet and take it to my local GM dealer.
It's so easy, a caveman can do it. Find schraeder valve, unscrew cap, screw fuel pressure gauge on. Turn car to run and see pressure. Turn car off, go for a bit and see pressure. Run car, see pressure. Take off regulator hose and see pressure. Go for a WOT run and see pressure.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
It's so easy, a caveman can do it. Find schraeder valve, unscrew cap, screw fuel pressure gauge on. Turn car to run and see pressure. Turn car off, go for a bit and see pressure. Run car, see pressure. Take off regulator hose and see pressure. Go for a WOT run and see pressure.
You do make it sound easy. Bongo like!
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
You do make it sound easy. Bongo like!
Bingo Bango Bongo, its so easy in the Congo.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wedgeheaded
You do make it sound easy. Bongo like!
The hardest part would be to get a hose long enough to tape the gauge to your glass for WOT runs.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Never know how much more needs to be cleaned. YMMV but for $15 an injector, it would be good to know how they flow and spray.
Could you turn us on to the company that cleans the injectors for $15.00?
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mixalive
Could you turn us on to the company that cleans the injectors for $15.00?
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...?productid=380

My bad. $18 for an injector but $105 for a set of 8 which is $13.13 per.
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