Starter vs VATS?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 112
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From: Lone Tree CO
Starter vs VATS?
My ignition key has a chip.
When i turn the key in the ignition sometimes there is no attempt for the starter to engage. However, i have found that if i turn the key and hold it for 2 seconds (or slightly rotate key) all the sudden the start will kick in strong and the engine starts. At first i thought it immediately to be the solenoid. Then i started thinking possible the VATS going bad as there is not a definite click when you turn the key like i have heard when past starters have gone bad.
I am probably over thinking the issue but don't want to spend the money on a starter if that is not the problem?
BTW my son lost the ignition key this week. Can i take the serial number to the Dealer and get a new one made even though it needs the chip for the VATS?
I welcome suggestions???
When i turn the key in the ignition sometimes there is no attempt for the starter to engage. However, i have found that if i turn the key and hold it for 2 seconds (or slightly rotate key) all the sudden the start will kick in strong and the engine starts. At first i thought it immediately to be the solenoid. Then i started thinking possible the VATS going bad as there is not a definite click when you turn the key like i have heard when past starters have gone bad.
I am probably over thinking the issue but don't want to spend the money on a starter if that is not the problem?
BTW my son lost the ignition key this week. Can i take the serial number to the Dealer and get a new one made even though it needs the chip for the VATS?
I welcome suggestions???
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
My ignition key has a chip.
When i turn the key in the ignition sometimes there is no attempt for the starter to engage. However, i have found that if i turn the key and hold it for 2 seconds (or slightly rotate key) all the sudden the start will kick in strong and the engine starts. At first i thought it immediately to be the solenoid. Then i started thinking possible the VATS going bad as there is not a definite click when you turn the key like i have heard when past starters have gone bad.
I am probably over thinking the issue but don't want to spend the money on a starter if that is not the problem?
BTW my son lost the ignition key this week. Can i take the serial number to the Dealer and get a new one made even though it needs the chip for the VATS?
I welcome suggestions???
When i turn the key in the ignition sometimes there is no attempt for the starter to engage. However, i have found that if i turn the key and hold it for 2 seconds (or slightly rotate key) all the sudden the start will kick in strong and the engine starts. At first i thought it immediately to be the solenoid. Then i started thinking possible the VATS going bad as there is not a definite click when you turn the key like i have heard when past starters have gone bad.
I am probably over thinking the issue but don't want to spend the money on a starter if that is not the problem?
BTW my son lost the ignition key this week. Can i take the serial number to the Dealer and get a new one made even though it needs the chip for the VATS?
I welcome suggestions???
Now the VATS information is tough! Have the dealer cut you a "work key" to check the mechanical operation. They might not have a "work key" if not contact a key shop or good hardware. GM # for "work key" is # 26007687.
Send your son out for a "find the key" day!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 23, 2013 at 01:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 112
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From: Lone Tree CO
Thank you for the post. I could not figure out how you can loose a key in 2 hours when you never leave the 3 bay area....kids!!!
BTW does the work key bypass the VATS? I have a viper alarm system also, is there a way to disarm the VATS to not require the chip?
BTW does the work key bypass the VATS? I have a viper alarm system also, is there a way to disarm the VATS to not require the chip?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
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Yes an "Interrogator" is a valuable tool. There's only 14 different resistances in '93 the #1 value was a one year only possibility. The VATS issue is of no consequence unless there's a mechanical key that rotates the cylinder, if the "key number on file" at time of build isn't correct for "rotation" then the entire game changes. One step at a time!
The "hunt for the key" is where I'd guess the start should begin !!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Yes an "Interrogator" is a valuable tool. There's only 14 different resistances in '93 the #1 value was a one year only possibility. The VATS issue is of no consequence unless there's a mechanical key that rotates the cylinder, if the "key number on file" at time of build isn't correct for "rotation" then the entire game changes. One step at a time!
The "hunt for the key" is where I'd guess the start should begin !!
The "hunt for the key" is where I'd guess the start should begin !!
Find the key and you life will be a whole lot simpler. If not you may have to replace the lock cylinder and then find which key code (resistance) it is.
If you find the key, get a spare made and measure the pellet resistance.
If you have to go thru the expense of replacing the cylinder, get a spare made and measure the pellet resistance!
From the resistance you can get the key code from the chart.
I also think you have a bad starter. That can be pretty characteristic of how the solenoids go bad (VATS does not act like that).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
If it is a VATS issue, when you turn the key to start, and nothing happens, look at the "security" light. If it is on, it's a vats issue. If it is not on, it is not the vats.
I am not sure of the process or what is needed, but VATS bypassing has been discussed often on this forum. Shouldn't be too hard to search for.
I am not sure of the process or what is needed, but VATS bypassing has been discussed often on this forum. Shouldn't be too hard to search for.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 26
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Having bought an 87 this spring I had vats issues as the (2) locksmiths could not determine the working keys resistance with their readers.
I took it to a GM dealer and they read the 1-15 code easily.
I went back to the locksmith and had a spare key cut. The locksmith told me they can pull the key cylinder and the resistance code is stamped on it.
I was also told that using a large key cluster causes the resistor to wear rapidly and eventually cause trouble.
I have no proof the resistance is on the cylinder but it makes sense??
I took it to a GM dealer and they read the 1-15 code easily.
I went back to the locksmith and had a spare key cut. The locksmith told me they can pull the key cylinder and the resistance code is stamped on it.
I was also told that using a large key cluster causes the resistor to wear rapidly and eventually cause trouble.
I have no proof the resistance is on the cylinder but it makes sense??
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Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
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And yes , having other keys rubbing against the resistor pellet are not going to help it's longativity
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,250
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From: San Diego Ca
I don't have this problem yet with my Corvette but I do with my 93 Camaro. I have two keys and generally carry both. My impression is that the resistor is wearing out. First I wipe it well when it doesn't immediately work. Second I try the other key. Has always worked so far.
Of course none of this doesn't prove that it is not the starter or solenoid also.
Perry
Of course none of this doesn't prove that it is not the starter or solenoid also.
Perry
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
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The last car that I owned that had a Viper alarm system had the VATS bypassed. Dunno if this is part of the installation of this system or not. I eventually had the system removed. The Viper itself had killed the ignition, and would do so intermittently. It never did any good anyway. When it would go off, it would just run the battery down.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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NO ! The work-key only duplicates the mechanical cut and confirms at least that the cylinder replacement is NOT required. If the work-key does NOT rotate then it's likely lock cylinder replacement and then the interrogator procedure.