U joint issue maybe!
but when you start in first , it sounds like a bed spring creeking , is that a U joint going?

MZee
I';ve given up on diagnosing noises over the internet !
what one guy calls a grinding the next calls a screeching/crackling noise...too hard to interpret.
Jack car up, rock wheel back & forth and watch drive line and listen. Then grab at top and bottom and try to wiggle in/out. If you feel wiggle the bearing is GONE and must be replaced now. If you have a joint that sounds that bad as you describe it will soon fall out and you walk home. Don't push your luck.
80,000 miles is about avg for bearings, joints and frt brakes...some bushings as well depending on how the maint was done.
I';ve given up on diagnosing noises over the internet !
what one guy calls a grinding the next calls a screeching/crackling noise...too hard to interpret.
Jack car up, rock wheel back & forth and watch drive line and listen. Then grab at top and bottom and try to wiggle in/out. If you feel wiggle the bearing is GONE and must be replaced now. If you have a joint that sounds that bad as you describe it will soon fall out and you walk home. Don't push your luck.
80,000 miles is about avg for bearings, joints and frt brakes...some bushings as well depending on how the maint was done.
They think nothing is lose, but they are guessing it's the beginning of a U joint, left rear.But can't tell.
So, they said bring it next week, it's a big job to take the axle off, check etc.Guess, five hours etc.So I guess because the car is perfect in every other way, I should.Going on a trip tonight 2 hours there 2 hours back, hoping it's ok.
Thanks so much for the quick reply!
MZee
That creaking or clicking when accelerating is abit spooky to hear.
Thanks,
MZee
They think nothing is lose, but they are guessing it's the beginning of a U joint, left rear.But can't tell.
So, they said bring it next week, it's a big job to take the axle off, check etc.Guess, five hours etc.So I guess because the car is perfect in every other way, I should.Going on a trip tonight 2 hours there 2 hours back, hoping it's ok.
Thanks so much for the quick reply!
MZee

that's a big pile of BS ! they see $$$ in them there pockets of yers...

On a lift, its a 5 minute job to drop a short shaft. Main shaft maybe 30mins since you have to drop the C-beam to make it easy.Thats 4 other bolts that you will have to suffer thru....poor mechanic...an extra 4 bolts? that's an extra charge !
remove 4 u-joint strap bolts, both ends of the short shaft and watch your head cause the shaft will FALL out and might hit you !
.
You need to find a shop/mechanic that's got Corvette experience otherwise you will get RAPED at the avg shop that knows nuthin about vettes...They will ALWAYS go the long way, the hard way, or the wrong way because they are not trained or educated in Corvette technology and yes, it IS different. The MYTH is to most repair shops and wanna be mechanics that working on a Corvette is a bitch...and its simply NOT true. Its a bitch when you're an idiot or do not have the proper tools...otherwise its usually a cake walk. There ARE some things that are difficult....but short shafts (or half shafts) ain;t one of them. Too easy. Done in driveways all across the country every Saturday.
Contact your local Corvette club or performance shop and see who they use.
These generic repair shops, INCLUDING dealers (aka as Stealerships) will over charge YOU for their ignorance and their (lack of)education. Why should YOU pay for them to LEARN how to do a u-joint change on a C4 vette?

Good luck, just don't wait too long. That clicking noise is your only warning.
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I'm at the point where not only do I hear a clunk/clink/metal bang/ping/etc... but I also have some pretty awesome movement of the shaft whenever I give it throttle(even the slightest)
Vibration in your butt on the highway is also a sign of a U-joint. Mine's a symphony at 75
There is a teflon coated washer on the outer stub axle for the rear wheel brgs that can also make a clicking or creaking noise at low speed under light loads.... it is much easier and cheaper to change.
GM Part Number 14076924
Good thread with pics located here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...changed-2.html
If it turns out to be the U-Joints, they are very easy to change yourself. I often check/change U-Joints on my race car and it's a 20 min per side job to get the half shaft out. ten 10mins per joint on the work bench. Quite possiblly there is a CF member in your area that can/will help you. Don't get mugged by some shop charging a Corvette Tax.
Will
There is a teflon coated washer on the outer stub axle for the rear wheel brgs that can also make a clicking or creaking noise at low speed under light loads.... it is much easier and cheaper to change.
GM Part Number 14076924
Good thread with pics located here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...changed-2.html
If it turns out to be the U-Joints, they are very easy to change yourself. I often check/change U-Joints on my race car and it's a 20 min per side job to get the half shaft out. ten 10mins per joint on the work bench. Quite possiblly there is a CF member in your area that can/will help you. Don't get mugged by some shop charging a Corvette Tax.
Will
you have made my day!
Mzee
There is a teflon coated washer on the outer stub axle for the rear wheel brgs that can also make a clicking or creaking noise at low speed under light loads.... it is much easier and cheaper to change.
GM Part Number 14076924
Good thread with pics located here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...changed-2.html
If it turns out to be the U-Joints, they are very easy to change yourself. I often check/change U-Joints on my race car and it's a 20 min per side job to get the half shaft out. ten 10mins per joint on the work bench. Quite possiblly there is a CF member in your area that can/will help you. Don't get mugged by some shop charging a Corvette Tax.
Will
I took off the rear brakes, hubs, and wirebrushed the stub ends. I then applied antiseize to the stub end/ hub and reassembled.
10 yrs later the clunk was gone. I replaced u joints, as cheap insurance, and the shop that did it said there was nothing wrong with my old ones.
That was on a 500+ rwhp 93 with zf6spd
antizeize to the stub end
Last edited by dizwiz24; Jul 8, 2013 at 10:21 PM.
I took off the rear brakes, hubs, and wirebrushed the stub ends. I then applied antiseize to the stub end/ hub and reassembled.
10 yrs later the clunk was gone. I replaced u joints, as cheap insurance, and the shop that did it said there was nothing wrong with my old ones.
That was on a 500+ rwhp 93 with zf6spd
antizeize to the stub end
Thanks, I will make all those suggestions, Teflon washer, your suggestion etc.
MZee
thank you very much for all your guidance.
It was not U joints, it was exactly what was diagnosed. Coated washer for stub axles.
No stock so I have to wait for a week . they put it back together.Runs great and it's creaking alittle for now. Thanks again,
While I was in there. Replaced right passenger window motor so that the tired window now flies up and down.
Total flush, coolant, oil, all fluids, K and N air filter.fuel filter, all done, plugs etc.
MZee
MZee















