VATS resistance (OHM) help!
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VATS resistance (OHM) help!
Dear friends,
I want to order some new ignition keys for my 1988 Corvette, since sometimes it does not start, ramdomly, and I think that the cause is the chip on the ignition key, that is very worn.
I have used a multimeter to measure the resistance value on the chip of my key and it returns 602.
I have checked the values to order the correct key and see that code 2 is from 502 to 564, and code 3 from 650 to 728.
So, at what code corresponds a value of 602?
My multimeter have a margin of error of 0.8%, and by the other way, as said, the chip on my key is worn. I rather think that correct code is 3, but any help of and experienced member would be very much appreciated.
I want to order some new ignition keys for my 1988 Corvette, since sometimes it does not start, ramdomly, and I think that the cause is the chip on the ignition key, that is very worn.
I have used a multimeter to measure the resistance value on the chip of my key and it returns 602.
I have checked the values to order the correct key and see that code 2 is from 502 to 564, and code 3 from 650 to 728.
So, at what code corresponds a value of 602?
My multimeter have a margin of error of 0.8%, and by the other way, as said, the chip on my key is worn. I rather think that correct code is 3, but any help of and experienced member would be very much appreciated.
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Last edited by don hall; Nov 5, 2013 at 12:45 PM.
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oops. didnt see that post! if you have 2 ignition keys compare the values
Last edited by smooth1990; Nov 5, 2013 at 01:18 PM.
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If you're checking in K Ohms you'll likely have a value of .XXX or X.XXX just move the decimal 3 places and there's your results. Here's the range of acceptable values.
602 doesn't compute and it doesn't = 12. These values would compute 6.02 would convert to 6020 and be a 12 if you were using K Ohm.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 5, 2013 at 01:52 PM.
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Go to www.vette2vette.com and order a used VATS control module. Ask Jason to tell you what the code is for the one he is sending you. You can then order a new ignition switch and 2 new keys for that code.
Some times the ignition cylinder becomes worn out and no longer reads the key's pellet.
Here is the control module (the grey square object:
Jason tests these before sending them out and guarantees them.
Here is the listing at Corvette Central for the new ignition switch:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050F
This procedure fixed the 87 that I used to own and it has worked perfectly for 8 years now.
Some times the ignition cylinder becomes worn out and no longer reads the key's pellet.
Here is the control module (the grey square object:
Jason tests these before sending them out and guarantees them.
Here is the listing at Corvette Central for the new ignition switch:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050F
This procedure fixed the 87 that I used to own and it has worked perfectly for 8 years now.
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Go to www.vette2vette.com and order a used VATS control module. Ask Jason to tell you what the code is for the one he is sending you. You can then order a new ignition switch and 2 new keys for that code.
Some times the ignition cylinder becomes worn out and no longer reads the key's pellet.
This procedure fixed the 87 that I used to own and it has worked perfectly for 8 years now.
Some times the ignition cylinder becomes worn out and no longer reads the key's pellet.
This procedure fixed the 87 that I used to own and it has worked perfectly for 8 years now.
I'd say the OP is on the right track!
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Does it CRANK?
Does it crank but not RUN?
If it doesn't crank then you MIGHT have a VATS issue. There are other things that can cause this.
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Dear friends, first of all, thanks to all the community for the help.
The key is difinitively code #12, since I set the ohm-meter to 20k and it reads 6.02, that is 6020 (european system uses . for decimals). I have found specific instructions here:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/1986-1996-CHE...1a3aab9&_uhb=1
My old key has both pellets on the VATS "chip" really worn (one almost at the same level of the black plastic), so in the first place I will see if ordering a new key fix the problem. If not, I will go to replace the cylinder and if that does neither works, the module. But I hope that the problem is strictly related to the key.
Concretely, the problem is that the car starts flawlessly, but few times it does not start, I mean the cylinders do not explode. When I turn on the key, the engine "turns" and the car has electricity, and the fuel pump sounds correctly, but it seems like the injectors are not working, I mean no fuel reach the cylinders. Injectors, spark plugs, ignition coil, cables, battery... all is new and, like I have said, the 90% of the times the car starts like a kitten. But when it does not start, no matter how many tries you do: you need to wait some minutes, then starts again perfectly. So in another post some people told me that this is VATS for sure.
The key is difinitively code #12, since I set the ohm-meter to 20k and it reads 6.02, that is 6020 (european system uses . for decimals). I have found specific instructions here:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/1986-1996-CHE...1a3aab9&_uhb=1
My old key has both pellets on the VATS "chip" really worn (one almost at the same level of the black plastic), so in the first place I will see if ordering a new key fix the problem. If not, I will go to replace the cylinder and if that does neither works, the module. But I hope that the problem is strictly related to the key.
Concretely, the problem is that the car starts flawlessly, but few times it does not start, I mean the cylinders do not explode. When I turn on the key, the engine "turns" and the car has electricity, and the fuel pump sounds correctly, but it seems like the injectors are not working, I mean no fuel reach the cylinders. Injectors, spark plugs, ignition coil, cables, battery... all is new and, like I have said, the 90% of the times the car starts like a kitten. But when it does not start, no matter how many tries you do: you need to wait some minutes, then starts again perfectly. So in another post some people told me that this is VATS for sure.
Last edited by mitcher; Nov 6, 2013 at 01:57 PM.
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That's a rather extreme move for the OP's problem. If he ID's the key correctly and the key doesn't rectify the situation then you would do the cylinder and new keys with the resistance of those that you have after THIS - substituting a resistor of the correct value to see if that solves the intermittent crank. If the resistor resolves the "no crank" then you do the cylinder and keys. There may be no need to do either the dash disassembly or the purchase of the module. If it's a module problem after that you purchase a module specifying the "resistance".
I'd say the OP is on the right track!
I'd say the OP is on the right track!
I would substitute a resistor pack in the wiring and see is that solves your issue. Atleast Then you know what you are dealing with and if your problem indeed does have to do with the VATS system. Substituting a resistor pack will cost a fraction of the cost for a new cylinder or module. Just my .02
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Concretely, the problem is that the car starts flawlessly, but few times it does not start, I mean the cylinders do not explode. When I turn on the key, the engine "turns" and the car has electricity, and the fuel pump sounds correctly, but it seems like the injectors are not working, I mean no fuel reach the cylinders. Injectors, spark plugs, ignition coil, cables, battery... all is new and, like I have said, the 90% of the times the car starts like a kitten. But when it does not start, no matter how many tries you do: you need to wait some minutes, then starts again perfectly. So in another post some people told me that this is VATS for sure.
My VATS problems were caused by bent contacts in the ignition switch. A new switch fixed the problem and it has worked perfectly for the last 15 years.
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VATS disables both the starter and the fuel injectors. BUT, some people bypass the VATS starter relay so that the starter works even if VATS is not seeing the correct key pellet (or a bad connection). Since your car cranks but doesn't start, it appears that this modification has been done.
My VATS problems were caused by bent contacts in the ignition switch. A new switch fixed the problem and it has worked perfectly for the last 15 years.
My VATS problems were caused by bent contacts in the ignition switch. A new switch fixed the problem and it has worked perfectly for the last 15 years.
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Sometimes the relay goes bad. Instead of replacing the relay people bypass it by connecting the two large yellow wires together.
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It just means you don't have to buy a new starter relay and you still have anti theft protection because the injectors are cut off without the correct key in the Ign.
WVZR-1 will disagree but being in your location if you can't obtain the correct key to make VATS function I would buy and install this unit (which is true VATS bypass )
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/
to supply the fuel enable signal to the computer and then install a another means of protection like a hidden switch for the fuel pump