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The factory clamp has a bend in it, make sure it is installed with the high point in the center on the top. If put on upside down it may not clamp. Also, the hole the bolt goes thru is a slot, and will allow the clamp to slide back far enough to not even be on the distributor. Make sure the clamp is slid all the way towards the distributor and the "fork" part is all the way on the ridge around the base.
The factory clamp has a bend in it, make sure it is installed with the high point in the center on the top. If put on upside down it may not clamp. Also, the hole the bolt goes thru is a slot, and will allow the clamp to slide back far enough to not even be on the distributor. Make sure the clamp is slid all the way towards the distributor and the "fork" part is all the way on the ridge around the base.
Thanks, sounds very easy to do as long as I don't go dropping stuff haha.
I will look at the orientation of the old clamp when I take it out and see if maybe it is upside down or something stupid. So the curved side, where it reaches its highest point goes upwards right?
Thanks, sounds very easy to do as long as I don't go dropping stuff haha.
I will look at the orientation of the old clamp when I take it out and see if maybe it is upside down or something stupid. So the curved side, where it reaches its highest point goes upwards right?
Yep, unless it has bends or low spots on the fork part instead, then those would go down toward the dist. base. There are several designs for the clamp, you just want to make sure the bottom touches on the outer ends and not in the center where the bolt is. It also may be the wrong bolt installed and it is bottoming out before being able to tighten the clamp. A washer would fix that problem.
Yep, unless it has bends or low spots on the fork part instead, then those would go down toward the dist. base. There are several designs for the clamp, you just want to make sure the bottom touches on the outer ends and not in the center where the bolt is. It also may be the wrong bolt installed and it is bottoming out before being able to tighten the clamp. A washer would fix that problem.
This is the one I am going to buy. Is this the right kind?
Well, I got a different type of distributor wrench that would work with a 3/8 ratchet and checked the bold and re-did the timing to either 6 BTDC or 8 BTDC can't remember off the top of my head and re-tightened it with a torque wrench to 24 ft. lb like the FSM says. I am gonna drive it around a couple of days and check the timing periodically and see if I need to replace the bolt and clamp or not.
What is the best place to set the timing? The FSM says 6 BTDC but some say it is alright to go to 8 BTDC. Which should I set it at, I think I have it at 6 BTDC right now but can't remember.
There is as much as 38 degrees at Wot in the spark table with initial set at 6. If you set it to 8 it would be as much as 40 degrees. 6 degrees in my opinion is plenty.
There is as much as 38 degrees at Wot in the spark table with initial set at 6. If you set it to 8 it would be as much as 40 degrees. 6 degrees in my opinion is plenty.
Ok then, I am going to go out in a few minutes and make sure it is at 6 BTDC and drive around for a while and see how it does.
most clamps can be positioned so they are not even putting pressure on the dist. loosed the bolt used a light and make sure the clamp is resting fully on the dist. also make sure it does not slip while tighting.