C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

How do I fix the 89-96 E-Brake??

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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:32 PM
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Default How do I fix the 89-96 E-Brake??

it will not hold the car very well, some times not at all

I have tried different rotors, pads and Calipers, I have also replaced the cabling..

How do I adjust it (other then the self adjusting cable on the handle)

I would like to get the E-Brake working like it did on my 89

just not having any luck

Any suggestions?
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 10:12 AM
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Have you tried applying and releasing the E-brake multiple times? I think once the auto adjuster has been released (like to get extra slack when changing brake pads) it only ratchets one tooth per application cycle. If you aren't getting good results with this approach, take out the seat cushon and remove the cover from the brake mechanism and inspect for free moving adjuster components. For instance, if the little spring loaded adjuster pawl is sticking, it won't grab and hold a tooth on the adjuster drum like it is supposed to. You may even need to remove the seat from the seat rails and set it aside to get a good look at what is going on (four bolts, 5 minutes).
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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Yep been there and done that several times, I thought it helped, but did nothing
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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Make sure the cable ends that are attached to the rear calipers are straight and not bent at all. Then depress the brake pedal. Finally pull and release the parking brake handle many times as mentioned above. When tension is felt put the lever down and then release the brake.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 11:47 AM
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Will check but I noticed the parking brake arm on the caliper moves to the limit when the brake is applied, I found the set screw for what I believe is the parking brake but out of the 4 calipers it one moves on one.so I can buy replacements or just look at other options, I have 87 drum assemblies but swapping the knuckle and outer axle is more than I want to change.

Also thinking of upgrading calipers and getting a separate parking brake as well
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 06:08 PM
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Do you still have the old cables? I bought new cables for my car, installed them, and had the same issue with the parking brake not holding.

Turns out the new cables were longer than the originals.

I ended up re-installing the old cables and make a point of using the parking brake every time I drive the car so the cables don't seize.
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 07:18 PM
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If you have multiple rear calipers disassemble one to confirm the assembly procedure and then do the ones on the car. There's considerable action required internally of the caliper for proper parking brake function and I believe it's covered pretty well in the FSM. I've seen cable lengths mentioned before and it's usually been the front length I believe that they mention.

You describe a good bit of effort in your cable adjustments and external stuff, I'd guess it's time to look deeper. What type of pad wear have you noticed on the rear pads? The internals of the rear is quite different and generally felt to be reliable.

Does anyone offer a rear caliper complete with the actuator hardware assembled? I don't know but have never looked.

The push rod for the parking brake could be an issue and maybe just one side could effect the quality of the results. The set screw that you mention I believe is just to maintain the relationship of the actuator to the balance of the internal parts. There's springs and other hardware involved.

A new OE caliper is the hosing, piston, park lever and pin as an assembly and the set screw IS included. None of the actuator internals are included. I have a couple of the GS rears NOS.
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
If you have multiple rear calipers disassemble one to confirm the assembly procedure and then do the ones on the car. There's considerable action required internally of the caliper for proper parking brake function and I believe it's covered pretty well in the FSM. I've seen cable lengths mentioned before and it's usually been the front length I believe that they mention.

You describe a good bit of effort in your cable adjustments and external stuff, I'd guess it's time to look deeper. What type of pad wear have you noticed on the rear pads? The internals of the rear is quite different and generally felt to be reliable.

Does anyone offer a rear caliper complete with the actuator hardware assembled? I don't know but have never looked.

The push rod for the parking brake could be an issue and maybe just one side could effect the quality of the results. The set screw that you mention I believe is just to maintain the relationship of the actuator to the balance of the internal parts. There's springs and other hardware involved.

A new OE caliper is the hosing, piston, park lever and pin as an assembly and the set screw IS included. None of the actuator internals are included. I have a couple of the GS rears NOS.
I will look at the FSM again. see if it truly walks through the process.

I know it is at the Caliper so I will look there. I have seen 'semi loaded' calipers that just need the pads. Rock auto and other carry them Muskegon Brake has them PCed in Red which is what I will prefer

I don't see anything out of the ordinary with pad wear or rotor wear.

I have another option I was looking at by running an aftermarket disc and caliper along with a parking brake caliper.. so that is still an option as I have the aftermarket Calipers I can use, just need the rest. if I need to buy calipers, I may as well upgrade to the aftermarket stuff and be done, but will look at the FSM again
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
I will look at the FSM again. see if it truly walks through the process.

I know it is at the Caliper so I will look there. I have seen 'semi loaded' calipers that just need the pads. Rock auto and other carry them Muskegon Brake has them PCed in Red which is what I will prefer

I don't see anything out of the ordinary with pad wear or rotor wear.

I have another option I was looking at by running an aftermarket disc and caliper along with a parking brake caliper.. so that is still an option as I have the aftermarket Calipers I can use, just need the rest. if I need to buy calipers, I may as well upgrade to the aftermarket stuff and be done, but will look at the FSM again
I would think I'd prefer a "fix" to get correct operation of the original hardware and calipers. I don't believe all of the "after-market" swaps could be considered "upgrades". There's reasons for a "park caliper" (383vette) comes to mind but to consider the "addition of" an upgrade in most situations I'd think not warranted.

Are the wheels done?
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I would think I'd prefer a "fix" to get correct operation of the original hardware and calipers. I don't believe all of the "after-market" swaps could be considered "upgrades". There's reasons for a "park caliper" (383vette) comes to mind but to consider the "addition of" an upgrade in most situations I'd think not warranted.

Are the wheels done?
Yes it would be nice to get the OEMs working. I looking in the FSM, there is a great explanation of how to assemble them, which is what I followed when I assembled them..

There is nothing as to the adjustment of the parking brake at the caliper other then free play, but that is more for pad wear as I understand it. So unless i am missing it in the FSM, it really has no info for the caliper. my concern it buying a set of calipers to have them work the SAME as the other 2 sets I have


Wheels, were done, but are back that The powder coater.. there were a couple issues that needed to be addresses.. once I get them back I will assemble them
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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So after talking to a few Brake Vendors about what I have and what will work and what won't.. I am probably going to buy a pair of OEM Calipers PCed red and a new set of Pads and just hope for the best.
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