Adding wire to battery?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,634
Likes: 325
From: Greenville SC
Adding wire to battery?
What are you guys doing to add additional power wires?
I really hate the design on this, big molded rubber piece, with short bolt that can't be removed easily, and virtually no cable slack!
I can barely get 1 o ring connector on, I need to add two more wires.
These are for headlights, have them into 60 amp light fuse for now.
Was thinking of just taking a short heavy gauge wire w o rings on both end, one to battery, the other end w a bolt and nut that I can just clamp all three o rings together with, a dongle I guess.
I really hate the design on this, big molded rubber piece, with short bolt that can't be removed easily, and virtually no cable slack!
I can barely get 1 o ring connector on, I need to add two more wires.
These are for headlights, have them into 60 amp light fuse for now.
Was thinking of just taking a short heavy gauge wire w o rings on both end, one to battery, the other end w a bolt and nut that I can just clamp all three o rings together with, a dongle I guess.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 628
Likes: 13
From: Indiana
I have seen battery bolt replacements that have additional connection threads on the outward side. They are tight but fit. Best I could come up with when adding to my 89' many years ago. I also added an automotive fuse block with several connections and used this to feed it. When it comes to something as important as headlights you want to do it right. They are available at many locations. Or you could order these. If you order these I would go to Lowes and get a brass nut to go with them. Bi metals don't play well with each other.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wirthco-2-Pack-Battery-Bolt-For-Side-Mount-Terminal-Batteries-Long-Stud-/151027372769?pt=US_Power_Tools_Batteries_Chargers&hash=item2329eed2e1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wirthco-2-Pack-Battery-Bolt-For-Side-Mount-Terminal-Batteries-Long-Stud-/151027372769?pt=US_Power_Tools_Batteries_Chargers&hash=item2329eed2e1
Last edited by Klyde; Dec 22, 2013 at 12:46 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 768
Likes: 22
From: California
FL Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor'13
This is what I bought the other day and am currently using on my 89' Corvette.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SPT55308.html
Hope that helps and it is a good price and good quality.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SPT55308.html
Hope that helps and it is a good price and good quality.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 409
Likes: 2
From: Toronto Ontario
I bought a new pos cable it has one smaller red coming out that has connections for 3. I think to hard wire to those for reliability. Have you thought of getting a battery with both top and side posts? Maybe connect to the top of that?
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 626
Likes: 2
From: Coquitlam British Columbia
I have seen battery bolt replacements that have additional connection threads on the outward side. They are tight but fit. Best I could come up with when adding to my 89' many years ago. I also added an automotive fuse block with several connections and used this to feed it. When it comes to something as important as headlights you want to do it right. They are available at many locations. Or you could order these. If you order these I would go to Lowes and get a brass nut to go with them. Bi metals don't play well with each other.
Wirthco 2 Pack Battery Bolt for Side Mount Terminal Batteries Long Stud | eBay
Wirthco 2 Pack Battery Bolt for Side Mount Terminal Batteries Long Stud | eBay
That's what I have on my battery for my extra connections. Great add on.Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 768
Likes: 22
From: California
FL Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor'13
I'd like to see a picture of what you are talking about, for some reason I just can't picture it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,698
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
You're 4 years too late. The battery is now inside the rear bumper and I have a terminal block where the battery used to be. A battery bolt is a 3/8" bolt, the same thread and pitch as a header bolt. The header bolt will get you more length to add ring terminals.
Last edited by 383vett; Dec 22, 2013 at 09:10 PM.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,634
Likes: 325
From: Greenville SC
I did trim rubber off the positive cable some. I did see these longer terminal bolts ha is what I thought of first, but How did you get bolt out? Seems there is a metal bracket inside rubber that retains bolt.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I do not use those type of battery bolts. I do not like the ones with a threaded end. It often times becomes very constrictive on a C4 positive battery cable area.
I prefer to go to a car stereo house and get the ones where there is a bolt that goes in the end of the new terminal bolt. Much shorter than what was previously posed in a photo. I use them quite often and there is no need to cut any material at the battery terminal cable end.
I get mine through Freeman's Car Stereo here in Charlotte NC. I believe they are made by "stinger" if my memory serves me correctly.
DUB
I prefer to go to a car stereo house and get the ones where there is a bolt that goes in the end of the new terminal bolt. Much shorter than what was previously posed in a photo. I use them quite often and there is no need to cut any material at the battery terminal cable end.
I get mine through Freeman's Car Stereo here in Charlotte NC. I believe they are made by "stinger" if my memory serves me correctly.
DUB
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 628
Likes: 13
From: Indiana
DUB:
That is what Red89' posted a link to. Either way you can remove/disconnect your extra connection without losing all your settings. (radio, A/C)
95wht6spd: How did you get bolt out?
I just pushed the bolt with my thumb while turning it and it came right out.
That is what Red89' posted a link to. Either way you can remove/disconnect your extra connection without losing all your settings. (radio, A/C)
95wht6spd: How did you get bolt out?
I just pushed the bolt with my thumb while turning it and it came right out.
Last edited by Klyde; Dec 22, 2013 at 06:55 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 188
From: Wabasha Mn
I run an 8 gauge wire from the hot post on the back of my alternator to a relay to power my fuel pump circuit and an aux fuse block. You should be able to get two ring terminals on the alternator post.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
There is a 12V (always hot 12V) junction block behind the battery that the fuse link wires connect to. Its a stud with a hex nut, suggest connecting the extra leads to it = no fuss, no muss, nothing to buy or deal with when servicing the battery.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 628
Likes: 13
From: Indiana
95wht6spd: The Stinger, so you plug this into the battery, then you screw the old cable into the stinger?
No. You remove the original bolt from the original cable. You then screw the Stinger into the battery through the cable like the original stud/bolt and then there is a smaller bolt that screws into the Stinger that you can add additional cables to. Instead of a threaded stud like my suggestion it is a bolt that is drilled and threaded inside. It gives you a little more room/clearance. The downside is since it is a larger bolt with a smaller bolt screwed into it, it excepts a smaller wire then the one I suggested. Headlights draw up to 60 amps so I thought the threaded stud type was in order but you might get away with the smaller Stinger style ones.
No. You remove the original bolt from the original cable. You then screw the Stinger into the battery through the cable like the original stud/bolt and then there is a smaller bolt that screws into the Stinger that you can add additional cables to. Instead of a threaded stud like my suggestion it is a bolt that is drilled and threaded inside. It gives you a little more room/clearance. The downside is since it is a larger bolt with a smaller bolt screwed into it, it excepts a smaller wire then the one I suggested. Headlights draw up to 60 amps so I thought the threaded stud type was in order but you might get away with the smaller Stinger style ones.
Last edited by Klyde; Dec 23, 2013 at 09:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,634
Likes: 325
From: Greenville SC
Never noticed this, I take it battery removal is required?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
95wht6spd: The downside is since it is a larger bolt with a smaller bolt screwed into it, it excepts a smaller wire then the one I suggested. Headlights draw up to 60 amps so I thought the threaded stud type was in order but you might get away with the smaller Stinger style ones.
I DO LIKE and use the studded terminal bolts like what you posted....when they do not become an issue for clearance and or servicing. I do prefer sliding an eyelet terminal on a stud instead of putting the eyelet on a the bolt and installing it. But ..like a always say..."it is what it is" and sometimes I have to deal with "stuff" that i have to deal with.
From what I often find when I am repairing wiring changes from people who just crimp on whatever they find at the parts house is that if the wire is drawing a high amps...the eyelet needs to be significant..in diameter, surface area and also thickness.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
If you car has this 12 volt junction block area. JUST BE CAREFUL...if you are planning on adding wires to it that are quite significant in gauge. If you are going to add two 10 gauge wires to this junction block to feed power to you headlights...I would think again. the reason being is that the supply wire going to it from your positive battery cable is a specific gauge ( lets say 8 gauge...because I am not at work and do not have a service manual in from of me)...by adding extra wiring to this terminal junction block ...you can overload it and eh supply wire can fail due to a high amp draw being much higher than it was intended to supply power to.
When I am adding wires to a junction block I figure out if the supply wire has to be increased in gauge to be able to handle the higher amp draw that I am attempting to supply to a new component.
I know GM built in a "cushion" for safety....and they did figure that all wires coming from this junction block...if needing power at the same time...the supply wire could supply it safely....and this area would not get hot.
DUB
When I am adding wires to a junction block I figure out if the supply wire has to be increased in gauge to be able to handle the higher amp draw that I am attempting to supply to a new component.
I know GM built in a "cushion" for safety....and they did figure that all wires coming from this junction block...if needing power at the same time...the supply wire could supply it safely....and this area would not get hot.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
Personally i do not like cutting thew insulation from the Term, That is a GM pat and one of the best the have ever had.It prevents air moister and crud from getting around the connector this preventing corrision for the most part. If you get corrision on a GM term they are eith not tight or they are cut. Also make sure what ever you hook up the alt hass enough as? to carry it. Also make usre that you have a fuse or a breaker build into the system