You have done some research on replacing the radiator and there is a lot about those three screws on the shroud. Looking forward to getting my hands into it and it looks like I'll have a lot of the front of the car open and my other question is should I change the OPTi spark and water-pump.

 

One of the big items to look at is the suspension bushings and wheel bearings. Make sure they are all good. It makes a real difference in how the car handles.

If the previous owner did a urethane swap...they should be good but I'd look at that as a "maintenance item".

Remember these cars are at a minimum 17 years old...and depending on who has driven them will show different items needing attention first. My rubber bushings were shot in 5 years...but I was thrashing it at autocrosses and track events 15-25x per year. The rubber OEM bushings will crack and deteriorate and need replacement, and there are no rubber ones made anymore so urethane (or Del-a-lum) bushings are your only choice.

 

Thanks and coming with the suggestions.

 

Just wanted to thank all the positive suggestions i received in my first forum post. LEARNED to limit my on road experiences and to better convey my performance objective. Got some really helpful tips. Will post photos too.

 

I am suprised no one has touched on the basics. First and foremost, have you confirmed that the tires are less than 6 years old (preferably less than 4)? If you know nothing of the recent history of the car, as a minimum, change the oil immediately then follow up with the rest of the fluids. Antifreeze condition can tell a lot about a previous owner's maintenance savy, especially if it is nasty, despite claims that the coolant has been changed. A proper flush and fill requires removal of the knock sensors to flush the block. An often overlooked maintenance item is the debris that collects between the A/C condenser and the radiator. You will see this when you swap out the radiator. While the radiator is out, take the opportunity to flush the fins of the condenser coil from the engine side.

Preformance upgrades are great, but only after you have gone through the driveline and brakes to make sure u-joints, bearings and bushings are up to standard.

 

Thanks. Did oil change and filter, coolant appeared clean. When replacing radiator I intend to do a flush, maybe I should flush prior to new radiator. Should I replace with new knock sensors? Going to replace O2 sensors (2). Haven't got difinitive awnser on replacing Optispark and water pump when doing radiator. Would go with Delphi parts. Brakes apear and feel okay, been looking into upgrades for rotors, calipers and pads. Running Michelin Sport A/S plus. Thank you for all the responses. Pease keep coming with all the experienced suggestion. I am listing.

 

To touch on what Just Bob was saying...

Open the reservoir caps on the master cylinder and look at the brake fluid. If it is dark...get a cheap plastic turkey baster and suck as much old fluid out as possible, then soak up the rest with paper towels. Fill with clean fluid and start bleeding the brakes. The FSM (Field Service Manual) says the sequence is rear left, rear right then front left,front right.

Many do it opposite this, thinking like an old-school braking system but the ABS pump is located BEHIND the drivers seat. The lines go from the master cylinder to the ABS pump, then from there to the wheels so the furthest away will be the FRONT wheels which should be done last.

Use a good DOT4 fluid...I use Castrol Syntech brake fluid in mine. If you drive it often (and hard) like I do...even the years when I'm NOT racing it I change the brake fluid at least twice per year. The hydraulic fluid is hydroscopic, so it draws moisture INTO it like a magnet. Water in the lines makes the brakes fail under duress when you use them hard...boiling the water and creating steam/air pockets in the calipers. This same moisture in the lines also screws with your brake pistons & liners as well as the master cylinder. Keeping it clean will save you MANY $$$ down the road.

Mine stays so clean that they often ask me at tech if I knew my brakes were low...because with clean fluid it doesn't show very well through the plastic. I always have to remove the caps to show them they are indeed full.

The same can be said for the clutch hydraulics as well. Keeping clean fluid in them extends the life of the components AND keeps the system operating correctly and not screwing up the synchros in the transmission. It's a little more complicated than the brakes...

I ALWAYS recommend to every new C4 owner to invest in a set of Shop Field Service Manuals. It was THE first thing I ever bought for my car. They tell you everything you need to know about the systems, how to troubleshoot them and assembly/dis-assembly procedures for everything in and on the car. It was the best $200 I ever spent.

You can find them here...

Without the FSM...I can honestly say I don't know if I'd still have my car. Spending $50-$100/hr for labor at a shop PLUS parts gets expensive VERY quickly! Sure...it takes a little longer, but the money saved in labor helps pay for upgrades!

Not saying I do everything...I let the professionals do what THEY are good at, like engine machining and such. But wrenching on a car is something I've been doing since I was 12, and that was 38 years ago. My C4 scared the crap outta me...all the electronics inside. Once it was out of warranty...and I had an FSM in hand...there was no fear.

 

Thank you, the good advice is flowing as I thought it would, got some of the negative energy out early. The car came with both 1995 Corvette Service Manuals, Book 1 and Book 2 and I have been driving my lady crazy reading each one plus all this forum help. But that is my bed time and morning coffee reading, I have other vintage cars which require attention. I will bleed brakes just as you suggested. Again, getting first-hand help like this in invaluable plus receiving suggestions to improve ride quality/performance or just plain old PMS (that's old Army talk for preventive maintenance) that I haven't thought of is priceless. I will share all my wrench turning experiences as i progress. I also will have car professionally tuned once all the new components are installed, i.e. O2 sensors, plugs, wires, PCV, etc. Still have not been told to definitely replace Optispark and water pump while doing new aluminium radiator replacement.

 

I think the Opti will be apparent once you get it out. If the pump isn't leaking...I'm not sure I would screw with it.

On the other hand, while you have the opportunity to look at it and see if it needs replacement...I would! Once it goes, 90% of the time it takes the Opti out with it. So...check it to see if it's in good shape. While it's out, find a local rebuilder to replace the bearings and seals. Put it back in a press on.

Leave the Opti alone until it starts to act up...

Just my opinion...

 

I peaked under the front end and the suspension system appears to be original vintage. I have done some research and it looks like I should purchase a complete bushing kit. Shocks? My driving will mostly be street driving on curvy mountain roads and simi-level interstate highway, not racing (yet). There is a track nearby! Lots of shock options, suspension options, brake options. I do drive safety but it is a corvette and deserves to be taken to its limits, within responsible reason. Not going for groceries.

 

Got it. Thanks man.

 

I am not a fan of fixing things that aren't broken. Maybe it is just because you don't hear back from folks that *don't* have problems, but there have been a lot of posts in the forums from people that replace an Opti only to have the replacement fail a short while later. It is often reported that the build quality of the replacement units leaves a lot to be desired, with even some Delphi units being questionable.

One mod that some have applied to the water pump is to drill and tap the weep hole in the bottom of the pump and install a hose barb and rubber hose to route any leaks away from dripping on the Opti. Also, it is always wise to avoid pressure washing the front of the engine or even spraying it with a garden hose when cleaning up under the hood.

 

My daddy always said "don't fix it if it ain't broke", gonna go with your advice. The weep hole fix sounds logical. The drive her with the new plugs, stock wire replacement, O2 sensors and PCV replacements, the new radiator, thermostat, cap and overflow tank plus brake system bleed.

Then tackle some suspension upgrades, new tires and the Corsa exhaust connected to the stock manifold this coming spring. Sound sensible?

 

Sorry, I meant I have done a lot of research on the radiator replacement.