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I bought a set of 1.6 roller rockers they were supposed to be self aligning they are not I can get some new ARP rocker arm studs and Guide plates or find a set of self aligning so the question is will I need new rocker studs for all guid plates or are some thin enough that thread depth is not an issue
Thread dept is not an issue with guide plates and most any screw in studs are long enough on the base threads to accomodate them. You will be fine re-using the factory studs if you want to.
You could buy the ARP studs if you wanted to upgrade... ARP PN 134-7101 is what you would need.
What you will need 100% to run guide plates is new pushrods. The pushrods must be heat treated for use with guide plates or the harder guide plates will eat stock pushrods alive.
I see in your profile that you have a 93 LT1.
To make your non self algining roller rockers work you would need:
Thread dept is not an issue with guide plates and most any screw in studs are long enough on the base threads to accomodate them. You will be fine re-using the factory studs if you want to.
You could buy the ARP studs if you wanted to upgrade... ARP PN 134-7101 is what you would need.
What you will need 100% to run guide plates is new pushrods. The pushrods must be heat treated for use with guide plates or the harder guide plates will eat stock pushrods alive.
I see in your profile that you have a 93 LT1.
To make your non self algining roller rockers work you would need:
As Will states above but get the new studs. I don't know if is different but on my L98 with both the stock heads and the AFR's I have now I broke a stud. On Lingenfelters and AFR's site they say to change the stock studs to longer ones when going to roller rockers. Even the new AFR's I bought needed to be changed.
was it possibly a push rod issue (bent?) and not necessarily the rocker itself?
Just curious. If there is a brand out there that IS NOT what it claims to be, I'd like to know (others as well) so we know what we're getting into if they are ever in front of me.
As Will states above but get the new studs. I don't know if is different but on my L98 with both the stock heads and the AFR's I have now I broke a stud. On Lingenfelters and AFR's site they say to change the stock studs to longer ones when going to roller rockers. Even the new AFR's I bought needed to be changed.
Something might not be right if your breaking studs, well I've read the stock studs are pretty crappy but the AFR should be a bit better. Did you check for correct pushrod lenght? Many thing effect pushrod lenght and you shouldn't just run stock lenght when you change stuff. Either way you might want to upgrade to 7/16 if you haven't or at least run a stud girlde if your not already. Just make sure it's the right one for the heads, jomar makes a alum head vette one.
Something might not be right if your breaking studs, well I've read the stock studs are pretty crappy but the AFR should be a bit better. Did you check for correct pushrod lenght? Many thing effect pushrod lenght and you shouldn't just run stock lenght when you change stuff. Either way you might want to upgrade to 7/16 if you haven't or at least run a stud girlde if your not already. Just make sure it's the right one for the heads, jomar makes a alum head vette one.
Yes I did all that. With the stock heads I actually had two break. The first one I thought was a fluke. The second one I started researching because it was a different location than the first one. I'm using the comp cam 3/8 Pro Magnum rockers. Thats when I found it on Lingenfelters site that with rollers you needed the different studs. After I got those I didn't have anymore problems with the stock heads. When I got the AFR heads I didn't think I would have a problem with the studs that came on the heads but did. I had installed the proper length push rods and checked the side load and everthing looked good, but broke one on those heads too. I looked under the installation instructions on AFR's web site and it says "If you are using Comp. Cams 3/8 Pro Magnum rocker arms you will need to use a longer stud (AFR #6409) because of the thicker trunion on this rocker arm". I replaced the studs on the AFR's with the ones I bought for my stock heads and so far no other problem.
I have pro Comp Chrome molly stamped roller rockers the roller doesn't have any thing tp prevent the rocker from moving I believe they should have a washer on either side of the roller to stop the rocker from moving off the valve stem so I will need the Guide plates and new push rods I did buy the push rod length checker tool would like to use it
I am getting a smooth idle at start up but after the car warms up I get a rough idle and when driving seems weak but if I give it some gas runs well ??? I need to readjust the valves I think and injectors were a possible issue before I replaced the distributer and wires and plugs same issue but now worse I have used Lukas injector cleaner and well think I may just go for the LT4 injectors for 200.00 I saw on ebay