Steering rack removal
02-09-2014, 12:00 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Member Since: May 2001
Location: Plant City Fl
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Steering rack removal
Can anyone post me the instructions for removing the steering rack on my 88. The write up in the tech tips section no longer has the pictures attached. A write up with pics would be much easier to follow. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
02-11-2014, 07:28 PM
#2
Race Director
It would be in your best interests to purchase a Factory Service Manual.
Often times when following the instruction on removal of a part...the manual will require you to remove something else...which will cause you to go to another section of the Manual and follow those instructions...which could cause someone to spot NUMEROUS pages and torque specs.....which is why I mentioned you buy a manual.
Not only that...the manual can aid you in the future.
DUB
Often times when following the instruction on removal of a part...the manual will require you to remove something else...which will cause you to go to another section of the Manual and follow those instructions...which could cause someone to spot NUMEROUS pages and torque specs.....which is why I mentioned you buy a manual.
Not only that...the manual can aid you in the future.
DUB
02-11-2014, 07:44 PM
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2003
Location: Summerland B.C. Canada
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You won't find much in the service manual, but here it is from my 86 manual.
http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Power...d%20Pinion.pdf
FWIW, I don't recall removing the cooling fan, when I swapped mine.
http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Power...d%20Pinion.pdf
FWIW, I don't recall removing the cooling fan, when I swapped mine.
02-12-2014, 12:01 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
changed my rack 3 times.
loosen the lug nuts on the left wheel.
jack it up and put it on jackstands. remove the left tire and wheel.
remove the sway bar
use a ball joint press, and remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. do not ever use a pickle fork on a corvette.....ever!
remove the return hose, and drain the fluid, fluid will go all over so be prepared.
remove the hoses/lines.
slide the cover up over the u joints on the steering shaft and remove the locking bolt from the coupling.
remove the bolts that hold the rack to the frame. remove it from the attach points. helps to put the u clip in a plastic bag with the bolts.
pull the shaft off the splined stub on the rack.
rotate the rack slightly to aid in removing it from the car and slide it out the left side.
remove the tie rod ends from the rack, counting the turns.
write the number of turns for each tie rod end on tape and tape it on each shaft.
Inspect the tie rod ends, or buy new ones.
point the rack down and away from you if you get the desire to turn the shaft.
(you may decide to change the power steering hoses at this time).
buy synthetic power steering fluid.
reverse the process, use care that the steering wheel does not turn, and line up the splines carefully so that the bolt will go back in the steering stub on the rack.
first time, it will take you about 4 hours.
second time will take you about 2 hours.
third time will be about an hour and a half.
fill the reservoir. turn the wheel lock to lock with the wheels in the air about 3 times before starting the engine.
Do not turn the wheel with the engine running without having the tie rod ends bolted on the steering knuckles. (mandatory)
with the engine running, and the car in the air, turn it lock to lock slowly to work out the air bubbles. do not let the reservoir run dry.
You can put the sway bar on last after everything else is bolted up and tight.
do not use all your might to tighten things like hoses, clamps and attach bolts.
proper torque is not critical, just recommended. If you have a feel for torque, then by all means, just tighten everything up.
(hint hint) torque the mount bolts and the shaft.
every time you take the sway bar off, you will find a faster way to install it the next time.
to put the sway bar back on, drop the car onto it's tires, and move the car up and down slightly to reinstall the ends. one will be a piece of cake, and the other will be a bear if the driveway isn't level. (hint hint)
It is easy and no fun. the challenge is in the sway bar. Unless wheels straight ahead results in the steering wheel 90 degrees off.
Then go get your car aligned.
loosen the lug nuts on the left wheel.
jack it up and put it on jackstands. remove the left tire and wheel.
remove the sway bar
use a ball joint press, and remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. do not ever use a pickle fork on a corvette.....ever!
remove the return hose, and drain the fluid, fluid will go all over so be prepared.
remove the hoses/lines.
slide the cover up over the u joints on the steering shaft and remove the locking bolt from the coupling.
remove the bolts that hold the rack to the frame. remove it from the attach points. helps to put the u clip in a plastic bag with the bolts.
pull the shaft off the splined stub on the rack.
rotate the rack slightly to aid in removing it from the car and slide it out the left side.
remove the tie rod ends from the rack, counting the turns.
write the number of turns for each tie rod end on tape and tape it on each shaft.
Inspect the tie rod ends, or buy new ones.
point the rack down and away from you if you get the desire to turn the shaft.
(you may decide to change the power steering hoses at this time).
buy synthetic power steering fluid.
reverse the process, use care that the steering wheel does not turn, and line up the splines carefully so that the bolt will go back in the steering stub on the rack.
first time, it will take you about 4 hours.
second time will take you about 2 hours.
third time will be about an hour and a half.
fill the reservoir. turn the wheel lock to lock with the wheels in the air about 3 times before starting the engine.
Do not turn the wheel with the engine running without having the tie rod ends bolted on the steering knuckles. (mandatory)
with the engine running, and the car in the air, turn it lock to lock slowly to work out the air bubbles. do not let the reservoir run dry.
You can put the sway bar on last after everything else is bolted up and tight.
do not use all your might to tighten things like hoses, clamps and attach bolts.
proper torque is not critical, just recommended. If you have a feel for torque, then by all means, just tighten everything up.
(hint hint) torque the mount bolts and the shaft.
every time you take the sway bar off, you will find a faster way to install it the next time.
to put the sway bar back on, drop the car onto it's tires, and move the car up and down slightly to reinstall the ends. one will be a piece of cake, and the other will be a bear if the driveway isn't level. (hint hint)
It is easy and no fun. the challenge is in the sway bar. Unless wheels straight ahead results in the steering wheel 90 degrees off.
Then go get your car aligned.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 02-12-2014 at 09:01 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by coupeguy2001:
01-10-2021, 06:33 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Cannot separate Power steering rack from shaft
changed my rack 3 times.
loosen the lug nuts on the left wheel.
jack it up and put it on jackstands. remove the left tire and wheel.
remove the sway bar
use a ball joint press, and remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. do not ever use a pickle fork on a corvette.....ever!
remove the return hose, and drain the fluid, fluid will go all over so be prepared.
remove the hoses/lines.
slide the cover up over the u joints on the steering shaft and remove the locking bolt from the coupling.
remove the bolts that hold the rack to the frame. remove it from the attach points. helps to put the u clip in a plastic bag with the bolts.
pull the shaft off the splined stub on the rack.
rotate the rack slightly to aid in removing it from the car and slide it out the left side.
remove the tie rod ends from the rack, counting the turns.
write the number of turns for each tie rod end on tape and tape it on each shaft.
Inspect the tie rod ends, or buy new ones.
point the rack down and away from you if you get the desire to turn the shaft.
(you may decide to change the power steering hoses at this time).
buy synthetic power steering fluid.
reverse the process, use care that the steering wheel does not turn, and line up the splines carefully so that the bolt will go back in the steering stub on the rack.
first time, it will take you about 4 hours.
second time will take you about 2 hours.
third time will be about an hour and a half.
fill the reservoir. turn the wheel lock to lock with the wheels in the air about 3 times before starting the engine.
Do not turn the wheel with the engine running without having the tie rod ends bolted on the steering knuckles. (mandatory)
with the engine running, and the car in the air, turn it lock to lock slowly to work out the air bubbles. do not let the reservoir run dry.
You can put the sway bar on last after everything else is bolted up and tight.
do not use all your might to tighten things like hoses, clamps and attach bolts.
proper torque is not critical, just recommended. If you have a feel for torque, then by all means, just tighten everything up.
(hint hint) torque the mount bolts and the shaft.
every time you take the sway bar off, you will find a faster way to install it the next time.
to put the sway bar back on, drop the car onto it's tires, and move the car up and down slightly to reinstall the ends. one will be a piece of cake, and the other will be a bear if the driveway isn't level. (hint hint)
It is easy and no fun. the challenge is in the sway bar. Unless wheels straight ahead results in the steering wheel 90 degrees off.
Then go get your car aligned.
loosen the lug nuts on the left wheel.
jack it up and put it on jackstands. remove the left tire and wheel.
remove the sway bar
use a ball joint press, and remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. do not ever use a pickle fork on a corvette.....ever!
remove the return hose, and drain the fluid, fluid will go all over so be prepared.
remove the hoses/lines.
slide the cover up over the u joints on the steering shaft and remove the locking bolt from the coupling.
remove the bolts that hold the rack to the frame. remove it from the attach points. helps to put the u clip in a plastic bag with the bolts.
pull the shaft off the splined stub on the rack.
rotate the rack slightly to aid in removing it from the car and slide it out the left side.
remove the tie rod ends from the rack, counting the turns.
write the number of turns for each tie rod end on tape and tape it on each shaft.
Inspect the tie rod ends, or buy new ones.
point the rack down and away from you if you get the desire to turn the shaft.
(you may decide to change the power steering hoses at this time).
buy synthetic power steering fluid.
reverse the process, use care that the steering wheel does not turn, and line up the splines carefully so that the bolt will go back in the steering stub on the rack.
first time, it will take you about 4 hours.
second time will take you about 2 hours.
third time will be about an hour and a half.
fill the reservoir. turn the wheel lock to lock with the wheels in the air about 3 times before starting the engine.
Do not turn the wheel with the engine running without having the tie rod ends bolted on the steering knuckles. (mandatory)
with the engine running, and the car in the air, turn it lock to lock slowly to work out the air bubbles. do not let the reservoir run dry.
You can put the sway bar on last after everything else is bolted up and tight.
do not use all your might to tighten things like hoses, clamps and attach bolts.
proper torque is not critical, just recommended. If you have a feel for torque, then by all means, just tighten everything up.
(hint hint) torque the mount bolts and the shaft.
every time you take the sway bar off, you will find a faster way to install it the next time.
to put the sway bar back on, drop the car onto it's tires, and move the car up and down slightly to reinstall the ends. one will be a piece of cake, and the other will be a bear if the driveway isn't level. (hint hint)
It is easy and no fun. the challenge is in the sway bar. Unless wheels straight ahead results in the steering wheel 90 degrees off.
Then go get your car aligned.
I have all bolts and lines required to remove the steering rack on my 93 C4
At the end you state pull the shaft off the splined nub of the rack.
I must be missing something here, do I need to remove anything from the shaft because there is only about 1/4" of movement.
Not enough to separate the two.
I am pretty good at this stuff but I am at a standstill trying to figure the last step out.
Appreciate any help
Thanks
02-01-2021, 04:22 PM
#8
I know it is an old thread but I am stuck & need help.
I have all bolts and lines required to remove the steering rack on my 93 C4
At the end you state pull the shaft off the splined nub of the rack.
I must be missing something here, do I need to remove anything from the shaft because there is only about 1/4" of movement.
Not enough to separate the two.
I am pretty good at this stuff but I am at a standstill trying to figure the last step out.
Appreciate any help
Thanks
I have all bolts and lines required to remove the steering rack on my 93 C4
At the end you state pull the shaft off the splined nub of the rack.
I must be missing something here, do I need to remove anything from the shaft because there is only about 1/4" of movement.
Not enough to separate the two.
I am pretty good at this stuff but I am at a standstill trying to figure the last step out.
Appreciate any help
Thanks
02-01-2021, 06:09 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Yes I got it out awhile ago, in fact it is coming back via Turn One tomorrow.
So I have the pleasure of doing this in reverse.
Been working on other items while I am in there plus projects on my other ride as well.
Winter fun!
So I have the pleasure of doing this in reverse.
Been working on other items while I am in there plus projects on my other ride as well.
Winter fun!
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Artfrombama (02-05-2021)