What does the fuse marked R.D.O. Bat do? I found that is is blown, and when I replaced it, it immediately blew. So I have a short somewhere, don't know where to start looking. Any tips would be appreciated. I have ordered the service manual, but it's probably going to be 4 days before they get here. Thanks

 

R.D.O.... Try RDO... meaning, Radio? Do you have an aftermarket stereo?

I will check my service manuals tonight.

 

Should be the constant battery feed to the radio head and receiver box and also the PKE module if it serves the same circuits as my 93. Note that it is fuse #40 on the 93 so there may be differences. Good luck

 

Yes it appears to be the radio head, radio receiver AND the PKE module. And therein lies the problem, I bet. My PKE unit does not even light up the indicator on the driver info center when you turn on the key. I was hoping a bad fuse, but when the new one popped upon insertion, I am led to believe that the module is bad. Not an easy fix I understand.thanks for the replies.

 

Hello Hitch. Guess your other thread was getting to messy.

If the fuse (5 amp) is blowing, you have to figure out what is shorted.

Fuse #40 feeds the radio head and radio receiver and PKE receiver. You can't get to the PKE receiver easily without removing the dash pad but the radio head and receiver you can get to pretty easily.

The voltage feed for the radio head is mainly for memory. The voltage feed for the radio receiver is basically the main voltage supply for the receiver. The voltage for the PKE is to keep the receiver on for passive entry and memory.

I would first approach this by process of elimination by disconnecting one box at a time. The radio receiver behind the passenger in the compartment is the easiest to get to so disconnect that connector first. Then try a fuse and see if it blows.

If the fuse still blows the radio head needs to be disconnected. Center console door, shifter plate and radio bezel have to be removed. Then getting to the radio is a piece of cake. Disconnect the radio head and try a fuse again.

The PKE would be third on my personal list of being the problem. I hope you don’t need to go that far for the PKE is a fair amount of work to get to just to unplug.

See how you do and let us know.

 

The one thing I did not add, was that the radio was apparently replaced by a previous owner. Its an Alpine unit that I am not very fond of. Anyhow, as a result, there is no receiver in the rear storage area. So I guess I will look at the Alpine unit first. Maybe as well, I will make sure that there is nothing amiss in that rear storage area. Thanks for the input.

 

WOW, that changes some things. It's a possibility the Alpine requires a larger fuse. But that is just information and "not a go do" yet. Find out what the proper fuse size is for the radio. But I would still disconnect the radio and see if fuse 40 stops blowing first.

If the fuse stops blowing when the radio is disconnected, check the PKE light to see if it lights up for 2 seconds when the key is first turned to ON from the OFF position.

 

Please excuse me I have made a big mistake.

I have miss read the initial post and wrote my posts up for fuse 40. The information is correct but for the wrong fuse. I will re-write new information for the proper fuse and edit this thread.

Edit
** OK - Here is why I have confusion. Fuse 40 is the RDO fuse and what I wrote it up for.

Fuse 42 is the power door locks fuse. It is also the voltage feed for the PKE light and should be labeled power lock.

Please confirm we are talking about fuse 42 (power lock) which I think we are.

 

Fuse 42 - Power Lock.

This feeds the slide switches for the electronic door locks. They should be open in the normally relaxed or center position which is off. Make sure each side feels the same and they slide normal and return to center.

The fuse also feeds the PKE which is the voltage for the door lock motors thru one of two relays one each dedicated for each door. It is also used for the hatch release thru a relay also.

The last item this voltage feeds is the lamp for the PKE light. It basically get grounded thru the PKE circuits for self test and programming. If there was a short in the PKE, the light would just stay on nothing more. So I would discount this as being a possible cause.

I would first zero in on a possible bad slide door switch. It could take that voltage right to ground if defective in some strange way.

Secondly I would pull the fuse #40 for the PKE. This will disable the relays in the PKE receiver and basically take the door lock motors out of the equation. That should just leave you with the door lock switches as an only possibility.

Other than what is described, there is always the possibility of a shorted or pinched wire to ground or a man made installed problem.

 

Sorry for the confusion. The fuse in question is 40, the RDO BAT fuse. This all started because I get no PKE light ever, and could not match the new key fob to the car. As for the Alpine unit, it works fine. So apparently he pulled power to it from somewhere other than fuse 40. But he may have gotten the feed from 40 in a position where it is shorting out to something, or perhaps when he removed the receiver he did the same thing there. So that is where I will start. And if I find nothing then what's left is the PKE. Thanks to all that have responded, and I will keep you all abreast of the results.