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1985 Corvette Overheating

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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
Do you know what the fuel psi is while your driving it? Kinda sounds like you might be going lean while driving, check for leaks on the intake, check all your vac lines. Underdrive pulleys? Did you delete the ac and reverse the water pump?
Fuel pressure should be 60 psi. My AFR gauge reports around 14.7:1 in closed loop most of the time while driving, every once in a while it goes a little lean. I suspected that my throttle body gasket may be worn out so I ordered a new one, I have a bit of an idle surge, so it may be that or it could be the MAF sensor. Someone said that when you descreen the sensor you may get an idle surge. I'm going to use the one off the '86 that's sitting on the lot for a day and see if that fixes it. I don't think I have a leak anywhere on the intake because all the gaskets were brand new and I snugged the bolts down pretty good.

I don't have under drive pullies, and I still have my A/C and the belt routing is correct.

Waiting on a tune from my tuner. Should have a new one maybe Monday or Tuesday hopefully. I am getting a lot of spark knock though. He is supposed to modify the timing table to something more suitable.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:37 PM
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How do the plugs look?
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
How do the plugs look?
I don't know. They're a pain in the butt to get out. I only fired up the car maybe 2 days ago and probably only put 30-40 miles on it.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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What kind of gas do you burn? If it's E10, your AFR might actually be lean.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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Intake gaskets installed wrong?
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
What kind of gas do you burn? If it's E10, your AFR might actually be lean.
I use E10, yes. But the AFR was 14.7:1 before the head change and I didn't have any overheating issues.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Intake gaskets installed wrong?
The intake gaskets were Fel-Pro 1205 with the letter engraved side facing up, also the blue outlines on the ports were facing up.
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 03:10 AM
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99% of the time when problem arise like this and things we ok before it is something that was done wrong when put back together. it was running cool or at the right temps before it was taken apart. So there would be no reason for the rad to go bad. If you keep getting air out of the system this is your problem. You should not be creating air. You may get a little out when you first start after what you did but after that you should not create any. You have a closed system so after one hot cold and running secition all the air that was in from the repairs should have worked themselves out thru the cap and into the recovery tank. Find the source of the air and you will solve the problem
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DanielRicany
I use E10, yes. But the AFR was 14.7:1 before the head change and I didn't have any overheating issues.
If you are using E10, your AFR should read 14.1. It may not be part of your overheating but it should be looked at.
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by hooked073
99% of the time when problem arise like this and things we ok before it is something that was done wrong when put back together. it was running cool or at the right temps before it was taken apart. So there would be no reason for the rad to go bad. If you keep getting air out of the system this is your problem. You should not be creating air. You may get a little out when you first start after what you did but after that you should not create any. You have a closed system so after one hot cold and running secition all the air that was in from the repairs should have worked themselves out thru the cap and into the recovery tank. Find the source of the air and you will solve the problem
I hate to suggest this, but a head gasket leak will cause overheating and introduce air into the water.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
I hate to suggest this, but a head gasket leak will cause overheating and introduce air into the water.
Well it's not leaking coolant or burning it. And the cooling system pressure test checked out okay, and so did a compression test.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
I hate to suggest this, but a head gasket leak will cause overheating and introduce air into the water.
It also held vacuum with the evacuator tool.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 02:00 AM
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Wrong head gasket?
Restricted flow?
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Wrong head gasket?
Restricted flow?
This is the gasket that I used. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...5117/overview/
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 02:45 PM
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I don't think I have a leak anywhere on the intake because all the gaskets were brand new and I snugged the bolts down pretty good


Did you torque them, and in sequence.
Joe
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by just joe 2
I don't think I have a leak anywhere on the intake because all the gaskets were brand new and I snugged the bolts down pretty good


Did you torque them, and in sequence.
Joe
Yes. I added some gasket sealer around the cooling passages on the intake gaskets on both side of the gasket. Previously that was leaking, not anymore.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielRicany

Like I mentioned earlier, I set the fan temp to come on a little before 180*F, and it seemed to keep it a little cooler, do you guys think that if I put a 160* or 180* thermostat in it will keep it cool?

Thanks!
I have a 170* stat in my 355 and lowered fan temps in program. I have seen my temp get past 200* about 5 times over the last 7 years.
It usually is in the 185* area and gets into the 190's when I am hard on the peddle. Stays in the upper 170's when highway cruising.

So yes, I think a 180* stat would help.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
If you are using E10, your AFR should read 14.1. It may not be part of your overheating but it should be looked at.
This is not the problem. A WB set to read gasoline will read 14.7 AFR even when the actual AFR is 14.1. The WB does not know that the E10 fuel at stoch is 14.1 so it is reporting 14.7 even though it is 14.1.

Do you have the stock air dam in place under the car? It sounds to me like the fans go off and the air does not get forced through the radiator like a missing air dam.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
This is not the problem. A WB set to read gasoline will read 14.7 AFR even when the actual AFR is 14.1. The WB does not know that the E10 fuel at stoch is 14.1 so it is reporting 14.7 even though it is 14.1.

Do you have the stock air dam in place under the car? It sounds to me like the fans go off and the air does not get forced through the radiator like a missing air dam.
I think so. Can you post a picture so I can see what it looks like?
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
This is not the problem. A WB set to read gasoline will read 14.7 AFR even when the actual AFR is 14.1. The WB does not know that the E10 fuel at stoch is 14.1 so it is reporting 14.7 even though it is 14.1.
That's only true if your wideband has a custom display setting. At least that's how it is with my Innovate wideband. I had to create a table so I could correlate E10 readings to regular gas. I would compare BLMs to AFR and I'll bet he's running lean. Not lean enough to cause overheating, but still lean.
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