need gear advice
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Some people go with new drive and driven gears, but I went with a speedometer calibrator. Easy install, and I don't have to get new drive and driven gears any time that I change the rear gear size or total tire diameter size. https://www.zip-corvette.com/Product...L1-SR&CTitle=&
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 31
From: Reno Nevada
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
'93 and older yes it becomes an issue. Depending on what ratio you had and the year it's a what's available. I've always thought a mechanical correction the better approach but parts are certainly more difficult to come by now.
What year, axle ratio and tire size presently?
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 31
From: Reno Nevada
Without knowing the year "for sure" it's difficult to mention an approach! If it's a '94+ 4L60E you don't need to "buy" any hard parts. It can be accomplished in the PCM.
'93 and older yes it becomes an issue. Depending on what ratio you had and the year it's a what's available. I've always thought a mechanical correction the better approach but parts are certainly more difficult to come by now.
What year, axle ratio and tire size presently?
'93 and older yes it becomes an issue. Depending on what ratio you had and the year it's a what's available. I've always thought a mechanical correction the better approach but parts are certainly more difficult to come by now.
What year, axle ratio and tire size presently?
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Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 31
From: Reno Nevada
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 12,597
Likes: 237
From: Bartlett Illinois
Here are all the Drive/Driven GM Part Numbers:
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/vett...Gearshtm.shtml
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/vett...Gearshtm.shtml
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
Here are all the Drive/Driven GM Part Numbers:
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/vett...Gearshtm.shtml
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/vett...Gearshtm.shtml
I've done many but need the information. I may have the parts. The OP can use the email function in my profile if he'd like.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
Sorry to hijack!
I am also looking for info to get the proper gear for my 1992 6 speed with 4.11 (9" rear with 315 x 17)
I called GM Speedometer World and was told to call back tomorrow. If I can get any information from them I will update.
Thanks,
Steve
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
I used them once. I filled out the order form and they called me and told me that the I had selected the wrong one for my transmission. They told me I needed whatever the part number was. I said okay, I figured they knew more than I did about that stuff. A week later it came and it was a drive and driven gear set for a cable driven speedometer. I sent it back to them, and bought a speedometer calibrator, which I've been very happy with. That's just my story, though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
I used them once. I filled out the order form and they called me and told me that the I had selected the wrong one for my transmission. They told me I needed whatever the part number was. I said okay, I figured they knew more than I did about that stuff. A week later it came and it was a drive and driven gear set for a cable driven speedometer. I sent it back to them, and bought a speedometer calibrator, which I've been very happy with. That's just my story, though.
Was it a project to install the calibrator?
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...on%20Gears.htm
Those would be for a 315/35R17 - the 9" is irrelevant. You could actually play with the 43 tooth driven but without knowing the actually "loaded" rolling radius it's difficult to calculate. The 4.11 might actually close that 1%. Those #'s should get you close and it could easily be altered with just the purchase of a different driven. They're not particularly expensive but harder to come by these days.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 26, 2014 at 09:20 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Nope. Took about an hour, you will need a lift unless you like crawling under the car.
The calibrator has 4 wires, one goes to power with ignition on, one goes to ground, one goes to one of the wires on the vehicle speed sensor, and the other wire goes to the other wire on the vehicle speed sensor.
Just call them up and ask them what switch combination is correct for your set up. They'll ask for tire size and gear ratio and maybe something else, and they'll help you enter the right switch combination on the calibrator unit. There's a cover on the back that you removed and access the switch panel. There's around 10 switches, 0 and 1, and you follow the selection number they give you on the chart that's included with the calibrator and enter those switch combinations and you're good to go.
I used a GPS speedometer with mine to get an accurate speedometer reading. The GPS speedometer is build into my radar detector.
The calibrator has 4 wires, one goes to power with ignition on, one goes to ground, one goes to one of the wires on the vehicle speed sensor, and the other wire goes to the other wire on the vehicle speed sensor.
Just call them up and ask them what switch combination is correct for your set up. They'll ask for tire size and gear ratio and maybe something else, and they'll help you enter the right switch combination on the calibrator unit. There's a cover on the back that you removed and access the switch panel. There's around 10 switches, 0 and 1, and you follow the selection number they give you on the chart that's included with the calibrator and enter those switch combinations and you're good to go.
I used a GPS speedometer with mine to get an accurate speedometer reading. The GPS speedometer is build into my radar detector.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
To do your M6 mechanically you need to change both the drive and driven. Buy it here as a package. You need 13 and 43 respectively and you can use your current VSS:
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...on%20Gears.htm
Those would be for a 315/35R17 - the 9" is irrelevant. You could actually play with the 43 tooth driven but without knowing the actually "loaded" rolling radius it's difficult to calculate. The 4.11 might actually close that 1%. Those #'s should get you close and it could easily be altered with just the purchase of a different driven. They're not particularly expensive but harder to come by these days.
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...on%20Gears.htm
Those would be for a 315/35R17 - the 9" is irrelevant. You could actually play with the 43 tooth driven but without knowing the actually "loaded" rolling radius it's difficult to calculate. The 4.11 might actually close that 1%. Those #'s should get you close and it could easily be altered with just the purchase of a different driven. They're not particularly expensive but harder to come by these days.
Regards,
Steve
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
Nope. Took about an hour, you will need a lift unless you like crawling under the car.
The calibrator has 4 wires, one goes to power with ignition on, one goes to ground, one goes to one of the wires on the vehicle speed sensor, and the other wire goes to the other wire on the vehicle speed sensor.
Just call them up and ask them what switch combination is correct for your set up. They'll ask for tire size and gear ratio and maybe something else, and they'll help you enter the right switch combination on the calibrator unit. There's a cover on the back that you removed and access the switch panel. There's around 10 switches, 0 and 1, and you follow the selection number they give you on the chart that's included with the calibrator and enter those switch combinations and you're good to go.
I used a GPS speedometer with mine to get an accurate speedometer reading. The GPS speedometer is build into my radar detector.
The calibrator has 4 wires, one goes to power with ignition on, one goes to ground, one goes to one of the wires on the vehicle speed sensor, and the other wire goes to the other wire on the vehicle speed sensor.
Just call them up and ask them what switch combination is correct for your set up. They'll ask for tire size and gear ratio and maybe something else, and they'll help you enter the right switch combination on the calibrator unit. There's a cover on the back that you removed and access the switch panel. There's around 10 switches, 0 and 1, and you follow the selection number they give you on the chart that's included with the calibrator and enter those switch combinations and you're good to go.
I used a GPS speedometer with mine to get an accurate speedometer reading. The GPS speedometer is build into my radar detector.
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
I'm very "partial" to mechanical correction DRA's can be a damned nuisance but some seem to do well with them. There are different DRA's and some are much better than others but I understand maybe that the branding that SLP had all the problems with have maybe corrected their production. The FOMOCO guys used to be troubled by the same brand I believe.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 26, 2014 at 10:16 PM.