Still overheating...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Well I replaced the Temperature Sending Unit to see if the gauge was misleading me. No change. Also I retarded the timing a little as someone I know suggested, no change. The numbers just climb so quickly almost like it doesn't have enough time to cool down. Also I should add that it doesn't drop when I pull over, it keeps climbing. I have to shut it off, wait a few seconds and start it up again. Then the temperature drops. It got to 240 and I shut it off.
I'm out of ideas. I think maybe it's not getting enough air flow through the radiator possibly? If it's not that then maybe it isn't circulating fast enough inside the motor.
I'm out of ideas. I think maybe it's not getting enough air flow through the radiator possibly? If it's not that then maybe it isn't circulating fast enough inside the motor.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 325
Likes: 7
From: Princeton Jct. New Jersey
This is from AFRs' install instructions:
"AFR thoroughly cleaned your cylinder heads prior to shipment. Your heads were washed in water soluble chemical agitation tank and blown out with high pressure air 3 to 4 times before they were boxed. However during some machining operations chips are packed and wedged into the water jacketing and occasionally come loose in transit. Keep in mind one chip the size of a dime breaks into hundreds of tiny chips and makes the situation appear much worse than it is in reality. It is not usually if you blow high pressure air into the water jacketing to see additional foreign debris, or chips finding their way out. AFR recommends that you thoroughly blow out your heads prior to installation."
Could you possibly have a partial obstruction? Did you use the recommended gaskets?
"AFR thoroughly cleaned your cylinder heads prior to shipment. Your heads were washed in water soluble chemical agitation tank and blown out with high pressure air 3 to 4 times before they were boxed. However during some machining operations chips are packed and wedged into the water jacketing and occasionally come loose in transit. Keep in mind one chip the size of a dime breaks into hundreds of tiny chips and makes the situation appear much worse than it is in reality. It is not usually if you blow high pressure air into the water jacketing to see additional foreign debris, or chips finding their way out. AFR recommends that you thoroughly blow out your heads prior to installation."
Could you possibly have a partial obstruction? Did you use the recommended gaskets?
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 6
From: Scottsdale AZ
Well I replaced the Temperature Sending Unit to see if the gauge was misleading me. No change. Also I retarded the timing a little as someone I know suggested, no change. The numbers just climb so quickly almost like it doesn't have enough time to cool down. Also I should add that it doesn't drop when I pull over, it keeps climbing. I have to shut it off, wait a few seconds and start it up again. Then the temperature drops. It got to 240 and I shut it off.
I'm out of ideas. I think maybe it's not getting enough air flow through the radiator possibly? If it's not that then maybe it isn't circulating fast enough inside the motor.
I'm out of ideas. I think maybe it's not getting enough air flow through the radiator possibly? If it's not that then maybe it isn't circulating fast enough inside the motor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,394
Likes: 393
From: Lakeville MI
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
This is from AFRs' install instructions:
"AFR thoroughly cleaned your cylinder heads prior to shipment. Your heads were washed in water soluble chemical agitation tank and blown out with high pressure air 3 to 4 times before they were boxed. However during some machining operations chips are packed and wedged into the water jacketing and occasionally come loose in transit. Keep in mind one chip the size of a dime breaks into hundreds of tiny chips and makes the situation appear much worse than it is in reality. It is not usually if you blow high pressure air into the water jacketing to see additional foreign debris, or chips finding their way out. AFR recommends that you thoroughly blow out your heads prior to installation."
Could you possibly have a partial obstruction? Did you use the recommended gaskets?
"AFR thoroughly cleaned your cylinder heads prior to shipment. Your heads were washed in water soluble chemical agitation tank and blown out with high pressure air 3 to 4 times before they were boxed. However during some machining operations chips are packed and wedged into the water jacketing and occasionally come loose in transit. Keep in mind one chip the size of a dime breaks into hundreds of tiny chips and makes the situation appear much worse than it is in reality. It is not usually if you blow high pressure air into the water jacketing to see additional foreign debris, or chips finding their way out. AFR recommends that you thoroughly blow out your heads prior to installation."
Could you possibly have a partial obstruction? Did you use the recommended gaskets?
This may sound far fetched, however were you able to check the new head gasket you used when you installed the new heads. By checking I mean verifying the coolest holes are matche to both the block and the heads. It may sound unnecssary but if the holes in the gasket don't align with both head and block it would cause a problem like you described. Also, it is possible a gasket hole is missing. I had that happen to me once, it drove me crazy (no pun intended).
Bob at TPIS said that you have to raise the RPMs and then add coolant, then cap it off and release the throttle to properly fill the system. So I'm going to try that too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
you really need to see if you have combustion gasses going into the cooleant. get a pressure tester hook it up start the car watch the gauge if it starts to climb pretty fast and up past 5 lbs or so with out the engine getting hot you most likely have a problem. I sometimes will do this test on a hot engine that way if you have something expannding causeing you problems it will pick it up.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
you really need to see if you have combustion gasses going into the cooleant. get a pressure tester hook it up start the car watch the gauge if it starts to climb pretty fast and up past 5 lbs or so with out the engine getting hot you most likely have a problem. I sometimes will do this test on a hot engine that way if you have something expannding causeing you problems it will pick it up.
By the time it hit 150*F, I had 2 PSI on the gauge.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
http://ww2.stant.com/repository/docu...1164_20091.pdf Read interior leakage B
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 284
Here's what I'd do to figure out if you have air pockets, gut a thermostat & fill with coolant, rev it up while filling & watch the flow inside the radiator. It should look like a waterfall. Keep adding until it's full & put the cap on & drive it. That should get all the air out of it for test driving it.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Got some interesting information. I hotwired the auxiliary fan, and I started it up. First time around it went all the way up to 230*F, and came down to 195*F. Second cycle it went to 224*F and came down. Third time around it didn't go passed 200*F, it just stayed between 193*F - 196*F the whole time for about 15 minutes, until I shut it off. This was only at idle. And it never did this until I wired the auxiliary fan up, so maybe this will get me somewhere?
Gonna take it out in a few minutes and see how it does.
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
Gonna take it out in a few minutes and see how it does.
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
If this does anything it means you have something blocking air coming across the rad while you are driving it. At 30 plus mph more air is going to be pushed thru the rad then a fan could ever do