I dont know what he told you just going by what was gleaned from reading his thread. He wasnt out to build a world beater but still a stock LT1 with headers would run the same #. This seems to be big Q of the thread

Here....just cracks 500hp and a whopping 400lb of torque. Bet its about undriveabale on the street. Dyno type motors are lousy on the street

With accessories proper header size full exhaust etc rwhp # may not be that happy, not a cheap build either.

Probably fun to drive in a light car with very deep gears. Once or twice a month

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/..._engine_build/

 

Link where he said he was very please w/13's Mr *****'?

I know I'd be pissed if I spent the money and built a motor that ran 13's.

 

Good article, 519 HP from a 302 @7400 rpm that gets there way faster than it's longer stroke opponent. Pretty impressive, and gives some insight into other manufacturers like Ferrari do it also.

Not that I'm against long stroke as an easy cheap way to build power. This article just proves what I've said all along in this thread. 500 hp from a 383 would be way easier, but it would also be slower to that number. The 383 in equal cars would win the 60', but get passed shortly there after.

 

Please feel free to provide said link, because so far it is completely hearsay that you support. Judge Judy is just laughing at this claim.

Remember, anyone can build a 406 to run in the 12's, but building a shorter stroke version that beats it is really fun.

Here's a 327 that beat AA Top fuel.

http://purehellracing.com/about.html

 

Am I supporting or claiming something here? If I am, please quote where I did that so that I can correct it. I don't believe that I made any claims. YOU made a claim. Here it is...
I asked you to back up your claim. Now you're asking me to back up a claim that I never made?



Exactly! Which is why it is irresponsible to advise the OP to "go ahead" and waste his money destroking his LT1.

 

^That whole post is a bunch of old-man/lore horse ****. How is one 500 hp engine going to "get passed shortly after" by another 500 hp engine...same cars?

 

Ricer fly by with the hazards on , of course

many yrs ago I had a 67 Camaro 4 spd
11:1 327 Isky 280 cam, torker holley etc etc

Used to race a buddy with a bone stock 2bbl 326 catalina (heavy!)PG trans

guess what if we left evenly could be a dead heat no matter how high I revved it

Most times he would slowly inch ahead used to pizz me off lol

327 4.00 bore x 3.25 stroke

326 3.781 bore 3.750 stroke

Torque talks on the street....he woulda cleaned my at the track too Im afraid even with that 2bbl and a puny bore.

I like the old short stroke engines too but lets be realistic
Noones doing clutch dumps at 6 or 7k from the stoplight.

 

Exactly!

As a data point regarding "cubes vs. revs", here is another 302/327/350 block, stroked the other direction to 408, same heads as the 302 above, way less cam, less intake, 40 more hp (turning it's own water pump), 150 more tq...
http://www.airflowresearch.com/artic...e157/A-P1.html


And a smaller 383 stroker using less cam, less head, less intake, and same hp as the 302 above...
http://www.airflowresearch.com/artic...e218/A-P1.html

 

[/QUOTE] Noones doing clutch dumps at 6 or 7k from the stoplight.[/QUOTE]
You havent met some of my friends lol. So here's the deal, I have a spare lt1 laying around. aluminum heads yada yada from a 97 z28. These are the adapters for the 2 piece crank to fit into the 1 piece block... http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-...45554/10002/-1 Anyone ever USE one actually? Seems a bit janky if you ask me but I might try it out. I could pick up a 327 large journal crank pretty cheap as well as some decent flat top pistons. I DONT need a 500 hp engine. that's stupid. Ive been driving cars cammed around 290-300 duration for years now and am pretty well aquainted with their nature. Maybe some of you like loping off the line with your strokers but I'll stick with a 3000 stall and 1000 more rpm. I dont mind driving on the street like that, I have most of my life. I have a real deal duntov 30/30 cam I really wish I could use but cause of the opti **** I'
ll have to look elsewhere for the same profile. ( I REALLY like that cam, just gotta have a high static comp ratio to run it effectively as it's a bleeder cam) Anyhow I think it's worth a shot.

 

This story would almost be believable if the 326 was ever offered in a Catalina, but since it wasn't I must assume it is a complete fabrication?
I launched my Vega at 4000 rpm with the stall converter, and it would jump to 6500 7000 right away until it caught traction.

My 69 Z I would side stepper at 6500 with a very similar response.

By the time I got to my 2000 SS I kept hitting the rev limiter at 6200, and it took me a while too get used to shifting before that. Of course this was a long stroke LS1 which is fast, but don't spin very high.

 

PLEASE...post the results of this combo when you're done. I for one, can't wait to see what kind of power this puts down. LT1 heads and intake, a "30/30" cam, and a 327 crank. Good luck!



You must have cut some killer 60' times using that technique.

 

Coulda been a tempest; It was a barge.

 

Personally I would build the biggest engine you can afford. And that includes the biggest stroke to where you still have decent geometry. It's all about power per cubic inch. You will make more power more reliably with a bigger engine, and turn less rpm doing it. With a big stroke engine, you don't have to rev it to the moon to make big power. Your engine and valve train will last much longer than a engine turning 7000+ rpm. And a big stroke engine gives you big torque. This is especially important with a fairly heavy street car, if your car weighs 2000lbs different story. Torque gets the car moving. A small engine will never make any real torque compared to a longer stroke engine. I have had 6 different engines in my car and many different configurations of those. And everytime I go bigger, the car goes faster. I have a 464ci SBC with a 4.250 stroke , and on pump gas has to be around 675hp+ and close to 650ft/lbs torque N/A, and love the instant power everywhere. You can't replace the torque gained with a big stroke engine. More torque will make the car 60ft faster, and there's no way a smaller engine with less torque and even the same hp will run it down.

Back to a LT1 build, I would go with a 3.875 stroke and build a 396. With a 6.0" rod it will have decent geometry, won't wear pistons, and make more hp and tq than a 327. If you wanted to give up some long term durability, you could put a 4.00" stroke and make a 409. I have done several, and they really make big torque in a small block package. A 383 is probably the best bang for the buck out there.

 

To start, I don't know how well a ring package is going to last pulling street duty with a compression height that short (if he built the above combo).

In reality, at any RPM level being talked about here stroke is a moot point...so I wouldn't take any away. With that said; do I agree that RPM reigns supreme? Absolutely! Just my .02

 

Noones doing clutch dumps at 6 or 7k from the stoplight.[/QUOTE]
You havent met some of my friends lol. So here's the deal, I have a spare lt1 laying around. aluminum heads yada yada from a 97 z28. These are the adapters for the 2 piece crank to fit into the 1 piece block... http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-...45554/10002/-1 Anyone ever USE one actually? Seems a bit janky if you ask me but I might try it out. I could pick up a 327 large journal crank pretty cheap as well as some decent flat top pistons. I DONT need a 500 hp engine. that's stupid. Ive been driving cars cammed around 290-300 duration for years now and am pretty well aquainted with their nature. Maybe some of you like loping off the line with your strokers but I'll stick with a 3000 stall and 1000 more rpm. I dont mind driving on the street like that, I have most of my life. I have a real deal duntov 30/30 cam I really wish I could use but cause of the opti **** I'
ll have to look elsewhere for the same profile. ( I REALLY like that cam, just gotta have a high static comp ratio to run it effectively as it's a bleeder cam) Anyhow I think it's worth a shot.[/QUOTE]

If this is a spare engine... why not just buy a 383 kit and call it a day?
It'll walk the dog ALL OVER that 327 build flat out. And it's still dirt cheap and if you wanted you could still build it to rev to the moon.

Hell I'm sure you can find an old 327 pretty cheap for that matter, and just rob the goodies off the LT1 and convert the intake over (and use a TPI computer for the HEI).

This just seems like such a waste.

 

I have a soft spot for high reving engines, big bore short stroke, but this comment is way over the top. If both engines make the same power the car that will be faster is the car that has the broader power band and the correct gearing for the combination. Generally speaking, the engine with the broader power band will be the lower reving engine, which means it should be faster and easier to drive on the street. One other item to consider is friction, and efficiency. When you run a higher reving engine you have to gear it accordingly to get the performance out of the car. The steeper gears required to run a high reving engine in a car cost you power to the ground. It is not uncommon to see a car with 450 RWHP with 3.42 gears drop down to 430 RWHP when you switch to 4.30 gears.

The general comment for this thread should be this! Pick the displacement of engine you want and then build it with the biggest bore you can. The big bore shorter stroke of equal displacement has some advantages over smaller bore and longer stroke (example would be 377 vs 383, or 327 vs 334, or 302 vs 305) but if you are not displacement limited build the engine as big as you can with the correct parts for the best power and street manners.

 

PLease tell me you genuinely are interested in the results of this combo and not being smart assed..... oO

 

also, how far can I safely bore the lt1 block with filling the block as well?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by captcolt

also, how far can I safely bore the lt1 block with filling the block as well?

I did not do any block filling, but when boring mine, I was told .060 was the most to go, and even at that, they don't like to do it. I went .040 due to the pistons I was using. FWIW going from a .030 to a .040 only gains 2 cubic in. on a 3.75 stroke. The results would be less with a shorter stroke.

Back on post 98 I ask you what rpm range you plan to be operating in. I never seen an answer. Another question I have is what transmission will you be running. Good luck with your build.

 

I dont understand this.

Lets play a game shall we. You have 2 engines, short stroke 327cid making 500 hp@7500rpm and long stroke 383cid making 500hp@6300rpm. ok?

The short stroke 327 will rev faster to 6000rpm when it does not have load to it.

Now you place these engines in to equal cars, the 383 will be faster under any situation. why?

When your engine have to actually do some work and not jut free rev, you need torq to gain rpm. 383 will have more torq and more importantly it has plenty of torq thru all it's rpm range, so it will gain rpms faster