don hall

During the installation of my Corsa system, I noticed the boot on the
auto-tranny shift cable was destroyed. I know the boot is to prevent
dust from entering the cable sleeve, and causing abrasion.

There was no evidence of wear on the cable, and I lubricated the cable with oil. There is no shift problem.

Anyone replace this cable ?

Cliff Harris

Yep. I took this picture of the bracket, but it shows the torn boot:



Be warned, though:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ally-ugly.html

WW7

If you find you do need a shift cable, this one will work, a few people I know have used it on their Corvettes without any problems.......WW

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Shifter-Cable-PIONEER-CA-1162-fits-84-95-Chevrolet-Corvette-/261471477016?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3ce0ea1d18#ht_1270wt_986

don hall

Thanks, Cliff and WW7..... great responses.

And, Cliff, your photos and analysis are professional grade...the link provided is a great resource....

The RockAutoParts menu offered two cables for the '92:
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...,parttype,8528
Notice the length difference: ATP 30" v Pioneer 30.25".

I ordered the ATP Y747, and based on the response by 1968RT in the link..... Y747 was a perfect fit.

I bought the replacement cable to have it available, if needed.
My cable is smooth, and shows no signs of abraded wear from grit due to the missing boot. May just give it to the next owner.

(Cliff, I have asked the moderator to post your link as a 'sticky'..... don't know what will happen.)

Pradaomygada

I replaced this cable when it busted at the tranny end a few months ago. It literally, broke a few weeks after I put a new stereo in (which could have been a 2 birds with one stone install). Let me say this was the biggest PITA ever. You have to tear the whole interior apart...driver side seat, along with all the carpeting on the driver side counsel. I ended up drilling a whole in the plastic that covers the air bag box to get to the screws that hold in the rubber grommet. I got lazy and didn't want to remove the middle dash. I think I even left one of screws because I couldn't get to it. Unfortunately, I do not have pictures.

oilyfishhead

It started several month aho when I change the differential pumpkin. Some how during the removal or replacement of the C-beam I managed to damage the shifter cable. I got creative with some aluminum scraps I had laying around and got it to work. I wish I had a picture. It was quite creative,


A couple of months later I had to change the transmission and torque converter. That job was as uneventful as changing a transmission in a '94 'vette can be. Once I got everything put back together I figured out that I had no Park. I adjusted the shifter as much as I could but it still wouldn't go into park. I figured my fancy cable modification was the problem so I ordered a new cable.


You know this is going to be trouble when part of the procedure in the factory service manual says remove the seats. It took me the better part of a day to get all that crap out of the way. I never did figure out how to get that plastic structure out of there. Time for a new plan.


Plan B; Ignore the book. After looking at the problem for quite some time I decided that most of that plastic structure was not needed. That's when I decided to get out the die grinder. I have a right angle, pnuematic, die grinder. It's small enough to get it into where it needed to be. I put cut-off disks on it. I just started cutting plastic until I could reach the screws for the flange that guides the cable through the floor. Two of the screws were pretty easy to get to. The 3rd one required me to use a 7mm open end wrench to get it out, an eighth of a turn at a time. That screw never went back in.





I am not a professional mecanic. I am a 58 year old computer geek who has been working on my own cars since I was 16. I have never had a job that was this much of a PITA.


Now we come to the reason I decided to write this. I was very happy when I, finally, got it all back together. Guess what? Still no park.


More facts that may or may not be relevant. The transmission that I removed was a "V" casting. The one that I installed is a "K" casting.


Fast forward to last week when I discovered this thread and seabright's post about ATB vs Pioneer. I must have installed a 30" cable the 1st time. Last week I ordered the Pioneer 30.25" cable and installed it today. I now have park and because of my previous modifications it took me about an hour to install the new cable.

tuned

The 700r has a cable that runs from underneath and is routed to the shifter underneath the dash and is routed to move rearward back to the shifter and the cable hooks up on the front of the shifter.this poses a problem since the dash is in the way.the dash and interior all have to come out.I also pulled the dash/plastic frame out to get my big fat hands in there.I didn't take dash all the way out.I loosened all the attacent points and just rolled it to gain more access.all in all I think I had 15hrs into it
It was my first time taking my car apart that much with the interior!!

tuned

The view at the shifter attachment point

don hall

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...djustment.html

C4vettrn

I have the opposite problem, mine won't go into Low unless you pull back on it hard and maybe it will or maybe it won't. I didn't have this issue until I had my tranny worked on by RPM. It's not a big deal because I can't use low for anything other than crawling up a tree maybe Is this adjusted at the shifter assembly or the trans? I don't think it has anything to do with the TV cable and I don't understand why removing the trans would have caused this?

sumrtoy

If i understand the problem and question correctly you really just needed to replace the boot/bellows. And... it's not made anymore. For others that may hit this sticky i'll share my quick story. My '95 had the same issue. After reading about all the hassles of replacing the cable I elected to buy the shifter cable with boot for about $35. As there was nothing wrong with my cable on my 40k mile car i elected to remove the boot from the new part and put it on the old shifter cable. In all it took 20 min including jacking the car. I need 1 pair of pliers, one pair of side cutters, two medium plastic ties. Yes i'm wasting the cable.. for now... the way i see it, the boot/bellows was like $15 back i the day. The cable + boot was about $35. So it cost me $20 to save about 2-3 hours of work. I dunno. Sounded like a deal to me.

2UHONEY

Where did you buy the cable for $35? is it brand new?

sumrtoy

Hi,

Yes, Brand new. Corvette Central. And sorry, it was 39.95. I believe their item number is 534257. There may be cheaper ones, but i looked at this one's boot very carefully and it looked exactly like the one on the car. That proved to be true when it arrived.

INSTRUCTIONS:
use side cutters to cut the bands off of the old one.
Remove the boot form the new cable... it just slides off.
Remove the cotter pin and washer from the transmission connection.
Slide or cut off the old boot.
Clean the sides of the old cable where the boot would attach.
Slid on the new boot pushing the boot over the lip on the shifter side and put it up to the smaller end. You'll feel a little bumb.
Take two small to medium plastic ties and put them around each end, feeling for the grove on the shifter side and the bump on the xmission side.
Tighten very tightly
Cut off wire tie ends
Move shifter through 1 - R. Look at the boot after each shift.






New cable + Boot



New cable + boot





Tools + Plastic Ties





Old Boot





New Boot : Note Plastic Wire Tire


Hope this helps.

sumrtoy

Hi, I had a better reply with pictures even... guess i hit the wrong button to submit. Anyway. It's new. But its $39.95.. i have a rounding issue. Got it from Corvette Central item # 534257.

I got that one because it looked exactly like the original and it was.

Hope that helps.

2UHONEY

thanks a lot I have 1 coming, Corvette Central search is inefficient, if you punch the PN 534257 nothing comes up, but if u search by part name ( transmission cable) it comes right up with the same PN.....go figure.

C4vettrn

Mine is actually worse then that: D I wouldn't worry to much if the cable is good. I just wrapped over mine "loosely" with some heat shield material and tide the ends with thin wire. I have full length headers and 3" exhaust so a new piece of rubber would have lasted maybe 1,000 miles if that.

Gibbles

I just replaced my shifter cable while routing some transmission gauges...

I had the same problem ATP cable, and no park.
Everything else worked fine, but it would not allow park to engage fully.

However if I got under the car and pushed the selector forward it would click in.

Primarly I decided to change the cable since it seemed like I had some cable stretch, and I had to hold my shifter down to stay in 1st...

After some thinking I ended up modifying the cable adjuster with a file, now it lets me move the adjuster out a tad further, allowing park to engage.

I also took the selector bracket inside of the transmission apart and filed the rough spots off and sanded them smooth, idea being that it would allow the spring roller end to roll a bit smoother into the slots.

Seemed to work pretty good so far, and my gear selections are spot on now.

What I'm not sure about is how far the parking prowl actually engages.

occupa

For some time now I have not had the low gear selection and now suddenly I have low gear and no park.

Is there and adjustment procedure for this cable?

The bottom at the transmission has some adjustment but I do not know which way to go.

More travel or less travel.

Is there an adjustment at the console side??

Gibbles

Pick up a manual.

It's under the car the bracket where the cable mounts slides in the bracket when you losen the nut.

occupa

I have the FSM for the 1984 and a Chilton and not described in either.

However, I did find a potential cause. The cable pulled out of the crimped connection on the bracket that attaches to the two bolt on the transmission pans.

I was able to push it back together and think I will epoxy to help it stay

And while nosing around I found the 4th gear, TCC connection was not connected.... Both parts are there just not connected....