'84 Vette problem continues
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 248
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Could the timing be out? Did it feel exactly the same before you replaced the dizzy cap/rotor?
I don't know about 84's, but with 85's there's a weird/specific way of setting the timing (removing the brown wire first...). So what's the story with adjusting 84's? Anyone know?
It doesn't sound like a vacuum problem. When I had a vacuum leak, it just felt like 70% or so of my power/torque was gone. Engine still felt and went smooth.
I'm thinking spark.. or fuel.
Have you checked your spark-plug tips? How were your old ones?
I don't know about 84's, but with 85's there's a weird/specific way of setting the timing (removing the brown wire first...). So what's the story with adjusting 84's? Anyone know?
It doesn't sound like a vacuum problem. When I had a vacuum leak, it just felt like 70% or so of my power/torque was gone. Engine still felt and went smooth.
I'm thinking spark.. or fuel.
Have you checked your spark-plug tips? How were your old ones?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The pretty version:
The ugly version:
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
That tells you the fuel pressure from the pump but not the fuel pressure at the throttle bodies. You need to tap into the fuel line between the throttle bodies to see what is really happening. The fuel pressure regulator is in the driver's side throttle body and the crossover line feeds regulated fuel pressure to the passenger side.
Fuel pressure will be the same, any where in the fuel system, between the fuel pump, and the FPR (driver's side TB). If you have a clogged filter, pressure may drop after the filter as demand rises...hence, my recommendation to check after the filter, "T'ing" into the system where there is a soft line.
While it makes checking FP quicker and easier to install a test port, it is a no better or more accurate way to check it. For a one-time (diagnostic) test, the "T", is the fastest, easiest way to get it done.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jun 13, 2014 at 03:48 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
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Last edited by Cliff Harris; Jun 16, 2014 at 03:07 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
You've never had a CFI car, have you?
Again, fuel pressure will be the same, any where in the fuel system, between the fuel pump, and the FPR (driver's side TB). That includes what "the injectors are seeing".
Look at this schematic;
^Everything from the "rear" FPR is essentially the "fuel rail". Pressure is the same throughout. Doesn't matter where you put your gauge.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jun 16, 2014 at 02:33 PM.
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 248
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I meant in general.
I also wrote "rail" before I wrote "carb".
My advice was/is correct.
What you done there is like what I'm about to do now..
"How can an FPR regulate pressure if it's before the injectors??" oh brother
I'm getting real tired of this sh*t. Lol at the thumbs-up you gave me. Yeh thanks man. You were really helpful and nice. Keep up the good work
My cuz who lived in L.A. for a few years recently told me about the sneaky, cowardly, bitchy, passive-agressive girls there who'd start arguments and sh*t then be all like "hey, why are you so mad, gurrrl?". Seems like some of the men around those parts (and here on this forum) are like that too.
Oh yeah, nearly forgot..
That makes everything okay.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Sorry. My bad. I mis read your post and you were/are right. You're also right that in some cases, you can test "after" the regulator. Not in a CFI, but in some cases.
I apologize and I will enjoy a slice of 'humble pie".
I apologize and I will enjoy a slice of 'humble pie".
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 248
Likes: 1
