C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

rod bearing?

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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 01:02 AM
  #21  
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Landshark is right. I too know that sound, it sounds like money, and I hate it.

The good news is that you can get a reman'd crank to a .010 oversize bearing for a little over a couple of hundred dollars. A good set of oversize Clevite bearings can be cheaper than cut to fit plug wires. Get some new fasteners, and I would also plan on replacing that rod, which means of course, head removal, so a head gasket and intake gaskets will be required. If you can do this stuff yourself, it's not really all that expensive.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 09:42 AM
  #22  
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Not sure what your budget is but I got a whole Scat 383 rotating assembly (crank, rods, forged pistons, rod/main bearings, and rings) for less than $800. Gasket kit was one hundred-ish. The rest was a labor of love. Ok, not all love, there was some swearing involved also.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 03:09 AM
  #23  
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With all the Bozo hackers that have tinkered with that engine, I wouldn't even try to fix it!! Look around for a good long block 350. I'll bet there are several good engine shops in your area that will build you an engine that's put together right, and can even build it to your specs for only a little more money.
Even an unmolested JY engine would be better than what you've got!!

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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 10:52 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
With all the Bozo hackers that have tinkered with that engine, I wouldn't even try to fix it!! Look around for a good long block 350. I'll bet there are several good engine shops in your area that will build you an engine that's put together right, and can even build it to your specs for only a little more money.
Even an unmolested JY engine would be better than what you've got!!

He upgraded the top-end. Too much to "give away". TFS heads IIRC.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 03:54 PM
  #25  
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Is it a six speed car, the transmission will knock at idle but stop with the clutch depressed. If not, go with the ZZ383, a deal at 5k
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 02:43 PM
  #26  
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Thanks for all the help and tips. Much appreciated as always.
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 11:04 PM
  #27  
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Its a 4+3. Pushing in the clutch doesnt change it.

Yes trick flow heads, new factory crank, ported base and SLP runners...long tube hedders...true roller timing... Summit cam. There's about $2000 in parts. I think the first mechanic must have screwed up the bearings when he installed the crank. He hooked up an anti freeze line wrong and it was dumping coolant into the cylinders. He thought the block was cracked. Second mechanic was hired to pull the motor and to repair the block. He instead discovered that that line was hooked up wrong and put it all back together. He readjusted all the valves as well. After $1600 it returned home with a massive oil leak, a clutch that won't engage right, and now apparently bad bearings. It would start though :0( he had it two years so I wasn't about to bother bringing it back to him. Its all been a mess. All the money I had saved for paint and top has all gone to mechanical repairs and its still crippled in the garage. God willing some day it'll cone together.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 03:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Race Prepared
Is it a six speed car, the transmission will knock at idle
Not like that, it won't.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 04:45 PM
  #29  
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Definitely a rod issue. Park it ASAP if you haven't already.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 05:01 PM
  #30  
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that sound you hear is money knocking to get out of your wallet. if the crank is bad, I have a 350 crank with the thrust clearance getting to limits. it worked great when I replaced it with a new one. Hell, you can have the old one if you need it. I was saving it to buy a vette with engine problems, but sounds like you need a bit of relief.

Last edited by ghoastrider1; Jun 15, 2014 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 05:29 PM
  #31  
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WOW!! that is a very solid knock, I would definitely lean towards a main bearing / crankshaft. Bottom line, great your shop ready because you need to pull that engine. I had 2 bent rods that sounded solid... but not as solid as yours.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 06:06 PM
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Engines are really not that hard to put together; have you ever though of tearing it down, doing what needs to be done and then putting it back together? I'm sure there is a gear head down in your area that could help you out on the details. Heck if I was closer I would come build it for you.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 07:55 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Deakins
Engines are really not that hard to put together; have you ever though of tearing it down, doing what needs to be done and then putting it back together? ........
That sounds like the best plan. You can save and reuse your expensive top end parts.

I agree that engines are really not hard to put together. When I was involved in a local stock car racing, I built one nearly every week. (We had a claiming price on motors at that time, and if you did well you could count on it being taken.) Just take your time, do some research about putting it together and follow the manuals including torque specs. It is actually kind of fun and it will give you a great feeling when it starts up and runs great.

Good luck.
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